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I have an old steel frame of unknown origin, it has a "Fangio" sticker on the seat tube, and a serial number on the headtube. Its got very tight clearances on the rear, even with a 700c, but the forks have a very long rake, and hence large clearances. It has no brazeons at all, but has long forward facing dropouts. Paintwork looks original, so I think it has original forks. In other words, I have no idea what purpose the frame was built for.
On to my problem....
The dropouts are spaced 120mm, so I had no problem sliding in a rear track wheel for a 42mm chainline.
I purchased a Stronglight Track 2000 crankset, which claims to give a 42mm chainline with a 107 bb.
Trouble is, when I hold the crankset against the bb shell, in line with the rear sprocket, the spider does not clear the chainstay. It seems like I would require more like a 110 bb.
So it appears that my options are:
- Dent the frame so that the spider clears the chainstay?
- Get a 110bb, and somehow move the rear sprocket outwards?
- Get a new frame? The frame isn't mechanically anything special, but it does have very pretty lugs!
Any thoughts?
- Dent the frame so that the spider clears the chainstay?
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So I've been upgrading an old Dawes Fleur to take nice new dual pivot brakes, instead of the crappy Weinmann ones it has now.
The only problem is that modern calipers dont let you switch the anchor bolt and adjusting barrel to allow the cable to enter the caliper from below to allow optimal cable routing on a step through frame.
My options are:
Use the new caliper on the front (where it matters most) and the old one on the back. I don't really want to do this as matching calipers would look much nicer!
Modify the new rear caliper using some kind of wire stop, as on Sheldon Brown.
Run the brake cables into the top of the brake, and hope that the number of turns in the cable housing isn't too much of a problem. I've seen this done on a retail specialized, so maybe it'll be ok?
Buy new calipers. (They must be long reach) :(
Help :S
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undibs