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http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/362/dscf00791024x768.jpg
http://velospace.org/node/36236New bike day = good day! Looking forward to getting it on the velodrome.
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A track bike under 6.8 can't be raced seriously, and sacrificing aerodynamic efficiency to save a few grams is always a fail (except on hill climb bikes), but especially on a track bike.
It's not a trackbike for the track, hence the MTB padals, gearing and krylion tyres ;) Besides, he's changing it again.
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http://i55.tinypic.com/208usrq.jpg
Halo wheels? Definite "meh"
I know the rider. The wheels are Halo rims (which are quite light infact, 430g), superlight low flange mack hubs, revo spokes. Overall bike is about 6.5 kg. I think its pretty complete.
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mdcc has it perfectly covered but read this http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2007/05/trail-fork-rake-and-little-bit-of.html
Of course it still entirley depends what you want from the bike and your sizing
I wouldnt suggest the geometry you have posted for any kind of street or road ridingThank you. Interesting guy this Dave Moulton. The history bits of his articles are very interesting. I'll definitely read more from him.
To make the HT slacker I have to lower the BB. As far as I know the upper limit for bb height (drop) is around 290mm (44mm). But how low would you recon I could go and still avoid pedalstrikes on the street?
Depends on crankarm lenght of course. Being a longlegged guy I should obt for very long arms but I dont want to spin out. Im thinking 170mm as a good compromise? -
It's going to depend on your weight distribution and bar/stem set up. The near-universal consensus of 73°-74° and 40-43mm fork offset on modern road and timetrial bikes, with track bikes deviating only in having a shorter offset to give more trail, indicates that a happy medium has been settled upon after many years of experimentation.
Alright then. Any literature you think I should look into?
And also, should I obt for even shorter rake?
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Both assumptions are at the outer edges of the normal envelope for road race frames. To make it enjoyable to ride, you should probably aim for >50mm.
Theres plenty of people riding on bikes with a 75 deg headtube and a standard road bike fork with 43 mm rake. I even do that myself. To a comparison that gives a trail of about 45mm. Seems fine to me. Quite lively yes but no where near unrideble. Do you really think less than 50mm is that bad?
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... seems to have left you with a perilously small amount of trail....
Just measured the current trail. Its 46.3mm given a 30 mm rake fork. Assuming the old fork would have had a rake of around 45mm and HT angle of 75 deg, the trail would have been 42.9 mm. Seems reasonable to me. What do you recon?
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For some reason I presumed that you'd be using it for serious training where ever gram matters.
Best of luck with it, there's no better reason to start a project other than just fun.
Don't forget to post your progress in here, after seeing brucy's (http://www.lfgss.com/picture.php?albumid=1427&pictureid=8899) I really like that design.Maybe it was the fanzy CAD drawring that fooled you :) And thx! I'll post more when something happens.
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would it not be easier,simpler and lighter to use the main triangle but fabricate new stays that effect the geometry?
(Not meaning to be albran, just thinking out loud. It does look awesome though)
I'll be heavy, no doubt. And agreed, it would be easier to make new stays. But that would mean i would have to know fillet brazing (which I dont) and have to get hold of seatstay tubes and brazing rods which is a little expensive.
I already have all the tools and materials I need (exept a front fork) for this project, all of which I got for free thanks to a friend. After all, this project is mostly for fun.
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I'm guessing you've tilted the frame so far to get the BB drop to a reasonable 45mm, but combining that with enough fork offset to provide a safe clearance between tyre and down tube seems to have left you with a perilously small amount of trail. Read very thoroughly on the subject of steering geometry before committing to metal. Also look at Wiggins' madison bike - it's basically a small bike with the bars and saddle cantilevered a long way off the frame.
Good guess, BB drob is 48mm.
The original frame was already made for a long leg and short torso kind of guy like me. Top tube is therefor only 58 cm long. To accomodate a short wheelbase (for a road bike) the original frame had a 75 deg HT angle which is as you know around the usual track bike HT angle.77 deg HT is steep i'll admit but this is not a track bike. This is a fun bike. RiGi used similar HT angles on some of his madman creations. I know this might make it unbeareble to ride for a long time but I think it'll be a lot of fun for short amount of time.
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Upcoming project of mine. Im a longlegged guy (saddle height is around 90cm from center bb) and im tired of not being able to find a tight track frame in my size, so when I saw one of the previous project posted here I got really inspired to the same but with a much bigger frame. Front triangle is from a 68 CTT roadframe i've got a hold of. Should be perfect.
Took some messurements, altered the geometri and made a 3D model. Wheelbase should be 943 mm with a HT of 77 deg.
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^^ Haj ownes the Tornado.. Which is proper crazy..
I bought mine off Haj. ;) He seems to have a way of getting a hold of all these rather weird Tornado frames.
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Understatement of the day. I think you've probably got your saddle too high, so getting fitted properly would reduce the comedy element of it. If you're going racing, you might find putting 20mm of spacers under the elbow rests and losing the same from the spacer stack under the 'stem' makes the balance between positions on the Angel bars better.
I know. Its small, but the length of the frame and bar is actually alright I think. Its not ridden in though. I only had a roll up and down the road on dry day here in the winter, so thats why it might look ekstra odd setup wise. Thanks anyway, I'll give your tips a go.
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BTW Here is a pic of the rather unusual handlebar. Like the integralter road bar its a alter stem based bar made for internal cablerouting. Actually its also made for regular roadversion brakeleveres which you would use at the time.
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/847/img72031.jpg
Edit: Bit weird also. Its made for 1" threadless which was the revolution back then in 2000.
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This my on going project. Its a mid 90's TT bike. The frame is quite speciel I think since its a one of a kind build by a more or less famous framebuilder here in Denmark. At the moment its almost purely fitted with italien bits a pieces. Mostly Campy, still looking for drivetrain. What would fit? C-record or newer?
The frame is build from Columbus Megatube (Yes its steel and about 2.4 kg for the frame alone) which I've never heard of before. I found a note on columbus' site.
"In 1994, to celebrate 110 years of Bianchi, Columbus strengthened the friendship that born between the fathers of the two companies, making MEGATUBE® solely for the Treviglio company. Megatube has become a must and is now one of the strong points of the Milanese company, with more than 25 different shapes."
I haven't found any Bianchi builds in steel with this tubeset. Seems like it came so late the need for it had gone.
Parts amoung others: Cinelli Angel bars, Fausto Coppi LE saddle, Record Titanium seatpost, Shamal clinchers and Deda TRE open tubulars. SS at the moment with homemade spacers here and there so its rideble even though I must admit, its a wee bit small.
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I like it.
I recon paint it black, Tuborg decals, bmx cranks and pedals, coaster brake and some wide bars to control the crate. Great park/beach party bike! Perfect for Denmark!Thanks!
So far spec list goes like this:
Halo Aerorage wheels in black - rear is flip flop - ill try and remove the decals somehow. With a black marker maybe?
Two Shimano Freewheels in 18-16T
Wide Chrome bars
Black fenders with silver arms.
Old Maxy cranks (campy pista/strada lookalike) 110 BCD with a 38 or 40T chainring.
Im gonna keep the rear brake as it is and just polish it.
Saddle might be a Regal og a Rolls.
Frame is gonna have some of the bosses removed and together with the rack its going to be powdercoated black.
A big ass bell in Ø80 mm. (Its seriously loud!)
Hopefully most aluminium parts will be polished a bit.
.... and of course some other misc.Decals would be cool! I'd consider that. Im gonna make a lid for the basket. Any ideas of what it should say on top?
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Hi all! First post.
Thought I'd introduce myself by showing you my current project.
Its an mid-90 mid-range racebike which is being converted into a beer-porteur. A standart beer-case in Denmark holds 30 bottles and weighs in at 23 kg. Heavy stuff. The rack is holding up a lot better than expected though. Ignore the bars. Its in mock-up mode on the pic shown. Others are coming.
Bunch of pics in this Danish thread - http://fixie-king.dk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7632&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Im going to make a basket out of one of these cases so that it also can carry groceries and such. Im gonna fit a bottle opener on the rack aswell along with a pump and lights. Its supposed to be very usable so it might not end up the prettiest, bit we'll see. Oh yeah, its gonna be an SS and fenders will come along.
Sorry for my faul enlish, im not much of a writer.
If you have any suggestions or comments i'd be happy to listen and discuss :)
I'm 191.5 cm so thats 6'3" and a bit by my calculations. I'm all arm and legs with an inseam of 96.5 cm which means I need a short top tube yet long seattube. That kind of frame does not really exist when we're talking standart sizes. Taller frames always have really long TT's for what I need.
The drop from the saddle to the center of my handlebar stem connection is 20 cm. 33cm to the buttom of the bars.