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Size of the cut matters and I've used old tyres sidewalls as a boot, stuck on with rim tape and it held well.

Nice nice build!

Maybe... ;)

It's a parts bin find, alu with Hope face plates.

Nah, it's one of my mate's.

Got a front brake as it's currently with a suicide fixed rear hub.

You asked?

Distributed by ISON, but an actual brick and motar shop in Cambridge.

Not kicking them at all, I'm a big fan of Shimano as they work well enough and never felt wanting more (har har...).

The caliper is made for a G (or J too if you wanna go finned) and as +edscoble pointed out, B fits but there's a much bigger parallel gap between the caliper and pads which causes rocking or juddering under heavy breaking.

YMMV, B in a G caliper works ok, which is probably why you've not noticed it.

Also, curious why are you using Elvedes pads? Stop gap (pun intended!) during the Shimano factory fire + COVID + Evergreen shortage?

Can't find my G spare pads but this the compatibility list from the J04C.

Fiver please...

Fixie Brompton anyone?

This little bit here seems to be straight all the way down which indicates B, the G ones has a curve/waist.

I think you currently have the B series pads instead of the G ones.

M615 takes the G series pads, G05 are at the moment the bomb, bites like never before but still cheap as chips!

Where the heck are you based nowadays? Could pop over if you're central-ish.

11s works with 10 but not the other way. Photo of the codes on the plates?

There's a code on the other side of the caliper, that'll give you the definite answer to what pads you'll need.

Deore comes in non series, 4XX to the current 6XXX so just by the name both B and G applies!

Cane Creek is pretty low stack, also have you tried a low stack stem? Kalloy Uno are pretty decent for not a lot of money.

Or you can get a slam the stem cover from +gbj_tester if you wanna try to use your current headset.

I'll like to knock out a few small parts for testing, it's for bike polo, specifically attaching the mallet head to the shaft.

The material will be aluminium and dimensions will be quite small 3cm x 1cm x 2cm.

Who should I speak to?

I have Vittoria of some sorts on my Karate Monkey, can check tomorrow am if you are not sorted out by then.

Drop me a PM and I'll make sure I'll check.

I'll take one if there's any still going? Possible to post?

Many rave about Continental but have not personally tried them, still on good ol Marathons.

Takes a lockring and yes it's a Hubsmith wheel, bargain!

Let Community Cycle Works, Edwardes, The Bike Project, BabyLdn, Bob's Cyles, Cycleworks, Nazaan Cycles and Brixton Cycles know if you not already had.

Used to spend many an afternoons at Myatts Fields when I was with BC so that area was pretty familiar to me!

Depends.

Got photos of the frame and BB? What frame material? Also, what tools were used?

For stucked BBs I usually secure the BB tool with a Pedros tool, spanner of your your choice and a cheater bar.

Then hot water on the BB shell, leave it for 5 minutes and push down hard, hold it and increase torque.

Do not be tempted to yank at it, the key is to keep the pressure on and increasing it.

Might be obvious but what threading is the frame?

My favourite combo is a Park Tool BB tool, Park tool cheater bar, the aforementioned Pedros tool, a Brompton seatpost for extra leverage and hot water, have not been defeated yet.

If you're in London, drop me a PM and I'll be happy to give it a go.