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I've been playing with my new sekonic l-208 light meter for a few days and it seems to be working pretty well. It's the cheapest one I could find new, so I didn't expect a huge amount. But it does what I need it to fairly accurately.
I was, however quite disappointed with the instructions, which came in every language except the two that I speak. I found an online version, which showed almost nothing I didn't know already.
So after a few days I noticed a glaring error in the EV values.
Look at the picture here - ISO 100, EV15(sunny 16 rule) as expected a reading of f16:1/125.
The green neddle is just right of the centre pattern.
All good. However, if I change the ISO to 1600, EV15, the readout gives - f16: 1/125
Huh?!
Look at the needle - it is in a different place?
So what I can figure out from this, is that the EV values can only be correct at a certain ISO.
For somebody using the meter to set the camera, that is no problem, you don't really need the EV value.
If somebody was trying to learn to use the meter alongside the guesswork EV values they already knew, this would be a pain if you didn't know. This is not in the manual and I am still not sure exactly which ISO the EV values are correct. I think it is at ISO100.I like using EV values as the meter only reads down to EV 3, which means anything below that I have to guess the exposure. I just hoope I didn't fuck up last nights shots by mixing up my own calculations with my actual light readings.
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I received my spring project bike today - the kotter I mentioned before.
I was slightly disappointed that the paintwork was damaged in a few places as the guy advertised it as being in good condition but I am planning to powdercoat it so I suppose it doesn't matter.
I found a local powdercoater which offers coating for about 30 pounds. I quite fancy racing green but leaving the forks chrome.The tubing is columbus aelle, which I think is a lower end tubing, but it is surely an improvement on my current hi-ten bike.
The cranks are Dura ace, which I would liek to keep if possible but I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the chain line. From a quick check it seems that the inside chain ring is about 43mm from centre - is it possible to put the large chainring on the inside or would it be a better idea to put in a shorter BB? It is an italian threaded BB, which is a pain for me as I don't have the tools to deal with it so I will need to visit the lbs to take it apart.
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Just bought a kotter to convert, but I really don't like the colour scheme.
http://allegro.pl/kotter-dura-ace-campagnolo-tanio-rower-poznan-i1324148571.html
I would like it to be a nice racing green with the chrome on the stays and forks but I don't know what the best way to go about it is?Can you powder coat part of the frame and leave the stays chrome?
Would it be better, seeing as the existing paint is in a reasonable condition to sand it a little and spray over the green and then clear coat it? -
Can anyone put a frequency on crashes that happened due to cars?
I fall plenty in the winter, but I have only been hit by a car twice since I started commuting, during which time I have covered 3200km.
So about once per 1000 miles for me.One incident was a very lucky smidsy clip of the panniers. The other was a door opener in a place I couldn't escape from the door zone.
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Found this nice video whilst searching for a bike frame in Poland.
I will do my best at a translation, as I need the practice. Sorry If I miss out anything important. If anybody knows Polish better then please correct me!
Ostre koło / fixed gear on Vimeo
The whole bike, a simple form.
Fork, chain, chainring, pedals, bottom bracket, handlebars, frame, wheel, seat and tools.The bicycle is an ideal form of transport. Really, there is no ideal description of someone who rides a fixed gear, or someone who rides a bike at all?(Not sure if this is right and how to translate)
It is just a form of transport and fixed is the ideal form. Fixed gear is a form of freedom because it is so simple and if the individual is aware of the bike it is easy to control.
You have to remember to properly grease the parts so that everything works as it should, and if you do that it will ride itself.
The wheels are just the same as on a road bike with the exception of the hub, which is different - a track hub onto which a threaded sprocket is fitted with a oppositely threaded lockring to hold it in place.
Really the most important part of the bicycle is the chain and you have to remember to keep it in good condition.
The sprocket at the rear and the chainring at the front are wider.
It is also necessary to use a chain like a bmx, which helps the parts last longer.
The dropouts on a fixed gear are also different from a road bikes. They are narrower for the reason that the hub is narrower because space is not required for a cassette(?)Toeclips are important, because of these the cyclist and bike become one.
When you ride a fixed gear it is necessary to think about how you are going to get from place to place and not think about braking. Only think about how to conquer obstacles, how to overtake, how to use the spaces between cars and when to (yikes) go onto the pavement so as to not need to stop and sit in traffic with the cars.
On a fixed gear you should think about how to slow and speed up and not how to stop. -
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I found an giant that has been converted. The asking price is about 70 pounds.
What do you think? I know that loads needs replacing, but as a price for a spare bike do you think it is worth it. Have I missed anything vital?http://allegro.pl/ostre-kolo-i1371246254.html
I normally ride a 52cm frame, and this is 56. I know it will be tight, but I should be able to get away with it. I am probably over keen on getting this as fixed gear bikes don't come up very often in my area.
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Really, don't ask me. I have no idea what it does. I guess it is a pain remedy
It comes from a corner of my wifes family which believes in all sorts of weird shit.
They come from a Polish communist police background, so I can understand why they might believe some weird shit(and this is not the weirdest, believe me).I get really pissed off when they tell me how I should dress for the cold. I know better than them how -15 feels when you are riding and it drives me insane when they tell me what I should wear for it.
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Damn, three posts and you got it. This is my FIL's lucky knee wrap. It is lucky fucking knee cat wrap. I have no idea to whom the cat belonged before.
I really don't understand how people who have a lucky cat wrap can nag me to wear slippers when they think it is cold. Bloody superstition fail.
Part one I'm sure of In-law fail from me.Let us see what Christmas brings.
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My spd's are constantly getting clogged with snow which is sometimes a pain.
Last week I left the house and walked my bike through the deep snow on the drive, jumped on and rode 100m to a roundabout where the snow had been cleared.
I heard and felt a nice loud click from both pedals and so I put on the power to get away and I came unclipped as I pulled up my left foot - my knee nearly hit the handlebars and my whole balance went. How I stayed on I don't know but I think the guys at the bus stop thought I was off my head - they just saw somebody apparently crazily throw their body and leg in the air for no reason and nearly get themselves pureed under the following car. -
I see, so I guess I have been misunderstanding EV a little. I had been under the impression that EV was a measure of how much light there was and didn't realise that EV changes according to film speed. I thought EV15 was classed as a bright day regardless of film speed.
I was using this site - http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm
Because of the way it lays out the EV's in the chart it contradicts what my light meter says, although both ways you end up with the same exposure.