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I never said I knew what I was talking about!
It is true that I probably wouldn't buy incompatible parts, but there is more chance of fucking it up than on a fixed though, and £700 isn't an inconsiderable amount of money (for me) to throw at a bike, so I want to get something decent and worth the money.
I am ignorant, so getting peoples opinions is important, looks like I gravitate towards a classic steel tourer, that randonneur is looking more attractive. -
I don't mind frictions shifters, TBH I like building bikes, but the prospect of building something more epxensive and more complicated makes me feel like buying a complete bike. I probably wouldn't buy the right combintion of parts or be able to set up gears correctly, and I want to do big mileages on a reliable bike.
The randonneur is surely a nice reliable tourer, it probably wont be too much money either. The only reason I was looking at newer bikes was for reliability and comfort (pussy, I know), the Kinesis is not too far away from me, ultegra groupset, farting above my arsehole? I dunno. -
Hmmm, OK this is the right size for me, but the seller has said you can't fit mudguards/rack to it, which isn't the end of the world, but the clearance doesn't look that bad, if I swapped the calipers. Still, I would buy this for £500.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/290450947561/There is also this Randonneur currently for £123, looks pretty:
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Colemans hill is a fucking killer, even geared it hurts, it's near enough 3/4 mile, 1 in 7 hill.
I attempted it on my fixed with 53/16 gearing, and honestly even standing up (16 stone hard down on the pedal!) half way up I stopped dead, I just couldn't put enough force through the pedal to get over my weight + the hill + 99.5 GI. I nearly rolled backwards. The 100 mile goes to the absolute highest point in the entire Cotswolds, I will give anyone a firm handshake if they can do it fixed. -
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/FRPXK/planet-x-kaffenback-frame
I have a kaffenback frame & forks in medium (see above for sizes). £60 posted.
It's blue.
Dammit I'm 6'1", seems like a good deal. I will investigate Planet-X further. Cheers.
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Was about to buy a Scott speedster today but had to stop and think more. It's hard to decide at this price range as everything seems very similar, out of the bikes I listed earlier and a few more:
Trek1.2
Bianchi Nirone 7
Scott Speedster S60
Giant Defy 3
Felt F95
Specialazied Dolce/Allez***
***Orbea aqua TSR
LaPierre R lite 200Reviews don't really single one out as being way better than the rest, I checked the bay, but I think I should buy new, get a warranty and that.
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Ah, fixed it.
If you get the shitty multi-tool that you get with the hub, slot the little square bit over the drive side if the axle, get a fuck off big spanner and screw off the arm side nut about 3 turns, use the arm to tighten that side in and check the wobble on the dirve side, it will go, but then start to bind like a normal hub, so it needs to have a bit of play.
Sadly, the ride up the road with it sloppy has resulted in my axle bending! anyone got a spare axle for a velosteel? -
Welcome to the club
Sounds like it!
The play is definately down to not being able to tighten the cone against the bearings on the drive side, which seems odd as thae stupid massive cone/nut thing is fully wound in when sent brand new.
I'm going to take it apart tommorrow and try and undo the other side to get some more thread to play with.
I honestly must have managed less than a mile on it before this happened! -
Sorry to dredge this up, but it seems like the right line of enquiry based on the previous answers.
I have a new velosteel coaster on my weird cruiser thing, it was brand new and only been up te road and back on the bike.The sprocket and the bit that the sprocket is attached to wobbles about, I can't wind the cone in on the sprocket side any more to tighten it as it hits a shoulder on the axle. It becomes solid at the point when it would engage and turn the wheel, but on back pedaling it become wobbly again, then solid at the point the brake engages. I'm sure the whole thing was solid yesterday, you can wobble the wheel on the axle when it is on the bike, the axle is not bent or anything.
It seems on the other side there a few spacers after the arm, then a thin nut, that I cannot untighten, looks to be some kind of locktite in there, I was thinking I could undo the nut, and wind this side on, pulling the axle tight against the bearing on the sprocket side.
Really puzzling, as it is all new and the bearings are in pefect condition inside.
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This is a charity event on the 22nd August for the Shakespeare hospice, there's a 20 mile, 100km and 100 mile route depending on how hard you are, and it looks to get a bit steep (1 in 7 hills at worst). Still it's for charity, I am probably going to do the 100km version, my wife the 20 mile(weak).
http://www.theshakespearehospice.org.uk/events/event_details.aspx?id=28
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Get these http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/54/cridb/id-cr-mo-chain-ring-bolts-5-pack.html and lose the outer ring
They're shitty pressed Peugeot cranks, the other single chainring I had was too big, and dump. I will put some BMX cranks and chainring on when I find some I like.
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time for some recursive forum navigation...
[QUOTE=highboy_coupe;1496578]
Whats the deal with BMX BB + cranks, my tiny mind says if it's a Euro BB then the bearings/cups and crank axle will fit into a 68mm MTB BB shell, even allowing spacing of the chainring? So it just a matter of staying away from Mid and Standard BBs, Or is there some other magic going on?
I have a 107mm square taper in at the minute, and chainline issues mean it's going to have to stay that length, any ideas on spacing a coaster hub sprocket out?[QUOTE=propeller;692198]there may be a thread about this that i cant find I HAVE SEARCHED !
if there is please link me to it.
if not, what do you guys think about having bmx crank arms and stuff on fixed/single speed bike? or is it just fashionable to have it?[QUOTE=mdizzle;1124764]I used the search and found some things, but i need some advice from the ex/current BMXers out there.
I live in Brasil, and the availability of any kind of fixed gear/track frame is not that good, so to counter this i have collaborated with a BMX frame builder to produce a prototype frame.We used a track frame for the template, but have made it from 4130, it weighs in at 2kgs.....the only problem is that it has a mid sized bb.
This means i can only use BMX cranks, apart from the chainring pinch bolt unscrewing and the obvious weight dis-advantages, what other problems will i encounter using a BMX crankset?
As i have said this is a prototype frame, and anu ones that go into production will have a standard threaded bb, we just built with what we had available....
Thanks for any help......[QUOTE=vinylvillain;1124774]http://www.londonfgss.com/thread21907.html
I am sure i heard Profile are making a Fixed specific crank now?
[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
There's loads of info in other threads about this, but yeh your basically right. BMX cranks are completely adjustable (profile 19mm / primo 22mm). You can change the shell width (cut the tube spacer) and chainline to suit anything.
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this is rubbish.
they thought all this heavy weight loading would prevent bone loss in space (microgravity = no loading = bone loss) so made a load of the astronauts do resistance weights and all that jazz, but recent research suggests that the majority of 'bone strengthening' signals come from low impact, high frequency loading, as youd get every day in a gravity environment. theres a guy called rubin at NYU whos been testing all this by putting birds on those vibrating plates you see at the gym. obviously microfractures and all that from weightlifting, high impact sports helps add bone density, but you dont lose bone by not doing the high impact stuff.
Now, I know I wouldn't get bone loss from watching birds on vibrating plates.
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Can someone tell me what size feet/shoes/pedals work with these straps, I just got some delivered and even at full extension they go nowhere near fitting over my feet on DMR V8s.
PS. This is in no way an insult to the manufacturer of these top quality straps, I* want* to use them, I just can't.
Thanks. -
I know it's nearly £40 but I think this would work really well
http://www.winstanleysbmx.com/product/4215/Profile_Widowmaker_SS_Sprocket
That looks suitable.
Whats the deal with BMX BB + cranks, my tiny mind says if it's a Euro BB then the bearings/cups and crank axle will fit into a 68mm MTB BB shell, even allowing spacing of the chainring? So it just a matter of staying away from Mid and Standard BBs, Or is there some other magic going on?
I have a 107mm square taper in at the minute, and chainline issues mean it's going to have to stay that length, any ideas on spacing a coaster hub sprocket out?
There is a king of Mercia available, but it has Mirage groupset, which seems odd. Lovely frame though.