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I think with matching wheels and a turbo, this would look even better

you can really polish the seatpost up with scrunched up tinfoil

Oh, thanks for the seatpost tip!
I had a turbo on it, but the lack of proper seatpost clamp made it deformed slightly when tightened up, I really need a better post/clamp. You know the story, book I got an old Peugeot...etc.
Still, I have trouble matching wheels.

This collection of bits is currently getting in my way, I did manage to grind some stupid braze on (including lock!?) off, and found that Rover have an exact colour match, so touched up the bits I ground off. Velocity deep-vee front, no-name rear, stem that says made in Japan 'custom', bars from communist folding bike, stupid seat post and one flat tyre. Those cranks aren't really 'on' it.

And i got a lovely rear wheel from varno, some really big MKS clips and some 1970's pedals of unknown origin, and re-did my frst attempt at wrapping bars.

I have a black/yellow Giant stem to go on, so excuse the rusty bolt.

I just experienced the grandfather paradox, that fast.

These last like they cost 20 quid.

Specific I know, but it's what I want. 120mm spacing, fixed or free/fixed, posted.

Thank you.

there's two way.

one is to build it up with decent part and eventually get a different frame.

the other is build it up cheaply so you can have fun without worrying about getting it nicked/damage/etc. sell it for a reasonable amount, and use that money to fund a new bike.

IMHO, do it the cheap and cheerful way, it's much more fun riding a bike on the cheap than with expensive part.

+1

My current HLE mangaloy was £10, parts = £150

Noob question - I just bought a wheelset complete with sprocket. Now the sprocket has a flange on it - is this meant to face the middle of the wheel or out towards the locknut?

I know this might be obvious once I try and put it together but I'm sat at work trying to work out my chainline and order a BB for the weekend and I can't really get the whole wheelset out and start tinkering with it without everyone realising I'm blatantly slacking.

Cheers all.

That's flange is...leverage.

Fit your chain and find out what I mean.

Nah, I was umming and arring about it, but Idecided I didn't like red at the last minute, and I was a little bit put off by the sellers description of the condition. I hope it's a good'un.

Don't know if it has a name, sometimes it's on the chainring to stop the chain sliding down behind the crank arm if it comes off.

They're not red, they're MOSTLY BRONZE?...

.

^ Was that the red one on ebay I was looking at? Had same sizing as you said.

My lovely (i think) Kinesis Racelight, Ultegra groupset, easy going up hills.

Is anyone having these?? I will definately take them if
A) you can post
B) rear has lockring threading ( can't quite tell from photo)
Thanks.

My Peugeot HLE + 103 have standard British threads and 68mm BB shell width. I use a 107mm cartridge in both, that gets the chainline nice and straight and allows a 53 tooth chainring without hitting the chainstay.

Check which way the fixed side BB cup unscrews with a big adjustable spanner, if it unscrews clockwise then it's likely to be British and you can use whatever cheapy cartridge you want of ebay (Acor are £11). If it unscrews anti-clockwise then it's French, and I'm out of ideas.

No such thing as too tight, get bigger tools.

Especially without a key! Thanks.

Found one reference to a clou rear wheel lock. But no clue as to how it would work. Off with it! Also looks like I got a front fork dynamo braze-on. Maybe I should keep the bits, keep it functional.

Err, is this some kind of weird lock?? It's brazed on, so I need to remove it from my recent aquisition.

Just got this, from a guy who has the most amazing shed I have ever seen. Going to get that cottered crap out quick smart.

I see what you mean, it's just further back in the dropout. It does have long dropouts.

Ok thanks, looks like I'll need to drill the dropout though..

Hi,

What options do I have when there is no rear mech hanger on a frame, Is a frame like this just destined to go fixed, or is it pretty common?
I can see in this photo the mech is just attached to the axle, my frame doesn't seem to even have a hole for what looks like could be securing the mech here...

thanks,

back on 53/16 again after 14t proved too small for the cotswolds. Sheldon says 87.1 GI, do about 100m a week on it.

Any high temp grease is fine, such as lithium grease. (castrol LM is partly lithium grease + some soap agents)
Grease is pretty much.. greasy. Coming from an automitive background, I use copper grease on anything that could seize, lithium on anything that moves.

Whatever, it' s not like I owe the guy anything. Thought they photos were pornworthy.