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I've just picked up one of the early Bullitt cargo bikes from a friend. It's currently equipped with a SRAM 7-speed hub with a coaster brake that I'd like to swap out.

The frame doesn't have an option for a front derailleur, so I'm think of going down the 1x10 route. I'm looking at doing a Shimano Deore build, but I'm a little bit at a loss on sensible options for the chainset.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated!

Pretty sure they shut down.

A few thoughts.

Zona is a good tube set to start with, the metallurgy is quite forgiving of heat. Spirit is thin and expensive, probably not ideal for a first frame.

If you're building a lugged frame you won't be able to use a tapered headset, and your angles & tubing choices will be quite constrained. Basically, lugs are restrictive. That also applies to the ISP.

What your design implies is either a fillet brazed or a TIG welded construction. I see that Downland now offer fillet brazed frames.

Fillet brazing and finishing is a bit more complex than lugged work, especially when it comes to creating a smooth flowing finish without damaging the tubing. It's possible, but definitely harder, and you'd be pushing it to have a fully finished fillet brazed frame as a novice in 6 days.

Don't want to sound like a downer, as it should be an enjoyable process - just make sure you keep things simple on your first frame so you can get the basics as good as possible.

Here you go

Mudguards and fork are colour matched too

They did the last two frames I built, both paint jobs were excellent, clear coats are glass-smooth.

I'll be there this weekend, working on the Saffron Frameworks stand.

Bit of a short-notice call up, due to someone suffering an unfortunate rearrangement of their collarbone. Ouch.

Oh, and the Hiver is a good fork, I've used that on a winter build. Just stay away from very wide flange hubs (like Bitex) as they can clash with the inside of the fork legs. Hope RS Monos work well, that's what I went for.

I think fillet brazing has some similarities to TIG, having used both to build frames. When I fillet braze a frame I'm using a pretty small torch nozzle (normally a #2, sometimes a #3 with a neutral flame inner cone of around 4mm) and 2mm SIF 101 rod.

I don't like putting massive fillets down. Smaller ones are mechanically strong enough to have a joint that exceeds the tube strength, plus your minimising the total amount of heat, the HAZ, and reducing distortion.

I'd definitely recommend playing around with practice tubing to see how getting right in close with a smaller Oxy Acetylene flame works.

It's not quite the same as stacking dimes when you TIG, but with the right settings you can get a similar result with a fillet braze.

If I didn't own one already I'd be vey interested in that!

My Karate Monkey. Modified it to have an extra down tube - chainstay cable run to keep the hub gear shifter nice and clean.

Thanks for the suggestions. Want to go for 130 'cos of dish, weight and looking tidy, as @Howard suggested. Technically I could go 135, as I have one of the 132.5mm spaced frames, but sounds like the Ultra is a solid option.

Cheers!

Yes you do, although plenty of people don't. It's a bit antisocial doing that if the tunnel is busy, IMO.

And North Greenwich is a bit of a maze, depends which bit you're in. The cycle route around the O2 is a right PITA.

I've commuted from Finsbury Park to North Greenwich (and beyond) a few times. By preference I'd choose to stay North and use the foot tunnel, roads seem a bit more mellow, and the route out from the City via CS3 is OK.

I'm converting my Cross Check to a single speed for around-town duties. Planning on building a new rear wheel on a Surly Ultra New Hub as it has the right OLD and can also be locked in with a security skewer.

I've done some research, and there wasn't much else that fitted the bill that I could find. Just wondering if anyone knows of any other options?

Thanks

Depends on if you have Pro 2 or Pro 2 Evos, but there's a list for the various types here:

http://www.justridingalong.com/which-bearings-hub-hope-dt-ztr-am-classic/

Yeah, they are nice rims. It's not too hard to fit normal tyres, even though they are a 2-way fit. Build up pretty easily too.

The stickers come off really easily if you want to run them plain, but I agree with you, they look a bit dull if they are completely stripped bare. I know Noble Wheels do some custom stickers if you want a black on black look.

Personally, I think the square edge profile of the Hope headset gives a better visual transition between the fork crown and head tube. Although I like King stuff, and have used it on other bikes, the rounded edge of the lower cup doesn't look great when scaled up on a 44mm head tube. It sort of floats off the fork, which looks a bit weird. Also, the CK red isn't a good colour match, it's too cherry in tone.

Paint scheme (pretty obviously!) is taken from the Belgian national jersey.

I did, but when I was speccing the frame the only through axle mudguard capable fork was the TRP, and it wasn't available.

Likewise for the rear, I could have gone with Paragon Machine Works Polydrops, but didn't think it was necessary. There are more through axle dropouts turning up on the market now, though.

Thanks! Dan Cole who runs Cole Coatings Workshop in Peckham has done the paint on my last couple of frames. He shares space with Seabass Cycles.

Yeah, the mount point is behind the crown - you need to fabricate a hanger to make it fit, but that's not too hard.

You can see the same setup on a bike I built for myself here:

Not a problem, just took a quick snap. This is a Challenge Grifo mounted on a Pacenti SL25 rim. It's rated as a 33mm tyre, but comes up closer to 35mm on this rim. There's bags of room.

Thanks! Yeah it's the CX Disc.

Confusingly, Kinesis also have the very slightly cheaper CXD which I initially specced. However, they've changed the design of the CXD so it features an integrated carbon crown race, which is no good if you want to run a Hope or King headset, as you can't seal the lower bearing.

Just finished putting this together today. Very happy with the way it came out, and I like the SRAM Hydro discs a lot.

Google say it can be used in the event of what they call inherent lag in certain speakers. Seems a bit of an edge case, but interesting that they thought it worth addressing.

http://https://support.google.com/chromecast/answer/6318642?hl=en-GB

Was setting up some Chromecast Audios and noticed a couple of things in the config app I've not seen before.

1) There's an option to turn on full dynamic range if you're sending audio to a proper hi-fi setup.

2) You can assign them to a group and create a multiroom setup, with an adjustable timing delay to sync the sound.

Which is nice.