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If it were me I'd get a OTP with a frame I liked, that fitted well, and was worth uprading parts around.

There's just too many varibles to know what you want striaght off.

As someone who has never really mtn biked before I am starting to think along the same lines. In fact, I'm wondering if the best value for money, most fun/versatile intro to mtn biking would an otp hardtail, geared, disc braked, aluminium framed bike. Much as I like the idea/look of a steel, SS, fully rigid bike, I just think I risk limiting myself unnecessarily. Also, I don't find speed entirely independent from fun, so if I feel a bike is causing me to slow up because of its limitations I find it frustrating. Plus something like a SS Inbred would cost about the same anyway.

Sounds easy. Might take it to the LBS though if it's a quick job as I'm hesitant about glueing something directly into the frame.

Recently bought a 2nd hand road bike and just noticed that one of the water bottle cage bolts appears to be cross threaded and won't come out. Also, if I use an allen key on it and turn it slightly it turns the insert(?) thing that fits into the frame. The frame is alu and appears to have a small part which fits into the frame and which the bolt screws into. Can this be taken out and replaced? Is it a relatively easy job? It's my only bike atm and I'm reluctant to book the bike into a shop for such a small issue and then not be able to ride.

Just to clarify some points from PMs.

There is some very very minor surface scratches on the upper section of the seat stay. Basically, the frame's almost as good as new and only mentioning these to be completely up front.

Tyre clearance: may fit 25c but as a track frame it's not suitable if you need to run wide tyres.

£320 pick up from London.

Dropped the price and added headset and BB.

Cool, thanks - have pm'd VB.

I never got around to buying one of these when they were available, and I see SJS no longer sell them. I'd be interested in any of the designs really, but liked the Samurai and the NBA ones. I'm about 6'1 slim build so would need a reasonably large size. Or if anyone knows if they're going to be printed again or can be custom ordered I'd be interested. Cheers.

http://thecyclingsilk.blogspot.com/2010/11/metropolitan-police-do-they-take.html

interesting stuff about attempting to report dangerous driving to the police

I've had bad experiences with gatorskins - loss of grip and punctures. Moved onto 4 seasons few weeks ago but now have a tear in the tyre which is allowing a little bulge of inner tube to protrude from the tyre. Can this be solved by glueing the tear or something? Really not impressed with contis atm.

Bike fitting over the internets? Can't be done.
True, but the on one website says the pompino seat tube angle is 73.5, but it's clearly much more relaxed than that.

I'm not sure i understand. If i rotate the triangle of contact points i will end up with the saddle further behind the bb. I have the saddle pretty far forward on my pompino, any further back and i get tense calves. Problem is i now have a really. short reach to the bars-maybe it's just not possible to replicate a road position on the pomp.

It's all about hip angle. If you raise the bars, you can then move the seat back without closing the hip angle. It affects weight distribution, putting more weight on the saddle and less on the hands, which might be more comfortable. Essentially, without changing the triangle formed by the three contact points, you can rotate the whole body by a few degrees either way. Tilted forward usually reduces frontal area, and thus aerodynamic drag, while increasing the weight borne by the hands and arms which can be tiring. Tilting back reverses all of the above. In the case of TT and Tri bikes, the seat tube is sometimes steepened without further lowering the front end, which is already aerodynamically optimised, and this has the effect of opening up the hip angle which affects the muscle recruitment in pedalling, which may either increase short term power output (TT) or reduce fatigue in muscle groups which are needed later fro running (Tri).

In addition to all of the above, the seat tube angle affects the set back of the saddle from the BB, which is a fit issue based on femur and foot length relative to total leg length.

Perfect, seat tube almost vertical, win!;

Out of curiosity, what difference does it make in terms of handling/performance/comfort to have a more relaxed seat tube. I understand the steeper angle on TT/track frames put the rider further over the BB for more power, but what benefit is there to having a seat tube that's more relaxed than a typical road bike 73.5, when you would probably need to move the saddle forward to compensate?

Thinking about building up a SS mtb, and want to do it as simply as possible, but was wondering if the kinds of trails I'm likely to ride on will limit my options. I'd probably be riding in the south downs, so rocky/chalky and steep climbs/descents. Apparently 26 inch wheels are better for more technical stuff, but could I get away with no suspension and one gear?

Crabon?
Carbon would be good, but not too concerned about material.

Looking for an inline/no set back seatpost 27.2mm.

@ chris0 - I briefly had some Mavic mtb shoes where the tread interfered with the ATAC cleat. I think it was a tread depth issue, as fitting a shim between cleat and sole (about 1 or 2mm) solved the problem.

You could just scrape/slice/hack off a bit off the top of the tread on the lugs to the left and right of the widest part of the cleat.

Never had this problem with Sidis.
I've done a google search but can't seem to find shims for time cleats. Where did you get yours?

Been using them for about 1 year - and they've never got near the ease of use of spds.

I've found that time atacs are harder to clip into (I sometimes struggle to get my shoe in exactly the right place) and also harder to clip out of (when a split second unclip is needed when riding offroad for example) compared to SPDs. Apparently some shoes require some tread to be cut away in order to work properly with atacs, and I'm wondering if that's the issue with my shimano shoes. When I used spds all I had to do was put my foot roughly in the right place on the pedal and they clipped in. Equally, they required hardly any force/sideways movement to unclip. Having to make several attempts to clip in when moving off from junctions is getting annoying. Assuming this is a problem with tread getting in the way, can anyone advise on how much tread to remove and what parts of the tread? CHeers

Will keeping my coffee in the fridge keep it fresher? We don't have a freezer at work so that's not an option. It's just preground lavazza (for the moment) for a cafetiere.

I use preground lavazza at work. Think it says you should keep it in the fridge, which is what I do. Mine's tasted fine for the last 3 weeks, but might just be losing a bit taste now but am at the end of the packet anyway.

So are manufacturers going to stop making anything over 32mm tyres?

I might investigate 29 inch tyres to see if one will fit.

Hopefully this is the right thread...

I'm looking to do some offroad on a pompino and am trying to find a cyclocross tyre that will be most suitable. I'm not looking for speed as I'll not be racing, but want something fairly rugged and grippy. Riding on the odd trail with 30mm michelin mud tyres is sometimes tricky when the terrain gets bumpy. Wondering if there are any cx tyres up to around 34/35mm that could make for a more enjoyable ride.

EAI Bareknuckle track frame in size 56 (c-c).

Never been raced or crashed. Used for about 10 months for commuting/training (outside London) so has the usual marks on the track ends/forks and a few very minor scratches.

What's included: Frame + Fork + Headset (cane creek s3 with brand new bearings) + BB (miche primato).
(I also have the Dedecciai Com 12.5 sticker that was never used.)
I have a frame box from planet x, so can send this well-packaged/padded.

£340 posted.

PM for more info/photos.

No response from Josh about the bar so I guess he's no longer interested.

The salsa handlebar is still available if anyone's interested.

Thinking about buying a headset removal tool and was looking at the Icetoolz one on ebay for around £10. Seems cheap but was wondering if anyone has any experience with it.

If you are that worried about torque then buy a torque key

And don't ever get alu forks they really are horrible!

Do these ever come with removable allen bits? On my two bikes I have both 4mm and (I think) 5mm allen bolts.