Search results for:

Me again. No luck on the cog, so I'm still looking for a 15 tooth threaded cog, posted to Bournemouth. PM me or post here if you've got one in reasonable condition.

Ben

Cog (probably) found, thanks all.

Okay, by the looks of it the BB lockring is sorted, anyone got a 15t cog lying around? :)

Thanks for the heads up, but I should add that I've been a tit and not clarified that I meant the South of England (ie. Bournemouth), not South London :) sorry

Wow, that was fast :) Cheers, man.

I should say that 3/32 would be marginally better (got my eyes on a particular chain) but 1/8 would be ok if that's all that's going.

I'm looking for a 15 tooth threaded cog and a BB lockring for a 'suicide' (hehe) setup on my university beater. So it's a normal track cog I'm after, but an old-fashioned British bottom bracket lockring rather than your normal LHT track-hub lockring.
This is supposed to be a cheap bike, so I'm not really up for spending much. Used and working condition is fine. I'm in the South so it'll have to be posted. Hope someone has one lying around :)

Ben

Hmm. Over-tightened? Irregular/damaged bearings or run?
Looking like a replacement might be the easier option (though never as fun as mending and making do)

It's probably grit... quite possibly it's grit that's come in through the seat tube in bad weather or paint/rust chips from the inside of the frame falling down and not getting stopped by the BB sleeve. Take it to bits, clean it, grease it, put it back together. But bear in mind that if it is grit, rust or paint, it might have scratched up the bearings or the runs, at which point you may as well replace it (especially if it's unsealed and without a BB sleeve).

Ignore me, question has become irrelevant (the hub I was talking about turned out to be a funny looking cup-and-cone when I took it to bits)

Interesting thing I found on Rivendell Bike Workshop (http://www.rivbike.com/article/bicycle_making/frame_materials):
"Steel critics cite rust as a weak point of steel, and even the word rust conjurs up images of broken chains and hole-y buckets. But rust and corrosion ("rust" being steel-specific) are protective responses to environmental conditions, and once a layer has built up, they become a protective layer against further corrosion. Super thin tubes are more vulnerable to rust than are thicker ones, and that's a good argument for avoiding 0.35mm walls in steel bicycle frame tubes. But if rust were the tube-killer the carb-al-ti folks would have you believe, there wouldn't be hundreds of thousands of 30-year old and routinely neglected steel-framed bicycle still roaming the planet. Even so, it is best to prevent corrosion in super-thin-walled steel tubes by spraying them with any number of anti-rust sprays readily available. FrameSaver is one. Boeshield T9 is another. LPS makes some good anti-rust sprays. If you like the old ways, use linseed oil. The point is, rust is a problem only in your head."
But having said that, there's anecdotal evidence here and there that rust can cause failures. Odd. Anyhow, having read that, I might try just stripping the paint off my frame and protecting the inside. If it breaks, I'll let you know :)

Can't help thinking that it's sort of cheating if you're allowed to stop every night :) But it's still pretty neat just because it's such a long way keeping that sort of cadence every day.

I've looked at every thread regarding rust.
General consensus seems to be that as long as the inside isn't rusty, it shouldn't lose its structural integrity, but I was wondering whether anyone knew what sort of time-scale we are looking at for the surface rust to eat through (obviously, sooner or later it will happen).
As for rust rubbing off on clothes, I'm yet to find anything about it. So I thought I'd ask in here to see whether anyone knew. Admittedly, I should have checked the date; didn't realise how old this thread was (I'm used to forum setups that warn you if you're resurrecting an old thread). If it's a bother, don't worry.

On second thoughts, if that's too much like thread hijacking, let me know and I'll start another thread.

Would there be any trouble in the long term just stripping the paint and leaving it to rust? Being of a steampunk persuasion, I like the rusty look, and I'd kinda like my bike to look rubbish but work well to reduce its nickability at uni. Would the rust weaken the frame / rub off on clothes if left to its own devices? (PS - all bits that need to be kept rustproof for mechanical reasons would probably be hammerited)

I'd cold space it - it's a piece of piss as long as you take it easy and check alignment. Respacing cartridge bearing hubs is quite difficult because you need a special axle with a thicker central section to fit the hub, rather than just a uniform width threaded axle. Given that Miche hubs use Italian threading you'd be very lucky to find one and your best bet would be to get one custom machined.

Sorry for the thread necromancy, but I'm wondering about this point because I've got an old MTB with a cartridge-bearing rear axle I'd like to respace for a BMX sprocket. Are all cartridge-bearing hubs impossible to respace without replacing the axle? I've searched around with google and there are very few references to it. Even Sheldon's silent on it, so I thought I'd post on here.

Ben