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In this context, I believe the word 'vintage' is defined as 'denoting something from the past of a very high quality' but I could be wrong.
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In case Jesus comes back and tries to fuck you up the buns with his big hot cross.
fixed for easter
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In case Jesus comes back and tries to fuck you up the arse with his big cross.
fixed
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an abrasive man who suggests 10 minuets [sic] with a wire brush as a solution to rust.
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But seriously, where?
Theoretically, anyone with a tig welder could do it. In reality you need someone with a lot of experience as its proper easy to fuck up.
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What a beautiful thing
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To fit an old school ITM quill stem for a 1" steerer.
Has to be at least 170mm long with recessed allen key fitting.
I'm also looking for a titanium binder bolt for the same stem.
Even if you dont have one I would be very grateful for any info about UK suppliers.
TIA -
I'm gonna buy this and paint it gorgeous baby blue with brown lugs.
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The author meets an early detractor of multiple gearing:
"An old and experienced bicyclist, fond of "century runs," or one hundred miles at a stretch, - which I am not, - remarks that so far as he has been able to find out, these hill-climbing devices work well enough, but he doubts their value. If the hill is too hard to ride up, it is steep enough to walk up. Any device to change the gearing at will adds just so much to the cost and intricacy of the machine."
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cyclists - keep the seatpost out of your arse by bolting a saddle to it.
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keep going with the penetrating oil but use something better than wd40. ambersil or plusgas maybe. leave it as long as you can at least 3 nights worth of application. Then wrap the crank in thick rags hold it horizontally in a vice, get a decent spanner on the pedal thread and hit it with a big hammer.
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my local chemist sold me 500gram for £1.90
had to ask for it though cus it wasnt on the shelves. -
I got a pair of rubber ones for £2.20 inc and delivered
http://www.unicycle.uk.com/shop/shopdisplayproduct.asp?catalogid=779 -
Was that london's famous Adrian Simpson?
In which country did he present top gear again?
they should have got Clarkson presenting that. At least there would have been some honesty amongst the bigotry. -
and £2.50 to deliver the fucker
waaahI think I'm gonna make something cus this hole is ugly and over to one side
in fact im gonna glue an ally insert in with liquid metal and redrill it. -
a cool £1 for the right sized piece of rubber to plug my rim.
nice -
now fuck off.
and it was going so well
btw what do you call those repair plug things?
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Can't believe a thread with a title like this got 2 sensible replies. Am I on Bike Radar?
It was an attention grabber wasn't it?
and thanks for the sensible replies chaps.
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I just bought a beater (unseen and cheap)and was delighted to find it has a pair of mavic module e's on it.
The only trouble is that the valve hole on the rear one has been badly drilled out (ie not central) probably to fit a schraeder valve (bastards!)
Does anyone have any knowledge or experience of repairing such a travesty?
TIA -
^ I missed the point didnt I?
Maybe I should actually read before I post. -
[QUOTE=Sam;1224019]I always though it was best to sit back in the saddle for greater leverage when climbing.
QUOTE]This is exactly what my dad always used to say but I noticed that I couldnt get up some hills at all without standing up.
Perhaps my thighs just werent thick enough.
I also notice that pro road racers always seem to stand on the real steep hills.
I think it comes down to this: If you can stay in the saddle, you won,t get knackered as quickly but if it comes to the point where you are about to lose momentum and have to get off and walk then standing up might just be enough to get you over the brow of the hill.
LFGSS
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so would I and here is my 2c worth:
Don't get it powdercoated cus 1 thing the companies dont tell you is that baked on polyester does not last much morethan 8 years before uv makes it hard enough to crack off in chunks. And they never bother with a primer because 'you don't need it'.
Im guessing the paint finish you have now is a bit older than 8 years and has a certain value through its originality. That said, its up to you if you want togo with something brand new.
A careful touch up job is the best thing to do if you want to spend money and keep the most value.
Personally I wouldnt even clearcoat it as this would make it harder to renovate the original paintwork in the future if this is what you want to do.
All i would do is clean it up with parrafin and rub a greasy rag over it from time to time. Make sure you dont let it stay wet any longer than it has to. Also pay attention to your seat post and handlebar stem. Take them out of the frame every 6 months or so and coat them with either copper grease (best) or ordinary grease (good enough).
And above all don't listen to anyone who tells you you have to throw money at it immediately or it will crumble to dust.