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Indeed - does anyone know how to buy the cleat plate separately? No-one seems to sell it, so this mod may be useless unless you happen to have an Exposure light lying around. I might try USE directly.

Bought because I thought I would need to run 36 x 13, but I ended up being able to fit 38 x 14 without fouling the chainstay. Never screwed onto a hub and quite jewel-like in this size. £16 including UK postage, which saves you a couple of quid compared to Hubjub.

Going for something like 45mm, using spacers to take up any extra, will mean you can get virtually any replacement headset on there in future. Many 1990s road bikes had the steerers cut right down for 33mm stack height Shimano 105/600 headsets. They were crap headsets* which didn't last long, and replacements are both difficult to find and expensive.

*there was a quiet revolution in headset design around 1995 when people started using loose races or cartridges that could move relative to the pressed-in cups; this pretty much eliminated the "indexed steering" problem that used to kill headsets. It took about 150 years to work this out.

This is my other fixie - a rather different prospect altogether. Since the photo was taken it has acquired an S3X hub with the shifter on the left-hand end of the bullhorns.

Yes, there are different sizes. It goes in to about an inch below the top tube joint, as it should. The bit of wrap between the rear light and seatclamp, incidentally, is for protection against Sheffield stands.

On-One say the 18" frame is suitable for people up to 6'2". I am just under 5'11" and I have no idea where someone taller would find a suitable seatpost.

It's not the most gainly beast, but this week I finished the Inbred (never has a bike been so appropriately named). I don't know what kind of acid flashback On-One's designer was having when he came up with the kind of geometry that requires a 410mm seatpost, a 30mm stem and 60mm of spacers (for a rider who LIKES a big drop to the bars) and the head tube is laughably short, but that's the way it is. I live in the sticks and the first two miles are unlit horse poo-strewn lanes, so my requirements are slightly different to those in the Smoke.

I got the Diabolus DH stem half price from an eBay seller in Portugal. Don't look up the full price, you might scare yourself.

Is it a dinner plate? Is it a frisbee? No, it's a 205mm brake disc for drag-brake stupidity. Note old-school steel QR tucked under the caliper so it can't come loose.

Fairly simple control layout.

It rides...well, beautifully, which is surprising given the weird geometry and the slightly short forks (the frame is recommended for 470mm sussers, these are 445mm rigid Project Twos).

Kit list: On-One Inbred Slot Dropout 18" frame, Kona Project Two fork, Race Face Diabolus stem, Syncros bars, Cannondale grips, X-Lite Stubbie bar ends, Hope M4 (original) hydraulic disc brake with Mini lever and 205mm disc (no.8 caliper), Cane Creek S6 headset, Hope 30.0mm seatclamp, Thomson Elite layback seatpost, Specialized BG Comp 143 saddle, Shimano 107mm UN54 BB, Sugino XD cranks, Surly 38T s/s chainring, KMC Z510 gold chain (the cheapest thing on the bike - a fiver!), E.A.I. 14T sprocket. Wheels: rear Goldtec track hub, 36 DT Competition black spokes, Mavic XC717 disc rim, Schwalble Marathon Plus 26 x 1.35 and front Hope Pro II hub, same spokes, rim and tyre. Accessories: Halfords full mudguards with lots of custom bracketry and Smart 1/2-watt rear light. Hope Vision 1 front light not shown.

There are a couple of different lockring standards, although the sprocket thread is nearly always the same (apart from some old Italian hubs).

Spacers under the sprocket on a track hub (they're OK on a freewheel hub, which has much deeper threading) are something to be avoided if possible, since the sprocket won't thread on fully and you may strip the hub when pedalling, plus there may be no space left for the lockring. Get the correct BB length instead, or get a BB that is slightly too short and put the spacer under the RH cup/flange to move it out by the odd millimetre.

36.3mm doesn't include the sprocket. Add 7mm for an EAI or Dura-Ace, which gives an actual chainline of 43.3mm.

The measurement is of the shell itself, not including the cups. Only some older MTBs used 73mm; most new ones are 68mm.

Yes, re-use them, but keep them in the same orientation. If you've already taken them out of the wheel, at least get the "inside" and "outside" spokes back in the same places; the inside spokes have an acute angle at the elbow and the outside spokes have a slightly obtuse angle.

What does the panel think about a 3/32" stainless ring in place of a 1/8" alloy ring for small sizes? It is a 1/8" chain and sprocket so it might be marginally noisier. Unfortunately no-one seems to make 1/8" stainless steel rings.

It being an Italian frame makes this extra-likely.

Chains tend to wear slowly to begin with, but once they go they really go. The theory is that once there's a bit of clearance between the pins and the plates, bigger and bigger pieces of grit can enter and wear is accelerated.

I've had a chain with no measurable wear after five months of winter commuting - only one month after that it had almost 1/8" per foot of stretch.

An "angel" is the dump that requires no wiping. Fantastic.

Cinelli normally use an expander rather than a wedge. They are a bit more problematic.

Sheldon Brown used to use an old axle with slots cut in it as a makeshift tap.

It's a fine M10 thread, the same as a Shimano rear axle.

A cheapy hinged lockring spanner does the job for me. They don't have to be mega-tight.

Unless the hub is warranted for radial lacing, a forged hub with a low spoke count (28h) is safest. I have had a couple of radially laced standard Shimano hubs, but never put really high mileages on them.

I thought of drilling the underside of the rear fork "crown" (it's a wishbone stay design) and tapping for an M5 bolt. I can probably rig up a clamp around the base of the seat tube (I'll have to search my world-crushing collection of rear light brackets), and use P-clips on the seatstays.

Well...the frame has arrived and it turns out there is clearance for a chainring of dinner plate size with the Goldtec chainline. I guess when On-One specify a 50mm chainline they are allowing for chainsuck if you run it geared - it would probably manage a 42mm chainline as a fixie.

So the frame will remain unscathed.

Next problem...how on earth do I fit a rear mudguard...there is no seatstay or chainstay bridge...?

Hammer? This is precision work. And the bolt-on cog solution is actually a bit naff in this case, since I'd have a big heavy freehub sitting there on the LH side of the wheel going rusty. I'd rather have a double fixed hub.

Trust me, this is cheaper than the original plan of buying an early 1990s MTB frame and having track ends added.

What gearing are you running (or trying to run) that is causing the problem?
Surely if this is an off road build you could team a 13t cog with something small up front to allow for chainring/chainstay clearance on a 46.5mm chainline?
Not seen it with road/mtb frames so much but iv seen a fair few bmx frames with crimped stays go pearshaped. And that was factory crimped not diy bashing crimped.

I want to run 41 x 15, and it's for road use. 36 x 13 is about the same, but cogs so small feel horrid, accentuate any out-of-roundness and aren't as efficient.

It fits OK on my Cannondale M1000 frame, but that has vertical dropouts and the ENO hub never worked properly for me - it kept creeping every time I rode up a steep hill. Hence the frame swap.

Probably no help, but I have an ooooooooooold Inbred with a 135OLN Goldtec hub. I can just get away with a 42t ring (haven't tried bigger, but it looks iffy). I use a Campag Veloce triple (113mm spindle?), with the single ring in the middle position, but on the inside of the spider.

Haven't got a clue if the chainline's right, but it looks okay and runs smooth & quiet.

So to reiterate, no help at all.

No, that is helpful because it's more or less what I'm trying to do. I don't know what the recommended chainline for the old Inbred was, though. Hopefully there's only a couple of mm in it and the crimp will be so tiny it won't even break the paint.

There's a good series of photos here showing the DIY approach:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/singlespeedoutlaw/3650527818/

what on earth do you mean "crimp the chainstay"? whatever you are suggesting, don't do it. get a diff length bb, chainring spacers, or cog spacers.

You can't space a fixed cog on a proper fixed hub; there isn't enough thread left for the sprocket to properly engage (so the threads will strip) and/or the lockring won't go on.

Crimping the chainstay (basically squeezing a long dent into it) is common practice - most MTB frames are already crimped on the inside for tyre clearance or the outside for chainring clearance. If it is more than a tiny dent I'd get Argos Cycles to do it.

There are, apparently, no 36h black fixed hubs in existence with a wider chainline than the Goldtec. I may have to go the bolt-on route, which would be a shame as I like Goldtecs (I've been using one on the track bike for years).

I know people are running Inbreds with Goldtecs, but the older Inbred had slightly more chainring clearance.