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The pedals are worth quiiiiite a bit.
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Does anybody know any good labs in Bristol?
Peter Larkin at Bristol Cameras near St Nick's Market is excellent, I've been going there for three years or so and the prints (and the service) have always been first rate, he really knows his shit. He's quite a bit cheaper than some other places too.
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Unfortunately my crank puller and I are in Bristol, but I can tell you the pullers for TA and Stronglight cranks have veeerrry slightly different thread pitches/diameters and using the wrong one can irreparably gash your cranks. Best of luck chap
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Used to have one of these, same model year, I did my first big tour on it, bloody lovely frame, and sweet price!
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Kurust/linseed, chrome polish, elbow grease, S/H rear wheel, front brake: nice bike.
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Are you sure it's a 21"? Looks way taller in the photos
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Not gonna lie, no idea what TL:DR means, that article seems pretty good though. I'll UTFS for a frame design book, I love Jobst Brandt's 'Bicycle Wheel', I expect there's something from a similar angle. Cheers Ed
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That diagram is brilliant! If the bottom left is a track frame, what are the other three? I really need a good book on frame design...
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For now, file off those burrs so the splines are nice and square again before you put the cassette back on, or it'll just screw itself even further on. But yes, alloy freehub bodies are DUMB.
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Current Galaxy = gash. LHT is definitely the best option.
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Are you sure you've adjusted the eccentric BB properly? It should give almost 1 whole link's worth of adjustment / travel
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vibra-gate
Hetchins Vibrant / Baines Flying Gate mashup?! If so, dream bike. In a big way.
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You have PM about mine.
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I guess these use a 'top hat' nut which comes from the inside of the hanger, like an old Simplex?
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I've done lug lining plenty of times with Airfix paint and a 000 brush, takes a full evening though...
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To be honest I've been super busy and it hasn't made it to eBay yet, it will have to soon though if not interest here, the money situation is getting decidedly wobbly...
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Rear hub problem is easy: dropouts are designed for a Sturmey Archer axle, which has flats. Your single speed freewheel hub does not, so you'll need to file the axle or dropouts. A Raleigh front hub of the period is narrower than a modern one and usually doesn't have cone locknuts - the axle nut acts as the locknut with the fork end acting as the spacer. Remove spacers and locknuts as necessary, just remember to remove the same amount from each side.
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With inline post, sorted lever position and square taper crank that is in every way my dream bike. Am I doing it wrong?
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I have a TSR front rack. The one on this bike: http://www.lfgss.com/thread103533.html
I'd be willing to sell it separately, make an offer? I can't remember how much they are new -
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-T0rlwnKWsA"]Pacific
Blue: Hans Rey! - YouTube[/ame] -
Never not a cunt.
I fucking love the English language. 'Brian Sewell is a cunt' is funny, but 'Never not a cunt' made my day.
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Salsa Fargo monster tourer / fredmobile/ occasional singletrack
Singular Osprey Fixed Road w/rack and mudguards - possibly soon to be rebuilt as geared audax...
Ratty Brompton M3R (frame comprised of best bits of 3 ruined ones)
XtraCycle Free Radical on Joe Murray Kona Hahanna
Beater Peugeot road tandemIn my folks' shed:
Mint '79 Peugeot touring tandem
80s Raleigh 3speed with coaster/braklez/cream tyres
'64 Moulton Deluxe -
To clarify, my suggestion was that many of the problems with cheap bikes are in the dodgy build quality, not the parts (certainly in B'Twin's case, the parts are often half-decent). So, buy a cheap bike cheaply online and pay your LBS's experienced, dedicated mechanics to build the boxed bike for you. If you've bought a real shitter, the 1-2 hours' labour will be wasted money and better put towards a better quality bike, but if you've bought a decent machine let down by dodgy assembly then it's a real bargain. Source: 4 years mechanicking at independent LBS. Summary: B'Twin - great but make sure the bolts are tight before mad skidz.
LFGSS
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My daily driver is a '76 Raleigh 3-Speed, my all-original Peugeot tandem is '78, my Claud Butler fixed 1956 and my BSA tandem is 1926, still goes like a honky mother.