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Bump.

OK, the price is now £300 - I can't say fairer than that, Rodney!

Tel, true the current set-up is basic spec but more than does the job. Do the math on a new wheel build set up and you'll see this is good value overall.

Hi, I bought this frame earlier in the year from Zieleman, and then bought all the other parts and built it up myself. I did a few hundred miles on it, and am selling it due to lack of funds.

Batavus Professional 531 frame

Features:

• full Reynolds 531 butted tubing
  
• Bocama longpoint lugs
  
• Campagnolo dropouts
  
• chromed blades
  
• black pinstriping
  
• Seattube 61cm C-T
  
• Toptube 575mm
  
  

Popular amongst Dutch track cyclists back in the early 90s apparently, although this model has all the necessary braze-ons for a rear derailleur.

• Wheels: Ambrosio Large flange track hubs – double fixed (32hl) (Bought new)
  
• ACI Alpina S/S DB Spokes (290mm) (Bought new) + some spares
  
• Rigida Flyer 700c Rims (32hl) (Bought new)
  
• Tange Passage 1” Threaded Headset (Bought new)
  
• Vittoria Zaffiro Rigid tyres x2 (Bought new)
  
• KMC 250 chain (Bought new)
  
• SJS Fixed Sprocket (16t) 3/32” (Bought new)
  
• Shimano UN26 Bottom Bracket (Bought new)
  
• No seatpost (26.8mm width).
  
• Selle San Marco RaceGel saddle
  
• Raleigh Crank Arms (170mm) – old 70s.
  
• Race Bars, Stem (GB – Geoffrey Butler?), and brakes – don’t know what brand – salvaged off another old bike I had.
  
• Weinmann 750 brake – faulty but can be fixed.
  
• 4 x Inner Tubes
  
  

£330 – NO SPLITTING! Will leave on here for a few days and will then ebay.

Would suit someone between 5ft10-6ft.
Collection from Highgate/East Finchley (NW11).

Link to pics of the frame: http://www.flickr.com/photos/45330960@N06/?saved=1

Hi, I got these for sale if anyone's interested.

Rock Pillars climbing shoes - Size 11/46. Also includes the chalk bag.

I've literally only used these shoes twice and so they're virtually brand new. They usually retail for about £40, chalk bag for £12. Offers please.

Hi, no doubt this will cause some controversy but anyways...I used to ride hybrid with 26" wheels for many years but I recently switched to a fixed wheel at the start of the year. However, after a couple of months I took a corner too quickly and wiped out - landing on my thigh and breaking it. Looking back, I can't help but feel that it wouldn't have happened had I been riding my 26" wheeler. Now that I'm recuperating, I'm fearful about getting back on the fixed wheeler. Whatever anyone says, they're X% less stable than a bike with smaller wheels and thicker tyres.

I was cycling near the Barbican last week and, basically, I suddenly lost control of my bike (handlebars locked up on me as I tried to change direction). I went over on to my right side in a split second and broke my hip. I didn't even have time to put my arm out. Anyway, the kind surgeons placed a pin in there and hopefully in a couple of months I'll be back to normal. In the meantime it sucks big time being this immobile and in pain.

Just wanted to say thanks to the Citysprint courier who helped me out and the Irish guy.

Ride safe!

No one got experience of using BMXs?

Hi, I'm thinking of getting a layback seatpost but I'm confused as to how the clamp assembly will work with the angle of many of the layback seatpost e.g:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMX-LAYBACK-SEATPOST-18-in-length-22-2-dim_W0QQitemZ220560597976QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item335a6fa3d8

• it looks as if with my current clamp assembly would only allow me to angle the seat vertically - maybe this type would solve my problem:
  
  

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Odyssey-Snake-Layback-Post-NOS-old-school-bmx_W0QQitemZ330406148207QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item4cedbdb86f

I've used egg beaters for ages and wouldn't change back - I feel the lateral float means there's less tension at any one part of the knee.

One problem with egg beaters is on the track though; on the slopes they tend to hit the tarmac - you'd need to get the Smarty or Candy for the track.

You would have been better off taking my advice, wouldn't you! You could have had a brand new set on the road ages ago.

Hi, the frame I currently have is a touch too small. If I could just shift my bum back another inch then it'd be perfect. I know I can lengthen the stem a bit but I was wondering if there are curved seatposts rather than straight ones. I think I've seen them on BMXs. Anyone else dealt with this problem, ta.

Would suit a shorter lady i.e. < 5ft 8".

Hi, got this bike for sale. It's only been ridden a few times and cost over £110 or so when new. Yours for £55. Collection from N11 - near Arnos Grove/New Southgate(15 mins train from King's X).

When the weather's been this cold, who can blame you if you don't want to cycle outside!!!

Hi, I've got half a box of ACI Alpina S/S DB Spokes (72 in total) for sale if you're interested. In London near Highgate - otherwise can meet in the centre.

Some Bits for Sale

Some stuff for sale - collection from East Finchley/Highgate - or we can meet in the centre next time I'm in town.

Half box of 290mm ACI Alpina S/S DB Spokes Gross Box 144 (with nipples) - bought from Ribble Cycles for a wheelset I built just before Xmas - only needed half of them and so here's the other half all ready for another wheelset - £17.

Selle San Marco Race Gel saddle - bit of scuffing on the sides but nothing excessive - £10.

Frame bag - rare thing these days - barely used - £10.

Actually I was just looking at it and the chainline isn't too far off if I file down the problematic part of the spider. If I were to mount the chainring on the inside of the spider, whilst it would probably sort out the chainline by being a couple of mm closer to the bike, I would have to get a longer BB (I'm trying to avoid that).

I could probably get away with putting a 1mm spacer on the rear cog (the thread won't allow for much else I don't think). I think that'd sort it out actually. Ta for the advice.

Hi, this is the sprocket I've got from SJS Cycles. 16T Fixed Sprocket 3/32 Inch Plated Steel

It's screwed on thread first to the rear hub i.e. the flat side of the sprocket faces out from the wheel. If it was on the other way, it would move the chainline into the bike by 2mm or so - understand?

Actually, just saw a video on chainline http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/columns/bobgarage/indexb.htm

OK, looks like the solution to my problem is that I need to redish the rear wheel(plastic pedals).

However, the problem I have is that I have a set of Ambrosio Track Hubs hubs with sealed bearings & double sided fixed threads. I think this means I can't respace the rear hub in the same way it's done in that video.

However, can't I just put a spacer on the non-drive side of the hub to move the wheel over a few mm? (The problem then is that I would lose the double sided feature of the hub.)

Getting there...

290mm - I used them to build a set of wheels - Ambrosio hubs on Rigida Flyer 700c Rims.

Some stuff for sale - collection from East Finchley/Highgate - or we can meet in the centre next time I'm in town.

Half box of 290mm ACI Alpina S/S DB Spokes Gross Box 144 (with nipples) - bought from Ribble Cycles for a wheelset I built just before Xmas - only needed half of them and so here's the other half - £17.

Selle San Marco Race Gel saddle - bit of scuffing on the sides but nothing excessive - £10.

Frame bag - rare thing these days - barely used - £10.

Longer BB + Chainring on inside of spider

Yes, this would work. Not really that bothered about the look.

Need to work out exactly how long the BB should be.

Yes, longer BB with chainring on the inside would work I suppose. The chainring needs to be as close as possible to the frame in order to align with rear cog.

I would just prefer to get a 'proper' solution to this problem.

Longer BB would mean chainline being out.

A larger photo: