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Thank you! I'm just driving out to Vancouver to see some friends. There will be some cycling, but it's not the main point of the trip.

Unfortunately, as a result of 'being an adult' with 'responsibilities and obligations', I wasn't able to get as much done on this over this weekend as I'd have liked. I did indeed cut the steerer, but only enough to fit every spare 1 1/8 inch spacer I own - by my math, I think the bars should be high enough with this setup, but every Neutrino on the internet seems to have about a foot of spacers beneath the stem, which has me a bit spooked.

Speaking of the stem, I am quite pleased about the way it has worked out. Every other one of my bikes has a -17 degree stem due to vanity, which sadly is not a possibility with this frame. In my view, the only other acceptable option is the stem being parallel to the top tube, which I have achieved here by using Photoshop to inspect photos of other size small Neutrinos and thereby estimate the angle of the top tube. There are not very many -4 degree stems on the market, but the Zipp SL-OS is one, if you use it on a 1 1/8 inch steerer with the ±2 degree shim that used to be included with it.

I have less than one week's worth of evenings and weekends to build this before I take it away on a trip.

• The drivetrain I have planned is somewhat ambitious and I really hope it works.
  
• I have never set up hydraulic disc brakes before.
  

I think some more attractive chain rings and bars with less drop and BDHU would sort this out nicely. The stem looks short relative to the top tube as well, so if you get bars that also have less reach then you could correspondingly lengthen the stem.

If this helps you with your calculations at all, I bought a small and the distance from the top of the seat tube to the top bottle cage boss is 180 mm. Assuming that the bottle cage bosses are in the same position relative to the bottom bracket between sizes, that would make the equivalent distance on a large (assuming this is what you bought) 230 mm.

For what it's worth, with my saddle rails to bottom bracket measurement (660 mm) on a size small Neutrino (360 mm seat tube), I should be able to get 180 mm of drop with a OneUp V2 (which has the most drop per length of any dropper I've been able to find; most others would give me 150 mm), resulting in 120 mm of post above the seat tube when dropped. I think that's not bad. I'm just trying to decide if I should go with a dropper or a flexible carbon post instead.

Hello! I did change the clamp. I'm using a clamp assembly for the Giant Contact Switch seat post, Giant part number 150000028 for 7 mm metal rails or 150000048 for 9 mm carbon rails. I got it at my LBS.

If you're not able to find that, the people in the Softride Facebook group report having success with this Bontrager part or its J&L clone. I don't have experience with either of those because the Giant part works well for me, and I prefer it in theory because it has a longer support area for the saddle rails.

Your left lever is 2009-2010 Ultra-Shift, while your right lever is 2011-2014 Power-Shift. Power-Shift was introduced in 2011 but only in the lower lines (Athena 11, Centaur 10, Veloce 10).

If I recall correctly, Potenza uses a different spring tension in the rear derailleur, so although that setup will work in the short term, the imbalance between spring tensions in the derailleur and the shifter will cause drift over the long term and require constant adjustment.

I knew I recognized that wall. You build the best bikes.

Thanks for the reply! I'll keep an eye out for future runs.

Hi Graeme, these all look great. Is everything in olive or will you be making anything in black for this run?

A bunch of these NOS went up for sale on eBay yesterday. They're also selling them without box for $10 less. They also had black but those sold out quickly (but not before I was able to grab the last front-only for my sweet fixie).

This thread kind of makes me wish I'd splashed out for Paul brake levers for my Softride because they're quite nice, but also kind of not because apparently every man, woman and child has a pair.

It's strange how oddly flaccid the stem looks even though it's pointing almost straight upwards. I personally cannot wait to see how the build turns out.

Way too much - I use about 4 Nm. I generally adhere to the philosophy that when clamping around cylinders you want to use as little torque as will keep your part where you want it under normal use. You don't want to crush anything.

Hi Stephan, I'd be willing to part with the Heds. I'll send you a message.

I agree, not Colnago. The cutouts in the lugs would be clubs and the seat stay caps would have 'Colnago' stamped into them. Here's a good resource.

The cable heads are different as well. Shimano ones are slightly larger and thus will not fit properly.

The Campagnolo CG-ER600 set comes with all of the cables you need to do a bike, works well, lasts a long time and is honestly very good value compared to other cable sets. It also comes in white (CG-ER600W).

For what it's worth, Campagnolo also introduced a new 'The Maximum Smoothness' gear cable set with their 12-speed groupsets, which people on Weight Weenies say are good but which I haven't tried because they are wildly expensive and teflon-coated (the coating can deteriorate inside the housing over time, eventually impeding function), and because my normal Campagnolo cables continue to work well.

Something to be aware of is the bolts. At some point Campagnolo switched to a threaded inner chain ring, which obviously requires different bolts. I'm converting 2012 Centaur Carbon Power-Torque 10-speed cranks to 11-speed using Stronglight CT2 chain rings, which are threaded while the original Centaur ones are not. I had to buy a set of FC-SR200 bolts to make it work.

It looks like the TA Nerius inner ring is not threaded, which I wish I would have known before I bought the Stronglights. TA does make a set of bolts that will work with their non-threaded chain rings, if the set of bolts that came with your crankset are for threaded chain rings. I suspect that the Campagnolo FC-RE303s (this is what my Centaur crankset came with) would also work.

Basically, if the chain rings you are replacing are threaded, buy the Stronglights. If they're not threaded, buy the TAs. (I'm a little embarrassed to say that I chose the Stronglights because I think they look better, which is a decision I regret now.)

Sorry, I missed this somehow. The powder coat is an almost black base with some metallic flake. I don't remember exactly since it was a custom mix and I had it done a few years ago, although maybe I should have written it down because it turned out pretty well. It's glittery if you shine a light over it but otherwise quite subtle. There's a gloss clear coat over the powder, but the film actually provides a little extra depth to it. Here's a shot of the full bike.

I've done the paint protection film for one of my bikes. Most tubes only require rectangles, but for non-easy geometries such as seat tube cutouts, I formed taped-together sheets of paper around the tubes, traced the outlines with a pencil, scanned the paper, traced it in Rhino (Illustrator or whatever software you would prefer would also work of course - I'm just most comfortable in Rhino), printed it out, glued it to the backing of the film, cut it out with scissors, and then applied it to the frame with soapy water.

It was a bit of work but worth it. I for some reason did every tube other than the top tube, which now has a light scuff on it (non-drive-side, thankfully). I am of course regretting this, so I'll be doing the top tube as well when time permits.

The hardest part may be sourcing the film. I have a friend who is a car wrapper, and he gave me some offcuts.

Maybe the only acceptable use for eTap AXS.

Fairly certain it's a Berk Lupina.

Very nice work and a good read. I too learned about the all-steel M5100 11-42 cassette after it was too late (after I bought two M8000 cassettes, so I'm very much committed to two-tone now).

Something to think about the next time you work on the cables is putting a short length of PTFE tube inside the metal cable guide at the bottom bracket and then running the inner cable through that. It'll reduce shifting friction and wear on the cable guide.

Finally, did you by any chance buy the YBN chain from AliExpress? If so, do you have a seller recommendation? I'm in the market for another SLA110 but there are so many sellers and it's hard to know which ones are good.

Thanks all.

@elllguapo The post is a PMP, and there's no converter - the fork and headset are both one-inch threadless. All the details are in my projects thread.

@Ndeipi I appreciate it, but those are just the stock Campagnolo 11-speed pulleys!