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Could either bolt through or screw into the solid battens behind it. I'm confident that a fixing like a coach bolt properly attached would mean that effectively the whole window frame/sill/under-sill cabinet would need to come loose in order for the ladder to fall (and that's bigger than the window!), but what I'm not sure about is what type of bracket/climbing anchor etcto fix to the wood with a coach bolt, if you catch my drift!
In climbing centres what do they use at the top of a top rope route? I'd assume something like that would be best.
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Nope. We're installing it because we're in an old Glasgow tenement building with one stairwell, on a street where a couple of other buildings have burned to the ground in the last few years, and the idea is to give us an alternative escape route to be used in an absolute emergency. I'm aware that these are a requirement if you're converting an attic into a bedroom for an HMO in England though.
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Some slightly off-topic advice needed please.
I'm installing a fire escape ladder in my gable end bathroom. It's effectively a rope ladder that has two loops for carabiners and it will attach to the inside of a wooden cupboard that's been reinforced for the purpose of supporting it. I'm thinking to attach the carabiners to slings that will go through some kind of ground anchor fixing. But I don't know what to look for/what spec to aim for for that fixing. Does anyone have any tips?
From looking at the listings for escape ladders it appears that people use a mix of climbing anchors like Petzl Coeur bolts (if in concrete/stone) and random steel plate fixings (if in wood) but I wouldn't mind over-speccing this to be sure it's safe.
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I'm installing a fire escape ladder in my gable end bathroom. It's effectively a rope ladder that has two loops for carabiners and it will attach to the inside of a wooden cupboard that's been reinforced for the purpose of supporting it. I'm thinking to use climbing carabiners attached to slings that go through some kind of ground anchor fixing. But I don't know what to look for/what spec to aim for for that fixing. Does anyone have any tips?
From looking at the listings for escape ladders it appears that people use a mix of climbing anchors like Petzl Coeur bolts (if in concrete/stone) and random steel plate fixings (if in wood) but I wouldn't mind over-speccing this to be sure it's safe.
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I once had a chat with the guy who runs the Finnish Sauna in that church in Rotherhithe (top recommendation btw, it can be hired for relatively cheap: https://lontoo.merimieskirkko.fi/the-finnish-church-in-london/) and I asked him why more people in the UK didn't have home saunas like in Finland, and he said it was a planning/building control issue that prevented most people who wanted to from putting one in - you might want to make sure that whatever you're planning is within the regs.
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After a debacle involving some cowboy fitters and a big extra outlay on our part, I'm selling some pretty much pristine rolls of Colour Flooring Company Citron Vinyl, in the following approximate sizes:
200cm x 90cm
100cm x 100cm
250cm x 170cmI'd like to shift this all as a lot, and we're asking for £120. There's approx 6sqm there and it retails at £32/sqm: https://www.colourflooring.co.uk/collections/vinyl-flooring/products/lemon-vinyl-flooring-1.
I'm based in Glasgow but postage can be arranged at cost. HMU if you want a pengy yellow floor.
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I've put down some yellow Colour Flooring Company vinyl in my bathroom and now I want to finish it off with a yellow transition strip - does anyone know of a company that does them in primary colours? My Googling is only finding 'light yellow oak' or 'gold' as related colour options...
Could always paint a raw wood one if necessary but would prefer to use something that more closely matches the vinyl!
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I'm laying a new ply subfloor for lino in our bathroom, the floorboards underneath are pretty lumpy and the 2mm ply I'm taking up is flexing over the voids. Is there any clever stuff I can use between the ply and the floorboards to fill the voids, some of which are up to 5mm? Or would I just be better off with thicker ply instead that can span the gaps with less flex?
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I need to cut an elliptical hole for a 32mm waste pipe to pass through a wooden wall panel at a 45 degree angle - does anyone know, is this doable with a holesaw and an in situ jig (ie some bits of wood)? Is there an established method for this?
Or should I just cut slightly larger round holes and fill the gaps?
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Cool thanks all. Going to go for Coeur anchors with M12 coach screws into the battens behind/under the cabinet. Tbh I'd expect that the ply itself would hold the screw sufficiently but going into solid wood behind will give that peace of mind.
You can get versions of the ladders with built-in hooks like @chiroshi suggests but because it's a tenement the sill is too deep for them to be suitable.