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Looks excellent, mf.

You might find that saddle fore, aft and angle adjustment all affect how much weight you are putting on your hands and how your pelvis and back are positioned. For example I have found that putting my saddle back slightly (i.e. a few mm) gets more of my weight behind the pedals and reduces weight on my hands. (Putting the saddle back requires a compensatory change in saddle height.)

Could be worth trying some saddle position changes rather than focussing entirely on stem and bars.

No, the person that has been looking after my two hummers for several years had one available.

A few years ago a large number of NOS movements appeared on Ebay but they appear to have gone now.

Unfortunately the watchmaker concerned is retiring soon so I will have to find someone else to work on these if / when the need arises.

If I still rode a bike, I might feel a bit miffed by this.

It’s an absolute mess.

Garmin 245 Music, barely used, no significant marks.

SOLD £90 including UK post - for watch and charger cable only.

Bolt v2 for sale. Less than a year old. Excellent condition, screen unmarked, a few signs of light use around the edges of the case. Excuse the dust on the photos.

Head unit only

£135 incl UK post.

SOLD

This one has had to go to hospital a few times recently unfortunately. To cut a long story short, my only option was to replace the movement with NOS ESA.

Forgive me for bumping this and looking at it from a different angle - are there any reasons not to use a shim?

Laka code, if anyone needs one:

https://my.laka.co/U4YSH

Hi,

Can anyone suggest a good ti seatpost, 31.6 mm, 10-20mm setback, other than USE, Alpkit, or Alpina? I am drawing a blank aside from various Aliexpress items.

Thomson only do 27.2 mm.

Would consider shimming but ideally I want one the right size for my frame.

The combination of very grippy flat shoes, grippy pedals, and small contact area means my foot can’t rotate and I think this might be contributing to some recent knee trouble, hence trying something else out. May well end up going back to the MKS if it turns out I need a removable pedal (although the T-line ones are tempting me).

The Compact Ezy pedal and the adapters are good - perhaps a little narrow for the larger of foot. I did feel the sides of my shoes were hanging off the sides a bit.

On another different note, I have just noticed this minute that my Brompton seems to have an alarming amount of play in the steering.

I was wearing a headtorch when cleaning the Brompton the other day and accidentally got a good view down the tubes of the triangle when I had the bike upside down. Rust well under way, big orange flakes of it. About 2200km, never left outside, just coming up to a year old.

On a different note, I haven’t been getting on too well with the MKS Compact Ezys and in a bid to rule them out as suspects in some recent knee woe, I have swapped to non-removable, larger flats - Shimano EF202. Now to see how much I miss being able to take the left pedal off.

I saw one in Putney a couple of days ago going along nicely. Can’t remember if it had a rack or not.

If I were to be fortunate enough to own a T-line, I think I’d feel obliged to ensure any such rack is also made of ti.

I have had exactly the same on my Bolt v2. It only happened once. I agree that it needs the combination of poor GPS signal + zooming out and in due to failure to update location. I haven’t replicated those conditions and I rarely need to zoom out so it doesn’t bother me much.

Best wishes, Tom.

How is the T-line one week in? Is yours 4 speed - any skipping or other gear issues?

Excellent.

My only Brompton regret is not getting a dynamo from the outset.

Looks decent and I can understand the QR choice, but it looks as if it has IS mounts which I am less sure about. OK if you want BB7s I guess.

Rapha seem to be taking 4 days and counting to even process an order at the moment, never mind send it out. Still, they quickly sent out an email telling me how to look after what I have ordered, so I can peruse that in the meantime.

That Brain Dead stuff is completely gash.

Is that because that’s roughly the rate at which is disappears / evaporates? I’ve been trying out checking how much is in there by way of dipping a cable tie into the valve, and if it looks a bit low then I top up with about half what the initial fill was. 2 month checks so far, looks safe to extend that to 3 months.

These Cinturatos are turning out to be an excellent suggestion in response to my original query:

What is the equivalent to a GP 4 Seasons that comes in a 38 (or 35 maybe) and works well as tubeless?

So cheers!

How are you all deciding when to top up sealant and how much to use to top up, if you don’t have or choose not to heed manufacturers’ recommendations?

Awesome. I take it that required a custom fork and triangle for the disc brakes?

Kind of fits with some of the driving I’ve seen near Pembroke Lodge car park:

One driver overtook another at Pembroke Lodge to nab a parking space. The other driver punched him, kicked him and pulled him out of his vehicle.

Great to see the beginnings of work to replace the temporary cones and barriers.

There are different methods but I just use the big ring / largest cog routine as below. Has always worked for me - including the modification for 1x set-ups:

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing

Adding one link at a time until it is right means you could end up with more joins than necessary which I try to avoid, and also you’d end up with your multiple joins at the same part of the chain.

Having said that 2 joins is fine. I have done this on the Surly (1 quick link and 1 joining rivet, separated by half a dozen links) as standard length chains weren’t long enough for 1x11 + Trucker chainstays.