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Actually I am wrong with that 60-63psi, no idea how I got that. 48 or 50 psi is what the Silca one recommends.

Added sealant this morning and went for a short settling in ride. I can’t quite believe it myself, but I think I got a puncture on this, the very first ride. Rode for a few km, stopped briefly, noticed a drip of gloopy sealant hanging from a spoke, turned the wheel a bit and there was a small sealant patch on the tyre but no bubbling or sign of anything. Unless it was a drip of sealant that had been clinging on to a spoke for 4 km - unlikely.

Carbon fibres, I should have said. There surely must be better options energy / pollution-wise.

I ask because the tyre pressure calculators would have me at 60-63psi using the stated 35mm width, but in fact they are the same width as tyres that I ran at 40psi (the GKs).

For anyone interested in the Silca sealant (and replenisher) I have just changed tyres after several months using the Silca, and one dose of replenisher along the way.

I’ve read a few posts elsewhere mentioning that this sealant damages rim tape and / or dries out.

It certainly didn’t dry out (although was replenished, as per the Silca directions). Plenty sloshing about in there. Very little string formation. One substantial clump of sealant and fibres firmly attached inside each tyre, which fits the puncture history. And the rim tape seems fine.

However - I am a bit concerned that there is a lot of wear along the inside centre of each tyre - a 1cm band around the periphery where the casing appears to be threadbare. I wonder if the carbon fibre particles in this stuff are perhaps a bit too abrasive?

I’ve just fitted a pair of 35s. Quite tough to get on the rim compared to the Gravelkings, but seated easily first time with soapy water and an Airshot. I am going to leave them sitting overnight at max pressure (72psi in this case) and all being well bung the sealant in tomorrow.

Surprisingly they appear to be just as wide as the 38 mm GKs they have replaced. That suits me fine and also means I won’t need to adjust my mudguards.

Anyone else using 35mm in the Cinturato Velo? What pressures are you using?

Does this H&H pedal holder fit MKS removable pedals or is it specific to H&H’s own?

https://bikegang.ecwid.com/Pedal-Holder-for-Titanium-Spindle-Left-Detachable-Pedal-H&H-Front-Fork-Caliper-Brake-or-Rear-Wheel-Spindle-Nut-Position-Install-p447112471

Very impressive looking bike.

Thanks for that. I had been considering the Exposures for another bike (seat post mounting on that one) and it’s a great light.

I already have a high seat post mounted light on the Brompton (I think the underseat position would get obscured some of the time) , but I wanted to add a permanently fixed light making use of the existing bracket. Never comfortable with only one light at the back.

I tried the Rapha Brevet jacket recently and sent it back: far too short at the back. Some of their own photos show it:
https://www.rapha.cc/gb/en/shop/mens-brevet-gore-tex-rain-jacket/product/BAA01XXDPW
It's also intended as a packable jacket so not very substantial.

I replaced it with the Rapha Classic winter jacket, a much better shape for me, warmer, but not as packable. Probably too warm for much above 10 degrees if you are going at any pace. But it's a great jacket and, so far, properly waterproof. Fabric is very prone to picking up marks though so would get a darker colour.

If you want something for "general rides where it could rain" would jerseys + packable rain jacket not be better? Shakedry in the back pocket?

On the reflector bracket?

What’s the best rear light to go on the Brompton reflector bracket? I want a permanently fixed light. I don’t have a dynamo. I am thinking replaceable batteries rather than rechargeable.

B&M flat senso
B&M 2C - rechargeable but considering
Spanninga

Seem to be the options.

Nothing drastic but they are definitely a little smoother to ride, more compliant on crappy surfaces.

Edited to add: and I feel I can get away with a little less pressure - I have them at R 100 psi, F 95 psi vs 5 or 10 higher with the Marathons. 80kg rider.

I see SJS have the Contact Urban for Brompton at £19 which is not too bad.

A reliable tubeless setup would be really well suited to commute bike use. The time when you least want to get a flat, in the place where you least want to have to change a tube.

But aside from the practicalities (the Contact Urban isn’t tubeless ready anyway), I think a Brompton at 70psi would be hard work even with a tubeless tyre. They seem to need to be up around 100psi and I doubt if that would be much less tubeless. I’m not sure if sealant reliability is there yet at those sort of pressures.

I think they ride a bit better with some weight on the front.

I have the Brompton Borough basket bag for bigger stuff and for work I use the medium Messenger, which itself can carry a fair bit.

MKS Compac Ezy pedals: I can confirm that these will come off if you mislay your yellow C-clip. At least if you wear size 50 grippy flat soled shoes. Off twice on the way to work. Used a reusable zip tie to replace the C-clip - just the right width, and removable.

For future reference, I got this Cyclo spanner which is an excellent job for the limited space available to fit these:

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20027764/15mm-Single-Head-Cone-Spanner/product_info.html

Love all this. What a lovely fork.

What’s needed for a 4 speed conversion?

• wheel with suitable hub
  
• 4 speed cassette
  
• 4 speed shifter?
  
• different derailleur??
  

whats ya budget?

Not even approaching what it costs for the triangle / fork sets I’m afraid.

I’ve just done the MKS pedals, about to fit a JK handlebar (and new grips) - that will have to do for Brompton expenditure for now!

I wonder if the more efficient way to get a lighter Brompton is to sell my C-line Explore and get a P-line. Given that there is a major chunk of weight in the 3 speed hub.

Brompton telescopic post = 706 grams

Ti Parts Workshop Titanium 600mm - 284 grams

That’s a fair old chunk.

Should I swap out my Marathon tyres to Conti Urban?

I think that is worth doing. A nicer ride, less rotating mass, and a little weight saving.

I guess ti triangle and forks are the next biggest weight saving targets but sadly out of my budget.

The ti post has always struck me as a very expensive way to save not a lot of weight.

Pedals?

I have a Pedro burly pedal spanner, but for the MKS Ezy you need something thin - their own spanner is only 3.2 mm - whereas for your pedals even the fattest 15mm spanner would work.

That’s what I used, but it’s not a good quality cone spanner and wasn’t really up to the task. My actual pedal spanner is too thick for the limited clearance with these MKS. Something like this, or MKS’ own pedal spanner, would be a better job:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/cyclo-forged-pedal-spanner-15-15-mm/

Noted, cheers J.

I have used the washers but will reconsider if advice to the contrary comes along.

The process has reminded me that I need a better slim pedal spanner.

I’ve done a trial fit, and it doesn’t seem to make any difference to the clicking in or releasing. Leaning towards washers, as I can see that on the drive side a very slight bit of brinelling has occurred, and a ridge has formed which I have filed down.

Fitting MKS Ezy pedals - instructions say IF crank has a recess, use the washers, and if there is no recess, don’t, as it may “cause malfunction of the Ezy adapter”. The Brompton cranks don’t have a recess, but I think it’s better to use washers anyway. Yay or nay?