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An interesting possibility - would the bike remain rideable after that? I rode mine the rest of the way into work OK, it's stuck on the smaller cog. If I try to shift to the larger cog it doesn't shift and is a bit noisy, as if it is trying to shift on.
I have just had a look. The circlip seems to be there, no idea what the ping was. Everything seems intact. I think the issue is that the derailleur is / was being impeded by crap. I can't believe how bogging the bike is around the derailleur area.
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The official Assos outlet is, I believe, here: https://www.assosoutlet.com/gb/
I happened to come across this site:
https://www.outletassos.comNote the improbable prices. Am I right to be suspicious? Has anyone bought from them?
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Rain is seeping through the taped seams that run along the front of the arms, easy to see if I am wearing a light coloured base layer / jersey underneath.
Agree that this may not be Rapha specific, but given that the fabric seems to work really well on the shoulders and everywhere else, I can’t help thinking that if the seams had been placed elsewhere the jacket would be much better.
I bought a Shakedry (Gore Race) around the same time and I am glad I did. Fit around the shoulders is a bit weird though so the search continues for jacket perfection.
Thanks for the link JB, I had already saved a similar page from 7Mesh:
https://7mesh.com/gore-tex-product-careNot too sure about the advice to “wash, dry, repeat often” with these DWR fabrics. Even after using the correct products and methods, they are never the same again after washing. My approach is to try to avoid needing to wash them more than absolutely necessary.
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Have to say I am a bit disappointed with my Rapha Classic Goretex jacket after a few months use. It’s a great jacket for most rides, fits great, seems well put together and all that, but the upper arms let in water even in moderate sustained rain. There are just too many seams going on there.
I guess the use of the description “highly water resistant” rather than waterproof should have been a clue. In fact the rest of the jacket is great, the shoulders stay dry, but the arms... -
Oh OK. I ask because 1) I remember, earlier in the thread, someone who was fitting a rack being advised to cut the rear guard shorter and 2) that guy on the prototype has been flinging some mud - but it might be because he doesn’t have the little angled bit on the rear guard and has been doing some off-road testing.
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I have the 3 season pocket bibs. Very pleased with them - the pad and pad positioning is excellent for me. Warmth wise, I think Albion has it about right: good for all but the coldest of southern UK days.
Sizing: I found them to be slightly smaller than I expected for their size, but not enough to warrant sizing up.Whereas the Rain Trousers - I think these need a size between M and L.
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I bought L and M Zoa rain trousers to try. I'm 1.86m, 81kg.
L worked but only if I was wearing heavy normal trousers underneath, otherwise the waist simply doesn't close enough (I usually go for a 33" or 34" waist in jeans). Leg length was OK, perhaps a touch long.
M was the best fit overall, fitting well enough over bibs and with enough room around the waist for heavy trousers underneath. A little less roomy in the leg than the L but I can live with it, seems to be plenty of room around the knee.The thing with the side velcro closure is that there is not much adjustment in it - the width of the strip where the velcro can oppose and fasten is quite narrow.
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Thanks joepud01 and @tb55.
As well as being oversized around the waist, are they long in the leg too?
The Albion sizing guide for these is not that helpful. I’m 1.86m, 81kg. Usually take a 34 waist and 33 or 34” leg in jeans. Given what you have said I am dithering between M and L.
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A while back I changed my Surly Trucker fork from QR to TA. Axle to crown race height and rake were the same. Built up the bike as planned, and all good. However, post build, there was a mild but noticeable wheel flop. Tyre size changed from 35 (Marathon Supremes) to 38 (GK slick). However, I assumed this was due to some difference between the two forks and didn’t think the tyre size change was significant.
Not so. Flop gone after changing back to the 35s.
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It might be worth taking a tube out and seeing if the tyre will seat using the track pump, with the valve core out, assuming the rim is taped. Be liberal with very soapy water on the beads.
If it doesn’t, then you will know neither track pump nor compressor will work.
If they don’t work then whichever you choose to use will need some sort of reserve tank to produce a blast.The idea being to get all this sorted before any sealant is involved.
Thanks @sbbohr, as above I think some serious cleaning up is needed. I can now get it to shift but it is a bit noisy on the large cog.
Edited to add: having now had a closer look, I think this was just down to grit on the spline or tube that the derailleur slides on. There does seem to be a massive amount of grit around from our council’s ongoing experiments in shitty road repair methods. It’s quite sticky grit, due to the treacle or whatever cheapo tar subsitute they use. In retrospect I think the ping I heard was more of a crunch-ping, as I mashed one of these bits of anthracite with my cogs.