Search results for:

Sorry RPM, bad wording. My question was really how it would be handled in a racing scenario where things are more sensitive to error.
Assuming all riders are experienced, let's say I look back and there's no one behind me, I rush the gap on rider 3 as you mention, is it then an acceptable tactic to overtake close enough to pin rider 3 in place until you've moved past, knowing that he would look before moving from his position(as Oz mentions below)?

If no.3 hasn't moved out yet I wouldn't allow him the space to move

Thanks, this is really helpful. I'll try your exercise Adman. I looked back before initially moving out, but didn't get enough of a look to be sure I could move out further, 3 seconds later. So observing the field is something I'll practice.

You're talking about the intermediate training session at HH? if so it's not a race, so look before you move and so should the others.

Well yes, but I'm applying the situation as a general scenario. I'd imagine you'd expect the same discipline from riders whether racing or not.

I have relatively little experience on the track, so I want to learn the correct and safe ettiquette of riding in a group thoroughly. I've noticed in the intermediates at Herne Hill people are often all over the place, moving without looking etc.
I have a very basic question about the scenario below which I found myself in, I wanted to know the correct way to deal with it.

It's the final sprint of a race. Riders 1 & 2 are traveling along side each other. I am at the back and intend to move past all three. I move up along the outside, but as I approach rider 3, he moves out to accelerate past 1 & 2. I am already traveling faster than him and don't have time to look back over my shoulder.
I don't want to slow down and lose my speed, but cannot be sure I won't be moving across someone's path if I pull out further.
Where should I have been and what would be the correct way to deal with this?
Should I be allowing enough space when I innitially pull out to accomodate no. 3's move?

Also, something I think I need to improve is my ability to take then wind at the front when my legs are tired.
I can keep up in the group at a fast pace for a long time, but as soon as it's my turn on the front half a lap and I'm dead. A slight increase in pace and I'm practically finished.
Is this something I need to work on, or is it just something that will come with better fitness?

Good point, how does one go about getting a storage space at Herne Hill? I forgot to ask this yesterday.

I use a Cateye V3 (speed, cadence, HR). I'm pretty sure we're allowed to use them, I've not heard otherwise.

Some stats from today if anyone's interested.

Time in motion: 1:35
Total distance: 34.6 miles
Average speed: 21.7 mph
Average cadence (48 x 15) 87 rpm
Max Speed: 33 mph, 133 rpm (that was the last lap of the rotation in the first half).

That was a great session. Amazing turnout as well, I can't believe so many people came.
I feel pleasantly faster than last year.

I have a very nice specialized allez (2008). Not sure if this interests you, but if it is ill get pics over. Would want 400 for the bike. It's 58cm

You can get a new Allez for £400.

Presumably induction and beginners will also begin this Saturday? I can't imagine the turnout being great this time of year.

Ooo, what bike have you bought?

I once saw a guy with what looked like a colander on his head with an LED poking through every hole. He was waving at everyone he passed. Very bizarre.

Come on good weather!

I'm in if it's on.

Lol 'campanology'.

Love these bikes, but unfortunately too small and too pink for me. Have a bump.

Large Nelson Pista frame. Could make a bargain for someone looking for a cheap alu frame.


Or this: http://www.lfgss.com/thread9050-15.html#post1966489

Ooo, worse than mine then. You could surly get them returned under warranty in that case? They sold you a faulty product.

Also, if you wanted to upgrade, Veloflex do higher market gumwalls. I'm running Master 22s now and the build and ride quality is miles ahead of tourguards. Worth the investment.

Steven,
I've bought two sets of the TGs now and have encountered two rips like you describe.
Ride it, and just keep an eye on what happens. One of my rips wasn't really a problem. It just stayed as a lump on the sidewall.
The other one gradually got bigger and bigger until I gave into the fear of a high-speed blow out and replaced it, but it took a good month of commuting before that point, so it's not fast.

Sheldon Brown says a tire should be replaced if "the tire's fabric has been damaged, so that the tire has a lumpy, irregular appearance somewhere, or the tube bulges through the tire."
But then goes onto say that "gumwall tires sometimes get unsightly blistering on the sidewalls from ozone damage. (This is frequently caused by storing the bike near a furnace--the powerful electric motors in typical furnaces can put a fair amount of ozone into the air.) This blistering is ugly, but doesn't actually compromise the safety/reliability of the tire in the least."
I don't quite know whether that applies in this case. I would either get a refund, or ride them and see if it gets worse. Put the suspect tire on the rear wheel and you should be alright.

Just found this website, it's a gold mine of great photos.

Bargain FSA. Is it a genu-ine track model?
Wish I needed a cheap crankset.

The thing is, that's quite a lot for such an old groupset. £210 would get you quite an acceptable complete bike with Shimano 600. Have a look at this and note the price for the whole bike:
http://www.lfgss.com/thread59459.html
Even that hasn't sold yet!

You'd probably make some decent enough money if you split though.

I definitely would, if it were only a tad bigger.

I cocked up on this, having not realised its value. I am normally respectful of dibs; as mentioned to those involved, this is not something I would normally consider. If anyone's confused, I got an offer significantly higher than this which I couldn't refuse. As the first dibee had not confirmed anything yet, I was honest with him and apologised in a PM for backing out.
Skully, you're right, offers starting at £200 would have been better, although I had it in my head I might not even get that, so thought I'd be modest.
Big mistake on this, again apologies to anyone messed about. I'll make damn sure I get my pricing right in future. Lesson for other people here too!

LukeSkywaywalker dropped out, so forks are available again. Also added MKS chaintug, which I just found in my shoe (true story).