Search results for:

Resurrecting this as I'm after one of them nice shiney levers.

Has anyone got a spare? Or want to go halves on a new pair? They're £60 from wiggle.

Meh. Under cadenced. grumble grumble
I guess you must like them spinning past you again at the traffic lights though? :)

Anyway, I'd go for a 1/8 sprocket and chain. You can run it with a 3/32 chainring no problem.

Alright alright. But I really like cruising past other cyclists at 70 rpm...

So I would need either a larger sprocket (18T) or smaller chainring (43T...)

Recommendations for a 3/32 18T sprocket?

You don't need 90" in the street, that's craaazy. Plus you can get over 30mph easily enough on ~75", do your knees a flavor.

The tabs are not at all suitable for the purpose, so forget the tabs.
Using a solid spacer as I mentioned, so long as everything is nice and secure, is very stable. The axel can't go anywhere, you'd have to crush the spacer for it to slip, which is not going to happen.

I think for safety sake the front axle should be fully within the dropout, by dropping the axle lower in the drop out you could be on a short cut to the local casualty department. The tabs in an earlier photo are usually found on kids bikes or cheap bikes.

I'm about to go to Argentinian Tango lessons for the second time. I'm really enjoying it.
Not only that, but as a result I took the bus today instead of cycling, due to sartorial inconvenience.
I'm not gay.

The stunt peg really makes it perfect though.

Freddie, these will not do what you're trying to do.
They are merely designed to keep the wheel in position in the dropout if the bolt comes loose. They are not engineered to bear any load.

The way you're looking to use them, in the event of the wheel slipping your entire weight would be suspended on those little tabs, which I imagine would fail very painfully. Someone said on here once, and this is very wise advice: Thou shalt not fuck with that which is load bearing.

What I can recommend however, is making a spacer by snipping off a small piece of spoke, (or you could use a ball bearing from an old headset or something) and placing it in the dropout. Put a little blob of blue tack on the back to help stop it rolling out while you're installing the wheel. Then just drop the wheel on top, make sure it's sitting snugly on the spacer so it won't roll around, and tighten it up like a beast.
The spacer doesn't actually need to support very much weight, but having your axle suspended in the dropouts will likely result in slippage, so it's just there to assist the bolts do their job. I've been riding on this myself for a while and it's rock solid.

*emphasis on educated. Or just get fitted to keep DJ happy.
How much does a fitting cost?

I don't see any harm with a bit of educated-messing-about for the murray with the components she's already got. I learned loads about fit initially from doing this.

Murray, you've got an old conversion, right? Just do loads of research on fit, get it as best you can with what you've got and see where you're at. No need to start throwing money at it just yet.

Sorry, delayed reply much. I got mine here[U][/U]. Or hubjub.

ok cheers.

where did you get your drops from?

I think the general consensus is to set the saddle position using KOPS, then adjust reach with stem length/frame size. Moving the saddle back will mess around the leg position in relation to bottom bracket. Although if you're worried about comfort over performance then by all means.

Saddle angle forwards will put a lot of strain on your upper body to stop you sliding off and potentially make your shoulders worse. Make sure your saddle fits properly (your weight should be on your seat bones, not in between) and you shouldn't have too much of a problem with squishing. And some good shorts. Failing that, HTFU.

Cheers weslito. Did a bit of fiddlin, raised the bars to the max (which ain't that high) and moved the saddle back a bit cos I felt all a bit scrunched up. Tilted my saddle forward too to stop the lady-bits getting squished but the guys in my bikeshop today said never do that. I'll put it back to level, but if squishing persists I might have to buy a ladies saddle.

At no point has he said he cant stop, his question was -

was your granny ran over by a brakless fixxie skidder?

No, my granny used to ride on the track though when she was younger, awesome woman.
And a brakeless kid skidded into the back of me last night so I'm freshly pissed off. If they did that to my granny I'd be pretty gutted.

You're right he didn't say he can't stop, but he's asking about gear ratios, which is a very basic subject. I'd say there's a good chance he can't stop properly.

Even more on topic, get off the road altogether! It amazes me how some people are selfish enough to ride a bike they can't stop.
If you want to get hit by a car, by all means do so, but if you take out someone's grandma because you're too incompetent to ride safely, you'd better hope to God I don't see it.

And for that reason, you're a nob cheese.

Good tyres won't stop everything getting through. Yes, they can go a long way to help reduce punctures, but you can never eliminate them entirely.

Perhaps, but I'm on 3 years with no punctures. That's near eliminated as far as I'm concerned.
Still, I carry tools, no need to tempt fate.

6yrs riding in london
0 punctures
win

2 years riding road bikes. never happened yet.

How much of this malarkey is due to bad luck/shoddy manufacturing, and how much is improper installation?

Any good links to cycling position and posture? My current position leaves me with a bar of tension across my shoulders, yet I was really careful getting the right frame size for my height

http://sheldonbrown.com/pain.html#shoulders
http://tinyurl.com/ydtmsvh

Google is your friend here.

Sounds like it's too small. what's the standover like?

Or too big, having to stretch too far/too much weight forwards.

Murray, just do lots of research with Google and mess around with different positions/setups. Failing that, go to a bike shop and get fitted. They'll sort you out.

I've got one in SW6 if that's any easier :)

I really don't think gear ratio is as important as technique, although it's definitely easier to learn on a low ratio. I learned on an easiesh gear in the wet to get the hang of it, but now it's easy enough to skid from the saddle, regardless of traction/gear (within reason). Having the right technique provides you with very good leverage.

Although, having watched my Armadillo steadily disintegrate and considering how ineffective it is 90% of the time, I think it's pretty dumb.

http://www.lfgss.com/thread3196.html

Tynan's brilliant picture is missing now though.

I've got some 40cm Nitto B125's I forgot to send back when trying out loads of bars (oops). Brand new - £25?

These drops. From me.

Fucking Westminster!
They've got a lane closed outside the Houses of Parliament at the moment, complete with non-functioning traffic lights.
6am this morning (still very dark, couldn't really see the other lane was closed) I had to swerve and panic stop as the "stop at red light" sign suddenly appeared out of the darkness, swiftly followed by an approaching stream of oncoming traffic. I cursed myself frantically for lack of observation until I noticed there ***was ***no red light.
Then a nodder almost goes into the back of me.
Then I hear a Doppler-effected "whoooaaaa" as a scooter goes flying past, screeching to a halt 3 feet from the front of a car.
Jesus H Christ.

I really hope this didn't cause any accidents today.

Evening bump.

I'm riding brakeless at the moment but don't really feel qualified. I'm a menace.

I really need to learn to skid properly. Not badly.

Skidding kills tyres, not speed. Skipping / brute force resisting FTW.