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Alrighty then. Seeing as I'm in the process of being crippled by the 49cm Steamroller I'm currently riding I'm looking for a more roomy frame, in the regions of 54-58cm. Not expecting a massive response but thought I'd try anyway. This is a F+F trade ideally although if circumstances are suitable I will just trade frame.

About the Roller:

• 49cm
  
• Black
  
• Paint in decent condition, will provide closer pictures soon
  
• One small dent in left hand seatstay which distorts the straightness of the tube ever so slightly(will try and grab a flick of this too as well as a picture of the dent beside a penny or some such)
  
• Frame in structurally perfect condition apart from this
  
• Fork perfect structurally
  
• Cane Creek headset, Shimano BB, both in good condition
  
• Surly stickers showing signs of wear/ rubbing but enamel headtube badge is fine
  
  
  

Any Surly owner and any Steamroller owner in particular will tell you that these are a fantastic workhorse and built like a brick shithouse.

Taking into consideration the slight damage to the frame, I'm open to pretty much any frame within the size parameters specified above, couple of things to bear in mind though I guess:

• Must have track ends
  
• Paint can be flawed and scratched as long as the frame itself is structurally sound
  
• Not interested in Langsters, Paddy Wagons or the like
  
• No Create rubbish
  
  
  

As you can see from the sticker in the first picture the frame is indeed located in Dublin, Ireland. Although I have no references on this site, I can be vouched for on others, including a previous frame swap. Really would prefer to trade as I can't really be without a frame for very long, taking this into consideration it would take £120 to prize this from my cold, dead hands. Comment if any further info needed.

At 5" 10 it's a push but at 18 years young I like to think I can get away with it. Don't have the cash monies for something bigger and it's my only way to make the 7 mile trip to and from college. Student life brah!

My atrocious bicycle. Clearly far too small for me but it's a fun workhorse. 49cm Steamroller.

When I find some part-time employment: H+Sons and bullhorns. Plus a bigger frame haha.

Oh and anyone who would be interested in swapping a 54-58cm F+F and trying something smaller holla at me.

Great idea. Looking forward to seeing some lovely Fevas in here. Props Rourke that is a beautiful frame and a great story!

Mid 80s I was thinking. The Cassette on the rear is a Shimano MF Z012 from 88' though. The front is identical in shape, polished and high flange. Laced to a Mavic Module E on the front and an MA2 on the rear with Maillard MM Atom skewers if it's any use.

Any help is appreciated.

Agreed that it can be a horrible, horrible task. I've stripped a load of frames and parts and it's never easy. Apart from Nitromors, I've used this stuff that most hardwares seem to carry:

That said, it's performance was pretty much identical to that of Nitromors.

I've heard many americans say that whenever it comes to stripping paint from metal, they swear by this stuff:

Makes sense as it's been designed purely to remove paint layers from metal as opposed to removing paint from all kinds of different surfaces with an emphasis on retaining the structural integrity of the underlying materials. I've never seen it on our shores though, I'd love to get my hands on some even just to compare it to Nitromors.

I think I must be missing something here. I don't understand what could be overly daunting about stripping a frame? A pain in the arse perhaps, that would be the main reason I could see someone going to a company to have it done for them. I'm sure a can of Nitromors and a bitta elbow grease would be exponentially cheaper than having it done "professionally".

Looking at it again, he hit the guy(who is clearly considerably older) once in the ribs, once in the head, letting the guy know he clearly means business and at 0.20-0.21 seems to be walking off then comes back to deliver another 3-4 blows. Fuck that shit, the guy recording should have given the video to the police as evidence, the quality is high enough to probably get an ID on the messenger.

I had a new thread opened ready to post this! I did a quick search to make sure no one had posted it before me and couldn't find anything, then I saw this!

This was my reaction when I saw it yesterday:

Holy fucking shit. Just look how hard he’s hitting him, fully outstretched arm swings with 3 or 4 solid connections to the face and head with the heavy end of the Kryptonite. He could have killed the guy easily enough.

Disproportionate reaction or what.

"Word to your mother".

i'm glad we've got you on board, federal.

:)

Aww ;D

speaking from experience fred?

Any recommendations on gloves? Will washing up gloves be ok?

You could use those but try and get something more durable. Any glove with a hardy fabric would be better.

Ok, this will get your non- drive side pedal off for sure.

IF you are going to use this trick, make DAMN sure that you are going to turn the spanner the right way, if you do this the wrong way and tighten it in even more it isn’t going to help much. Remember that left hand pedals have a left hand thread so undo clockwise. Most other threads are right hand and undo anti-clockwise…

If the crank is already off the bike then you can put the spanner on, then prop the spanner-crank-pedal assembly on the ground so it forms a little mound. Provided you have thought it through and propped them the right way up, a good stamp on the top will loosen the pedal off nicely. Note that it is a good idea to think about the floor underneath before doing this. It WILL get ragged.

If your drive side crank has a spider on it, it may be considerably more difficult to remove and I suggest using one of the many methods posted above, most of them have a resonable chance of success.

Yes, yes I do. Is this the drive side or non drive side crank that won't release the pedal? I can help you more with moar infos.

Good point about the weight, never thought about that actually! I talked to the guys at the hardware store near my work, and they said to start with two and see how many layers that'll give me, so I won't sit with 3 unused cans of purple laquer.

I don't know if I'll be able to raw the frame properly, but I'll try, maybe with the chemical stuff that bubbles the paint..I want as good of a finish as possible, 'cause I'm ordering some good decals/stickers and such so I'll be working quite a lot on the bike..
Glossy'n'shiny, yes, so clearcoating is a must..=)

Rawing is easy enough, just slap on loads of Nitromors with a brush and most of the paint should fall off itself. Grab some steel wool and use that to remove any stubborn bits.

This is the size nitromors can you want:

Dov, can you respray my Rubble? How much for hot pink?

I'm not talking about the paint colour.

Well played.

Ah here, where are all you chaps off to with 5-6 cans?! You will need 1 can, 2 if in doubt. I know some of you guys pretend not to be weight bitches, but do you know how much weight is in 6 cans of paint?! If you want the best finish, raw the whole frame. 1 can of nitromors is all you will need. Strictly speaking, you could just rough up the existing paint with some medium-high grade sandpaper and paint onto that, and you could get an acceptable finish(as long as the surface is relatively abrasive, the paint will hold and tend not to flake) but to be sure to be sure, I would remove all the paint. Montana paints will suffice, but bear in mind that their primary purpose is to be sprayed onto walls. Plasti-kote I've found is a nicer quality paint. Do several coats, 4-6 should be fine. Only put a clear coat on if you want a glossy finish, if it's a matte or satin finish you want, do without, although I'm fairly sure they do a satin clear coat as well.

i have gone through 4 inner tubes now on my new H+sons rims and still have no tire on the bloody thing.
after the first blow out i took extra special care in making sure there was no pinches. but again, BANG. it looks like they are going on the spoke holes. so im gonna try some rim tape. how ever i never had to do this on my velocity deep Vs.

Has anyone else had these problems?

im fitting Vittoria zaffino tires and using specialized 700c 20/28 long valve inner tubes.

rim tape and then hope!

Seriously, get some tape, or at least wrap the insides of the rim a few times with the insulated tape of your choice. I also assume you're checking the inside of the tire walls for glass and thorns?

Do yourself a favour and don't bother with the aerosol clearcoat. The stuff is rubbish and absolutely useless at protecting a frame from rust. I've rawed lots of frames countless times and I tell you this will work a lot better. Take a rag and some motor oil. Just wipe some on, let it sit over night and wipe with a dry rag. It won't make it look shiny or anything but I never got rust. Actually it works really well if you leave it out in the sun, it will darken a bit and you will get better protection.

You would have more luck emailing Zeal, they are distributing them.

You can keep yer Haro thanks. I'll take the wheels though, ta.

they come with the bike, the bike only comes out next month and are distrebuted by ZEAL DISTREBUTION, if you contact them because im sure they are selling bits seperatly, focale 44 is being built by superstar, the bmx company so ill expect they are gonna be strong builds.

ahah.

They don't look to bad at all though for completes.

Haha maybe when I can afford to drop 100 billz on a seat. The Charge seat did look really nice and lots of people seem to swear by it so I will definitely be looking into that.

Thanks for the link, yeah I think I will go for the seat, can't really go wrong at that price.