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Not sure if my PMs are getting through. Aren't they normally in the "sent messages" folder after you've sent them or does the system on here work differently?

Still like to buy the "black/brown San Marco Rolls. Almost new condition. £25" if you're willing to post it.

If you'll post it for that price then dibs on "black/brown San Marco Rolls. Almost new condition. £25"

PM on it's way too.

http://current.com/groups/on-current-tv/92489717_creating-a-bike-friendly-city.htm

vs.

Ed - off topic, but is there a longer video of this? (originally posted by you in the Bike Porn thread)

I've slid off worse than that on geared bikes many times. Wet roads are slippery whatever you're riding. Guess that wasn't taken into account though?

Went with the 292mm for both front and back from the EDD calculator.

But, front is looking very tight at the moment. Probably needs at least 294mm if not 296mm. Double walled rims will allow for an extra 2mm if 296mm is too long, so probably going to try some 296mm.

Back hub width is slightly narrower so probably fine with 294mm.

I'll report back again when wheels are finished.

scratch that -- I read the chart wrong. That's where you got 296mm and 294mm from .

i used 296 front and 294 back.

http://cyclebasket.com/sitepage.php?id=5

Nice link. Hadn't seen that before. Thanks.

Did the 296 and 294 come up slightly long but ok for the depth of the rim? Mind if I ask why you went with those lengths? All calcs seem to say 293m and that list says 292mm ?

Hi,

Just a quick double check before I order spokes as it seems a common combination.

Building Zenith hubs to Mavic Open Sport rims and have got a result from the EDD spoke calculator of 293mm for the spokes. I'm rounding this down to 292mm.

Anyone actually built this combination and can confirm the spoke length that worked for them, or confirm that the 293mm calculation is all good? I'm assuming it is and trusting the EDD calculator that's worked for me before for other rims, but thought I'd double check here too.

Cheers, Adam

found one...

http://www.tokyofixedgear.com/productdetails.asp?productid=00303

ouch

Is your front wheel sitting centrally in the frame / not accidentally dished slightly to one side?

why not just get an ISO headset and get the headtube reamed and crown race seat cut...?

If that ebay JIS headset is really JIS then it's cheaper than the Tange Levin that I bought in this country.

I considered the reaming / milling thinking it might be worth it if I was going to get through numerous headsets (cheaper in the long run), but the frame it's going on doesn't get loads of use, so it might be the only time I ever replace the headset for quite a few years. Not worth paying twice for alterations and more expensive headset if that ebay JIS one is ok.

If it's not true JIS then with the apparent lack of JIS headsets around, yes I will be getting the work done and go ISO.

Thanks.

I sent them a message earlier to get them to confirm that the cups are 30mm and they're not just selling an ISO (30.2mm cup) headset with 27mm crown race like most people are and calling it JIS. No reply yet though.

JIS headsets are looking really difficult to find. Lots of searches turn up plenty of results but few places actually have any in stock any more.

Finally got it..but only after realising the need to tighten the locknut into the cone, so that it wont move. Took a while to get my head round it, as I keep thinking by tightening the lockkuts it would just tighten the cones more, then I realised you hold then to prvent this and now it is perfect! Yipee.

Thanks

you got it.

Most examples in the transmission database ( http://www.lfgss.com/thread3372-6.html ) show most people using BB between 107mm and 110mm for different Stronglight cranks with track hubs, but yours could be completely different. I'm not familiar with Stronglight 80 cranks.

You don't have an old BB around that you could fir and then work out how far off it is from straight chain line do you?

Are you using it with just one chain ring yes? If so are you putting it on the inside or outside of the spider... that will affect what length BB you need. Sometimes cranks intended to be used as doubles hit the chain stays if you use a short BB and try to put the chain ring on the outside of the spider to get correct chain line, so you have to put the chain ring on the inside of the spider and compensate with a slightly longer BB.

First things first, do you know what chain line your hub gives you? Probably around 42mm?

If you're able to work BB length out roughly then I would always err on the side of going a couple of mm short rather than long. Easeir to space it out with 1 or 2mm of spacers to get good chain line than it is if it's too long and you have to space out the sprocket on the wheel (which is tricky and sometimes not possible with limited thread width on your hub).

Anyone know...

• Anywhere that sells the Dura Ace JIS headset in the UK?
  
• What the stack height of the Dura Ace headset is? (Need something the same or less than the Tange Levin 33.4mm)
  

Your cones were too loose (as seen in the video) and now they are too tight (if you're saying the wheel won't spin?)

You need to get it somewhere in between... tight enough to not wobble, but loose enough not to grind. When you tighten the lockrings against the cones they might affect the tightness / looseness too though. It might take a few goes to get it right and you'll likely need cone spanners.

Thanks. Thinking more about it I agree I think I'd feel happier getting the right size instead of getting someone to ream the head tube... retain the integrity of the frame and keep it proper thickness, even though it's only a couple of mm.

Having said that I removed the cups this afternoon to double check measurements and managed to press the lower cup back in by hand, so it's a very loose JIS 30mm fit. It's snug enough once it's in there (esp if I add a dab of loctite when fitting finally) but doesn't require a press to get it in. Can't help feeling a 30.2mm cup would go in.

Double check it's not your spider. I had two chain rings in a row that were "off centre". Both in the same place, which was suspicious. So I filed the spider back a bit towards the centre of the crankset where the chain ring sits and now I'm able to centre the chain ring again properly. It was a slight defect on the spider.

Direction of tread isn't too important unless you're using really chunky MTB tyres. If you're being perfectionist about it then yes arrows of tread pointing forwards. Some will tell you its to channel water through in wet conditions.

Sometimes putting tubes on a warm radiator before fitting and leaving the rim outside on the cold can help fit tight tyres. Really depends on the rim though and it's age too.

Making sure the tyre is really well seated into the rim on the part you've got on does make a big difference.

Even getting yourself a couple of extra mm of play using the above when getting a tight tyre on can be the difference between getting it on and not.

I find swearing loudly can also sometimes scare the tyre into behaving :)

Thanks guys. I think your Koga frame is a bit nicer than the 50 year old Dawes (salvaged from scrap) I'm trying to sort out and probably more worthwhile spending the money on the Dura Ace for your bike. Aren't the Koga frames Alloy? I was hoping someone would chip in and say I'd be fine with the extra 0.2mm on an old worn steel frame.

Might be cheaper to get the head tube reamed in the long run. Then use 27mm crown race with ISO headset.. which I'm still assuming will sit ok?

Read lots of mixed opinions in the last few days. Some people saying they've fitted ISO into JIS and been fine (mostly steel frames) and other stories of cracked head tubes (on alloy frames).

• oh I see.. proof I'm getting old.. never heard of JLS. I was trying to work out what clothing company advert its was :)
  

Bit cryptic? Not sure. Any hints?

Edit: Their heads are too small for their bodies?

Having difficulty sourcing a JIS 1″ threaded headset. Possible to get on import but many are just regular ISO headsets with 30.2mm cups (instead of 30mm) with the crown race swapped for the JIS 27mm size (to replace the ISO 26mm). eg here

Couple of Q's if anyone can offer any advice? I have a couple of old 27mm crown races already so could I just get the regular ISO headset (available easily in this country and at a reasonable price) and swap the 26.4mm crown race that comes with it for one of my own 27mm ones? Will the slightly wider JIS crown race sit ok with the bearings of the ISO headset? I assume the extra 0.6mm is in the hole and doesn't affect the outside diameter of the race?

If the above works has anyone had any experience of fitting a 30.2mm ISO headset cup into a head tube that is meant to have a 30mm JIS cup? Any warnings? Will I trash / crack the frame? I'm thinking of freezing the cups before fitting them to make this easier.

Its on a very old steel Dawes frame that is slightly worn anyway on the head tube anyway so might have wider tolerance already. I expected it to be standard ISO fitting but looks like it's JIS (which I've found out is likley because of it's age). Luckily the ISO Tange Levin I got for it fitted another bike.

I'm aware I could get the head tube / fork milled but would rather avoid if if possible and go the easy route of getting a regular ISO headset with my own crown race if possible.

Anone got any advice or had experience of this?

If anyone has a good condition Sugino Zen Messenger going cheap-ish that would be ideal.

Or Blackspire, Gebhardt, All City would be great.

Will need posting though as I'm not in London.

Prefer not to use an inner road ring as that's what has just failed on me.

Thanks.

Chainring might not be centered on the spider?

http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html#tension