Search results for:

UK Road Law

yep, thanks.

Top result is highway code, which isn't necesarilly law and the least vague bit for cyclists says...

"
Road junctions

            **72**

On the left. When approaching a junction on the left, watch out for vehicles turning in front of you, out of or into the side road. Just before you turn, check for undertaking cyclists or motorcyclists. Do not ride on the inside of vehicles signalling or slowing down to turn left.
"

So does that mean undertaking is ok because they mention it? As long as a vehicle is not signalling left it's ok to ride on the inside? And to pass them on the inside? Vehicles only turn left if they are signalling?

There is so much mis-information around about undertaking on a bike or filtering to the left. Even the highway code can be fairly ambiguous.

Undertaking is permitted in cars when the lane of trafic to your right is static or slower moving than the lane you're in, but what about when there is no lane distinction?

Does anyone have any links or info that is fact about the legality of undertaking when cycling?

Google and searches seems to just turn up opinions rather than real facts.

Is there any "rule of thumb" or guide for the minimum safe distance to insert a stem that has no minimum insert marking? Maybe a precentage of the overall length of the stem or at least x inches?

Thought this might interest people outside Bristol too.

listen again for seven days --- http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00mx6bc

or MP3 at ---

http://www.bristolcyclingcampaign.org.uk/resources/Radio%204%20-%20Bristol%20Cycling%20City.mp3

You can spend all your money on a car and then more running and maintaining it and that will make you poor, but you'll have a car.

You can not spend that money on a car and buy a bike for less money and less cost to run and still have money, so not be poor.

Then car=poor and bike=rich.

Bikes can be for everyone, I think is the point you were alluding to?

I've serviced two wheels this week that were nearly ok but had the occaisional grind to them that both turned out to have split bearings. Always worth checking bearings, regreasing and tightening cone nuts / general service every now and then.

yeah dishing issues i guess

Dishing should not be an issue on front wheels, should it?

as dicki said, hollow axle QR vs solid axle / track nuts can be part of it. + rims will be brake / less --- clincher / tubular specific

Cone nuts / lock nuts loose. Maybe. Depends what hub it is.

Bearings might need servicing / regreasing.

All easy when you know how.

Difficult to give advice without knowing what hubs / bearings (sealed?) you have.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=105

http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ba-n.html#bearing

793

was someone asking for this NSFW photo?
http://www.perou.co.uk/diary/?date=2006-01-03

WARNING === PHOTO IS NSFW

He might claim to have been trying to be humourous in his article (a la Clarkson, albeit a substandard attempt) but he doesn't really come across as joking. How will readers know? Articles like this all go to reinforcing anti cycling driving behaviour and encourages the sort of incidents that the following blog post talks about...
http://greenbristolblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/another-day-another-victim.html

From the comments:

*"The pictured cyclist is a friend of mine, he was hit off his bike on prince street as mentioned above, where it would appear the driver was not used to sharing the road with cyclists, (as he was not from Bristol).

My friend tells me the Driver seemed to become agitated because he was cycling in front of him. They had a verbal exchange, where my friend in the heat of the moment spat in front of the drivers car, (an act he deeply regrets). After which the driver slowed in pace almost to a stop then my friend (the cyclist)who was in front of the car, said possibly the driver was trying to nudge him slighty, but instead excelerated over the back half of his bike, He rode over his right leg and draged him a few metres. As you can see from the photo's on this site.

Lucky the bike stuck under the cars bumper preventing him from possibly being killed. The driver then revearsed back over my friends leg again, this time freeing him but not the bike. which remained stuck under the car, until he retrieved it afterwards.

As you can imagine he was quite shook up by the incident but is very happy to be alive. He has a swallon leg, with friction burns from being dragged on his shoulder, left arm, and also has slight swelling and abrasion to his leg and knee, from where it was stuck between the bike and the bumper of the car.

He has been unable to return to work this week as he is obviouly aching, slightly shocked and sore.

His father is intending to deal with the incident, via the drivers insurance company. Though he himself is unsure what to think or do about the whole palava?

As a friend I would like to thank all of you for documenting what happened on his behalf, and he would also like to thank the kind and decent members of the public and emergency services that came to his aid."*

I hope he puts his cling film back in the drawer that is slightly too full so when he comes to open it again, the cling film has wedged itself against the top inside of the drawer cabinet and he has to mess about with a chopstick to pull it back down to free up the drawer.

I hope he packs his shopping in the wrong order at the supermarket and gets home to find he's squashed the nose of his brie.

I hope his toilet seat falls down mid piss and causes him to splash on his carpet and then not be able to start pissing against once he's stopped because of the shock.

I hope he goes on holiday and takes all his snaps on an old instamatic camera and looks through the viewfinder the wrong way and doesn't realise until he gets his prints back from Snappy Snaps only to find they're all close-ups of his left ear.

Andale or Andel?

they are £19.50, so they aren't going to be good.
...

get a pair of zenith/systemex.

but you can get Zenith hubs for £19.50 too.

• they're still good / the same as Formula hubs, used by many satisfied customers etc.
  
  

EDIT: Correction, Zenith hubs can be found for £19.50 each, not for a pair like the ones in the link.

yeah but those that live on trafficky roads have had their lives made wretched by road noise for years. and these residents tend to be the poorest in society (they cant afford to move).

so there is a strong case for (and i support it) quieter roads and a safer community.

if anybody has had to live on a 'main' road they will probably empathise.

imo we want quieter and safer roads = less speed please = less miles travelled = less cars = less energy consumed = less need for nukes etc.

And road surfaces are now being made to be porous to absorb sound down into the road to reduce noise pollution. Downwside is the surfaces last 6 years instead of almost twice as long, so need resurfacing more often. Yes, that resurfacing is paid for by tax payers money... blah blah, so if you drive a car that makes noise you're costing tax payers more blah blah blah. Inversely, quiet bicycles could be saving every tax payer money.

A bit off topic and serious, but true.

A EF: Perhaps an uninformed / naive question, but are you sure that the distance from centre to shoulder is the same on the freewheel side of the hub as it is on the fixed side? By centre, I mean exactly half way between the locknuts, not half way between the flanges.

Example:

• If centre to shoulder on fixed side is 35.6, your chainline will be 35.6 + 6.4 = 42mm
  
• If centre to shoulder on freewheel side is 34.11, your chainline will be 34.11 + 7.89 = 42mm
  
  

Now, I am sure it won't work out this perfectly, but if centre to shoulder measurement is different on both sides, it will impact how much spacing you need behind the Surly / Andel.

Perhaps I am being a bit dim (quite possible) and missing the point. If so, please ignore.

Not naive at all.

This had crossed my mind and I am hoping that it is the case. If the manufacturers take into account that freewheel sprockets are always slightly wider you'd hope they'd allow a little more space on the freewheel side to keep everything equal and balanced.

I'll find out when I put it together I guess and will report back. (not got hub in front of me and waiting on sprocket delivery).

I would be alright.
I run 25 tyres on DP18, originally intended for 18-23 tyres.
No problem at all!

Rigida site specifies 18-25 for DP18s

They're 13mm interior width

Table at Sheldon Brown also says 18-25 for 13mm interior rims.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tyre-sizing.html#width

Also states "Many cyclists exceed the recommended widths with no problem"

I
I find it tricky to measure chainline (just how do you decide on the centre of the hub to say 0.5mm accuracy?).

You don't find the centre, you take the whole width and halve it then use it with other measured dimensions to work out where your chainline should be / is. Then you can measure from the rear dropout or locknuts to the sprocket.

Vernier Caliper, ruler, knowing the dimensions of the hub you have from manufacturers info and working it out with the rear droput spacing all help.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html

Are you doubting Sheldon?

I wouldn't dare. Only being carefull as some of those measurements are emailed in from other people.

Option 5:
Stop worrying, and

mmmm

option 2.
1.5mm of cog spacers should'nt be a problem (you can use BB spacers), just make sure the lockring still threads on nicely.
http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shoptrack.html

(ED: I've got 2x1mm spacers on my fixed, and the lockring still does enough turns)

Good to know.

I've got a few BB spacers from the random boxes in the workshop just in case.

Thanks all for replies.

Also. 0.75mm out on chainline is chuff all.

Thanks that's what I'm hoping, that it's only 0.75mm and Sheldon's table is correct.