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They just wanted to retain the power to be able to evict him and be able to dangle it over him - they even admitted he was very good at paying rent on time.

Imagine evicting a 90 year old in the winter - shame on them. That poor tenant, I imagine that could be quite deleterious to ones health.

Thanks for the reply - I think we'll bite the bullet, but only refloor the part of the kitchen where the units are. The rest of the room is open plan / living room, so would have been different flooring anyway.

Rather than do the whole lot (42sq metres) well just do the kitchen bit (c.15 sq metres). That seems to be the optimum way to approach without too much regret work later on.

Thanks, the units are currently on the subfloor. Guess that means that there's be no excavation of the floor under the units needed when we came to change, sounds promising.

We're about to do our kitchen. We were originally going to replace the floor at the same time, but for the sake of costs might just live with the tiles that are currently in there. The kitchen is already on a concrete / level floor so should not need work under the tiles.

Does anyone know if it would possible to replace the tiles at a later date (in a few years perhaps) if the units are already there? Appreciate that it's likely harder and more expensive than doing it now, but for the sake of costs this year is it still a viable job to do?

Surely PS5

Just this week put some on my car - seems pretty good from what I can tell.

I put N rated Michellins (PS2?) on my 996. They were way more expensive than equivalents, wouldn't bother (with N rated) next time.

Ah no way - I didn't know they did that. I wonder why, there's only half a dozen of them on their website.

You can presumably buy a real 1955 for cheaper than that. I'm not sure why you wouldn't...

I thought they weren't legal in the UK for pedestrian safety? Or is there some import / exception that allows them.

Having sandwiches for breakfast is also a bit weird.

It must be nice to be able to have a job where you can send someone out to bring you a steak lunch though.

Yes! It was. Got the pressure up enough to bleed the rad at the top of the house, which is now warming up.

Amazing, thanks all.

Ok - thanks, I appreciate this (and the other) replies, and apologies for taking over this thread slightly, this will be my last question!

Is there any chance the attached photo is the flexible filling hose? The pipe on the left (red) is warm to the touch, the one on the right (blue) is cold. It's behind the mega flo, about 4-5 metres away from the boiler. The red pipe splits into the floor, and into one of the connections on the front of the mega flo, the blue pipe comes from the wall and splits into the jumble of pipes on the right of the mega flo.

We probably will stick with this setup, it's just initially disapointing that it's going to take up the only space in a new kitchen where we can have tall cabinets.

We probably won't get rid of it, as it'll prove too expensive, but that tank is currently taking up a double size cupboard in the kitchen...

Similar situation to that flat you saw, we're redoing the kitchen and would prefer to use that cupboard space for something else. That said, moving it is going to cost thousands I imagine, and the value of that cupboard will never be worth that.

The place has two bathrooms, no floor heating and three inhabitants - I reckon a combi should be able to manage it, it seems (to my unprofessional eye) overspeced!

The manual says the inlet valve should be just to the left of that - through that hole in the metal that's currently empty :)

Thanks all - really appreciate the help. We're currently getting quotes to replace it with a combi boiler instead.

What's really annoying is that I *think the boiler is a combi boiler - it's got outputs with pictures of radiators and taps, but only one is connected, so it could have been plumbed up more sensibly (or to my mid more sensibly).

I think I might get in touch with the previous owner or arrange a plumber visit.

Unless anyone reckons this is a candidate?! The pipe is cold...

There should be a top up valve somewhere

Thanks. The only pipe going into he boiler that was cold to touch while the heating is on (and not labelled 'gas') was the one on the far right - so it'd be a valve on that one presumably? There's no valve on it, so it must be somewhere else in the house - would it being near the monolith make sense?

No, it's just part of the plastics for the boiler cover.
I've also got this plumbing monolith in a cupboard in the kitchen. I had been thinking that the boiler did the central heating, and this mega flo did the hot water, but maybe the mega flo does both? If I (somehow) pressurised the mega flo, would the pressure the boiler is reading increase as well?

My daughter's room in our new house is in the loft, and the radiator doesn't feel particularly hot up there, so I thought I'd bleed it.

Turning the key, I heard the air escape, but after a few seconds, nothing. No air and no water. I know the radiator has got water as the bottom half and the feeder pipes are hot.

So then I thought the heating water pressure might not be high enough to push the air out up there. The boiler says it's at 0.9bar, which is a little low. However! My question...

I'm used to boilers having a little water valve under them, which this one doesn't have... YouTube examples all do in the area I've circled.

Anyone got any suggestions how to increase the pressure in my boiler?

From what you posted here, that seemed like the right move - always good to have a decision made.

Right - maybe he/she will, maybe not.

I've found they're pretty protective of their commision once they have a buyer lined up, it doesn't make much difference to them if the price comes down 20K or whatever - it might be a lot less effort for them to talk their client into it than trying to remarket the house to a new buyer.

For a standard victorian house it's likely to be between 8-10k if you can find a one man band who will do it for cash.

Seems optimistic tbh - replacing just the flat portion of our roof was about £7k a couple of years ago and just getting a roofer out to patch things up over the next few years will be £1-2k each time.

If the roof is truly screwed, it's time for the estate agent to earn his fee, do a bit of work for the sale and talk his client's price down.

First time buying is the worst. There's no one on your side

Yes, but once it's vaguely established you have control of the entire chain since it's your money that everyone needs to pass up. We had a five house chain completely bossed around by the idiot buying a two bedroom flat at the bottom of it, I think he was able to gouge quite a bit out of his seller for repairs as a result.

My two cents on the roof, a few slipped tiles are fine to swallow the price of, but a whole roof will be ten of thousands and massive hassle / risk of price escalation. The surveyor for the next buyer that looks up there is going to find the same issue and the estate agent knows exactly what's needed in the situation (negotiation on the price).

I'd hasten the prospect of him loosing his fee by looking elsewhere, or (slightly less ethically) revisit the question once a chain is established and others have paid money for their surveys etc.

local councillors

Definitely worth a go - I emailed my councilors about something associated with a house move recently. Problem was solved within hours (we'd been waiting two months till then).

They just forward the email and ask the right person to get involved straight away.

Thanks for all this - that video looks comprehensive. At least comprehensive enough to suggest that I want to get an electrician in to do it for me.

I'll run an extension cable for a few months while I work on the shed, then once all my benches and storage are in their final place I'll get a chap in.

Cheers all

This cable chat has reminded me... I'm going to run an extension cable from my outdoor socket to my shed. It's about three four metres or so.

I've never worked with armoured cable. Does it have to be armoured to run that extension? Or will any 'outdoor' suitable cable work?

If it does have to be armoured I can't see many armoured extension leads available. There's nothing special about that cable is there? I imagine it's difficult to cut, but otherwise I should be able to get a length and put a pair of plugs on the end to make my own extension lead?

Wasn't there someone on here doing it in assembler last year? Mental.

Looking back it was @rhowe - great effort