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Roger that.

I know i should go and sort my chainline out but that will involve buying a new crankset and i don't have the £100+ atm. I'll see just how out it is when my rear sprocket turns up (hopefully by the weekend) - it may not be too bad when i offer all the parts up, but i'm not that optimistic lol!

As above, i know this can be done but will it cause any real problems? My reason is that the chainline is going to be slightly out on my new build and was thinking that using a 1/8 chain will give me slightly more play laterally?

I currently run a 1/8 chain on my beater with a 1/8 sprocket and 3/32 chainring with no problems but the chainline is pretty much bang on (shimano freehub with spacer kit).

Cheers.

...where do you guys mount your brake lever on dropbars? I'm torn between having it on the horizontal part at the top or on the vertical drop bit at the front?

Did mine with a screwdriver and hammer last week. Covered the end of the screwie with electrical tape to offer a bit of protection, as suggested by someone on my headset thread post. Worked a treat.

I run my SS conversion on a shimano rear freehub with a DMR SS conversion kit (effectively a set of spacers with a 16T freewheel). The frame has a 138mm (?) spacing for the rear hub so my 700c wheel fitted straight on. As long as your chainline is straight i can't see it making a difference, i've been riding mine for over 3 months now with no problems at all.

Haha, yeah i never realised there was all this to it ffs! I did ask at BLB about a headset install and it was £25 labour charge which i thought was a bit steep tbh as its hardly a difficult job with the correct tools...

Right well i had a go at it lastnight and managed to get it about 1-2mm off the crown before my housemate moaned at me for banging on his ceiling lmao. Should be able to get it the final way down tonight, been using a screwie covered with leccy tape and its not damaged it at all. In fact i'm kinda lucky as the crown race had a small shoulder below the bearing surface which a small plastic ring fits on so i've been hitting that instead of the "important" bit. The plastic ring looks more like an aesthetic thing than a seal. I'll probably run one of those lizard skin covers thru winter anyway ;-)

OK cheers guys, i will most likely try the hammer and screw driver trick, failing that i'll bang it over the hob for a few mins. I'm not too fussed about re-using the headset in the future as if it goes i'll just put a new one in and cut the old crown race off. The reason for re-using this one was that it's in good condition and funds won't allow for a new one atm.

It's deffo a 1-1/8 headset, i measured the steerer tube with a vernier and its a cats-cock-hair larger towards the bottom and other than that the crown race is an almost perfect fit along the rest of the steerer tube.

Ah right, all new to me as i have only had BMX's before which had threaded headsets with gyros etc etc. How much do you reckon an LBS will do it for if i fail to find a piece of pipe?

Cheers Velo - The picture you show is exactly what mine currently looks like. Apologies, i meant to just type crown but obviously got carried away and put race where i shouldn't have...

So it is looking like a press fit then?

Yeah i'll get some pics tonight.

DickBarton - Yes the forks are 1-1/8. The frame is a Fuji Track and i looked up the standard bike specs and it says 1-1/8 for the headset/steerer tube. The frame was bought second hand but came with the original Ritchey headset which is what i'm trying to use...

Hi all,

I have bought new forks for my current build and did a trial fitment with them lastnight and the bottom bearing race/seal sits about 5-6mm above the crown race. The alloy steerer tube seems to have a slight taper in the last 10mm or so and this is as far as i can get the steerer to go.

Should i get a bit of pipe and hit the bottom race/seal down so it sits on the crownrace, or alternatively file the last 10mm of steerer tube so that the race/seal will go down further?

OR can i just bang a 5mm spacer in there?

Cheers.

Get down to Decathlon - £20 for a front and £25 for rear with Shimano Freehub, then add a SS kit (cog with spacers). Thats what i've done on my old Raleigh.

Cheers guys, most helpful!

lol, ok may have been a silly question, but i was wondering if anyone had recommendations for random LBS's? The internet always throws up the same stuff usually at silly prices?

Looking for a cheap brand new rear wheel preferably fixed but SS would do, needs to have 120mm rear axle, any ideas guys?

Sturmey Archer 3-speed, dated 1976. In good working order. Still attached to 26" wheel, but can be cut off easy enough.

Offers?

Army of Two - £10
Gears of War 1 - £5
Devil May Cry 4 - £10
Project Gothem Racing 4 - £5
Race Driver GRID - £10

Free to collect from St Pauls area through the week, £1.50 posted otherwise.

Could do with a bit of advice here,

I have just aquired a Fuji track frame and need to replace the BB, plus i also need a new crankset as my old Raleigh is on those cottered pieces of shite. Now i need to do this on a small budget and am looking at the following crankset:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35856

and a sealed cartridge Shimano BB:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17473

Now i already have a SS conversion kit on a shimano freehub on the rear wheel - am i correct in assuming that as long as i get a BB spindle wide enough to allow fitment of the crankset then i can get my chainline by juggling the spacers around?

Whatever you do make sure you get a clear coat of laquer on there afterwards or else it won't stay polished looking for long!

Where did you get that for that price? Ebay baragin was it?

Ah ok, well looks like i get second dibs then if titof don't want it...

Hi,

What size/thread is the BB on this frame?

That frame looks suspiciously like my 1976 Raleigh "Connoisseur" which i stripped down (binned the fenders etc) sprayed and now run as my SS. Mine originally had 26" wheels on but your look bigger than that? In any case i fitted 700c's a couple of weeks ago and had to buy a shimano rear brake with a shorter drop, although i can't remember off hand which model number it was as the key is in that i do believe. I took it into the workshop at "on your bike" at london bridge and asked the mechanic to find me a brake that had the right drop and then sell me it as i wasn't going to pay him to do it the jockey!

So in short i have not answered your question, but beware as these old Raleigh frames are a damn mystery half of the time...

How much for street fighter 4 on its own please?