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As Hippy said, it's pretty straight forward to use DIY's for RRtY. As long as you're not doing loops or using the same stretch of road over and over again, pretty much anything goes for a DIY. My winter route for RRtY is one big out and back (which happens to pass a Greggs 12 times).
Best thing to do is try and batter out your 200 for the month as soon as possible each month. Nothing is more stressful than trying to complete a 200 on the very last day of the month when you're 10 months in. Trust me, I've been there.
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I would have to disagree and say that PDW are twice the price better. I have used a lot of guards and found that the PDW’s are the most round. Kinda like how less expensive chainrings are often manufactured to less of a tolerance. Means you can fit them under very little to no tension.
The mounting hardware is also very good.
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Congrats, sounds like a great ride!
It’s interesting that you say you’d possibly enjoy audax if more of you were a bit faster. I find this is especially true when you start doing rides long enough to include a sleep stop.
A friend of mine once told me a story about his folks riding longer distance audaxes together way back when. When his dad used to ride alone he would always be fast enough to get a decent few hours sleep on a 600. But when his dad and mum rode them together they were never fast enough to get much sleep and had to resort to disco naps on benches.
Being a bit faster definitely helps if you like your sleep. -
Personally I love the aesthetic of track ends. (In all honestly it was seeing people riding brakeless track bikes around London many years ago that got me into cycling.)
Forward facing drop outs make sense but I’m not a fan of the huge gap I would have to leave between my wheel and the guard at the BB bridge. If I need to remove my rear wheel, I simply unscrew the mudguard stays which takes about 10 seconds.
I have only ever seen someone flip their rear wheel twice, and each time that was during an audax going up the Cairngorms snow roads. I used to have two cogs fitted to my hub but I used the bigger so infrequently (maybe twice in three years) that I removed it.
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I’ve never found it much of a hassle aligning a rear brake on a fixed, although I’ve only ever had this set up once on a Pompino.
As others have said, tension the chain, align the brake, and you’re good to go. As long as you keep the chain reasonably well tensioned you shouldn’t have any issues.
Ultimately the best solution to keep a rear brake aligned on a fixed wheel bike is to use a rear disc brake and sliding dropouts.
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Wow, this is wild.
I only discovered Wandrer this year and have only been out riding specifically to cover new roads the past month or so.
One thing that I’ve found that’s a bit frustrating is that sometimes I’ll ride a path or a road and a little bit of it will remain red on the Big Map meaning I have to go back to the area again. Does anyone have any hints or tips to avoid this?
I’m 42% of Edinburgh. I’d like to beat the person at the top of the leaderboard who’s at 55%.
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I've used mine the last few winters also doing RRtY and it's been great. The fit feels a little tighter compared to other jerseys in the same size, but not uncomfortably so. Keeps you warm even when damp and blowing a hoolie.
It's not warm enough to ride 200's throughout Scottish winters, however. (For really cold rides I usually wear a Gore winter baselayer, a core winter jacket and a classic softshell jacket.)
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@M_V This is very interesting and I think you raise some good points that, to be honest, I’ve never considered before.
Luckily Matt has offered to paint them for us which now seems like a much better option than powder coating. We don’t want anything fancy, just a single colour for each frame and fork. We will also send the frames off to get ED coated for extra protection.
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I would throughly recommend it!
Matt is happy to help with the geometries based on current bikes, body dimensions, type of riding etc. Likewise he is also happy if you supply a Bike CAD and you work from that. We did a bit of to and fro via email for Gabi’s bike but I was pretty much set on what I wanted.
We started at 8am and finished at 6pm or 7pm each day. As there was two of us on this course and only one could braze at a time I imagine one person would be a bit quicker. There is also a ten day course where you hand file a lot more stuff!
We will both be using carbon forks but Matt is happy to make a fork during the course. I believe @Cupcakes made a fork while on this course.
Paint/powder is dealt with separately but Matt has contacts that can sort both if needed.
His framebuilding course is Scottish Framebuilders Workshop on Insta.
Wasn’t there that one guy that was found out driving the Rapha Feative 500?
#fortheroundel