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Cheaper alternative Rapha's leather glove?
http://hestragloves.com/en-us/gloves/mtb-bike/bike-leather/
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As loose as they can be- XXL, the end of my thumb is against the fabric, but the other fingers are ok.
Oddly its the ring and little finger on both hands that start to chill, the other fingers are ok.
Dammit, I know the feeling. I've been through a different pair of winter gloves each year all with the same outcome. Freezing hands. The only gloves I have found that are guaranteed warmth are my fairly battered Dakine ski mitts with primaloft. The dexterity is reduced when on a road bike but not too bad on MTB.
Personally I would recommend the Hestra 3-finger as they offer the warmth of a mitt but the shift-ability of a glove. They come with a wollen replaceable liner so for warmer rides where the temp might vary you could wear a light weight glove such as the Endura Strike and carry just the Hersta outers in a jersey pocket incase the temp drops and then pull them over the lightweight gloves to keep of the wind and wet. The leather palms grip very well (I've skied in a pair before) and are a pleasure to use. At this time of year it's not uncomon for the temp to drop 5/7 degrees in the evening, this has caught me out on many occasions. From personal experience having a range of gloves for different rides as even 2/3 degree difference in temp can make a huge difference to you hand temp and ultimately your enjoyment. What Furry said earlier about keeping core warm is very true, I find if I ride in my Finisterre 60 fill primaloft gillet my hands stay much warmer.
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Disks lol!
Care to elaborate on this? Power, easy wheel removal, clearance, etc... I fail to see why suggesting disks for this project is comical other than the perhaps non standard aesthetics
Fork need to be strengthened to compensate, as well as the rear triangle, it also mean that the fork may not absorb the road vibration well due to the way the disc mount is brazed on as well ...... I've thought about it and decided against it especially as I plan to aim for an average 9.5kg fully equipped.
Thanks for that explanation Ed, seems like you've really done your research. Best of luck with the project, are you getting a custom rack made?
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Went for a run this morning in a Finisterre vest + long sleeve. Proper good stuff, almost got too warm. There's a noticeable difference from my other merino kit. It's all high quality, but the finisterre stuff seemed warmer. Or maybe it's better cause it's new?
Fantastic customer service too, been a bit to-ing and fro-ing as they ran out of some stuff, but they've handled it very well.
Roll on xmas holiday and runs in the snow!
Likewise can vouch for finisterre kit, a little disappointing to see their base layers are no longer 100% merino though so I emailed them about it and got this reply:
Hi, I am the designer here and I'll do my best to answer your
queries as to why we have moved from 100% merino to 80%/20% polyamide.We have been making merino for around 5 years in our range, always with 100%, but with varying weights and microns of yarn. This year, after a lot of feedback from customers we developed a new mix with our knitters in Portugal, which aims to reduce issues with wear and tear and washing. We always work with feedback from customers and closely with our knitters to try to improve on what has gone before. The added polyamide helps the fabric return to shape after continued wear and also the added strands of polyamide helps with wear and tear against abrasion and breakage, which wool jersey is more prone to snag and unravel in 100% wool. The reason why there are some products still on the site using 100% merino is these are older products and we have a limited stock left. However saying this we are really interested to hear what you think of the new fabric and in the future may run both 100% and 80/20 alongside one another in the range if that is what people want. So please do let us know your thoughts on the wear, feel and look of your new baselayers it really does get fed back into the design and improvement of the product.
Mmm.
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So my suspension forks no longer suspension. They are the heavy suntours on the Trek Marlin.
I think any fork is an upgrade but are these worth getting or just shit http://www.merlincycles.com/bike-shop/frame-forks/forks-shocks/rockshox-suspension-forks/rockshox-xc32-tk-29er-forks-2013.html
I don't really want to spend Reba amount of money but not sure what to do.
For that cash your best bet it trying to pick something up second hand. For the money this is hard to beat even including the shipping , X Fusion are fantastic value for money.
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Just spotted this, seems hard to believe but brand new Van Nicholas Redwood SS/Geared 29er frame for £399! Good job they don't have any 16' ones in stock!
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FRVARWD/van_nicholas_redwood_titanium_29er_frame -
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Anyone else suffering with this, had problems for the best part of 1.5 years on an off but haven't been riding anywhere like the same distances I was before. After a year of riding little and trying lots if solutions: bike fit, physio, exercises, ice, stretching thing still aren't back to normal I have decided to try and sort this out. After a visit to a very good Muscoskleteal podiatrist- Justin Coulter, the diagnosis is my extremely collapsed arches are to blame, custom innersoles, massage rollers on my ITB and yoga for core seem to be the way to go. If anyone is in need of some direction drop me a line.
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Who here said eggbeaters is great for CX? I and John discovered the hard way after he tried but failed to clip in his mud sodded shoes and pedals whether I managed with surprisingly ease with the old Shimano spuds.
From personal experience clogging is in 99% of cases a problem with the shoe not the pedal
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Any runners interested in a pair of hardly used Salomon Speedcross 3 Trail shoes in Black (UK9 EU43 1/3)? £60 posted to your door, just slightly too small for me.