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I stand by my comment.

I tend to agree. This build has been bonkers. But in a really good way.

However, definitely far too fast. Should have taken at least twice as long. :-)

Ed, if you travel at 88mph on that bike, will you go backwards in time..?

Real men ride BIG metal.

"I told you not to get the 1.21 gigawatt model, Ed!"

http://www.colourbox.com/preview/2454824-225857-the-bicyclist-on-a-bicycle-in-a-jump-on-a-background-of-the-sky-and-flash-lightning.jpg

This sort of thing...

http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/cable-tubes-fixing-and-fittings-215-c.asp

But these are sharp, bare metal clips, they'll potentially gouge your paintwork, so put a couple of wraps of electrician's tape under them, or something similar.

The whole frame is metal, so you can't make a circuit around the bike without putting a plastic spacer down the centre of the frame (structurally, this would probably not be a good thing I feel). And you can't go source to ground with rubber tyres. I'm intrigued now.

Oh, nice (theoretical) build so far Ed, btw. I 'm liking the use of 650B - it's a nice wheel size for this kind of thing. I'm still trying to convince my wife to use them on her build.

Those forks are a treat! I would never have thought they would look that good when finished, I was just expecting a bracket to be brazed on, not those tapped cylinders and fillet brazed fins. It certainly looks a lot stronger now, I'll be interesting to see how that neat bit of steampunk engineering holds up in use. No pulling stoppies though.

I'm jealous that you manage to find a bike like that for a quid. I mean, ONE POUND!! Where do people find these bargains?!??

I think it looks good now. Needs a second brake though. ;-)

Does this bike qualify for the HHSB thread?

hmmm chain stretched. Used to be sweet as

That was quick. It's not like you used a half-link chain or anything. Are you riding it really hard, like offroading etc.

Ed, how does the wireless power work? Surely it can't pass juice through the metal of the frame.

Ed, how does the wireless power work? Surely it can't pass juice through the metal of the frame.

The ones above are out of stock in SJS.

You can go into an old-fashioned hardware shop and ask for p-clips, they're what you need. I've got a bunch I bought years ago but never used around somewhere. If I run into them I'll PM you.

P-clips come in different sizes, so check how wide your stays are.

I have a massive tyred city monster truck bike beast planned for an old "all terrain bike" frame. Needs Wheels and shit that cost monies I don't has right now. Pooooop!

But when it's done can I crush you all beneath my Massive Tyres of Death come on the bruiser bike ride..?

BTW, can you buy replacement crown race seals anywhere? (I lost it) Or am I stuck with buying a whole new headset?

Granted you can't just shrink or stretch a frame at will, I was just chucking an idle thought out.

What came to mind was that you might shorten the chainstays, to tighten up the geometry on the rear triangle and close up a huge clearance. Or got a broken seat tube? Replace it, and at the same time change to track dropouts and bring the seat stays in sharper, to below the TT, to stiffen the ride up a bit. It would only work with certain mods on certain frames though.

Has anyone heard anything of Barry Witcomb in recent times? Last I heard (so it MUST be true), Barry sold the Witcomb name for a stake in the future business - which hasn't materialised. So he may have actually made very little from the deal. :-(

I ran into this thread by accident, looking for an older thread on Whitcomb Bikes.

Just wanted to post to say how much I like this frame. It's way too small for me unforunately, otherwise I'd bite your arm off for it. Beautiful.

I've always felt that mixte frames were pretty compact in the VTT length. I have a long back and I find them cramped. But some do have a low stack height, particularly the racing models. If you buy a dutch bike stem, that would bring the steering position back in towards the rider by maybe 50mm and up almost as much as 310mm (see link below). Plus, with the head tube angle, those tall stems will bring the steering position even closer to the rider - quick bit of trigonometry should tell you how much. I'd guess at around 10cm though

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190679404415?var=490067387164&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I have two mixte frames out in the bike shed, one of them is definitely higher at the front than the other so they do vary a fair bit. I'll head out and measure them later, so I have accurate numbers.

I could potentially post this in the custom bikes thread, but it picks up on two posts in this thread, so I'll risk asking it here.

I was thinking about the query by @BleakReference about a custom bike on a budget and wondered if it might not be cheaper, in some circumstances, to take a frame you like and "modify" it a little, rather than build a whole new bike. And reading about how @Wicksie had a bike modded seems to suggest that this is certainly feasible.

Less welds, less jigging = less time and materials = lower cost ??

Seems like a good re-use of a damaged frame, or perhaps something like a high-end Raleigh made of quality steel but with a BB cut with the non-standard 26tpi threading.

So, has anyone gone for this approach before and just modded a frame, rather than have one built from scratch?

"Horrific"..? You should try getting out more.

Hey, maybe we should make a "Hipsters don't wear Raffa" design for the LFGSS t-shirt competition.

Or maybe would that be buying into a lifestyle..? Hmmm...

The point I'm labouring

Yes, you are rather, aren't you.

The point of the thread (as a whole) is "buying into a lifestyle". And you're arguing at great length about the exact definition of a hipster, and missing the wider point that hipsters are people who are accused of buying into a lifestyle (which is the point of the thread). They are just an example of SOME people who might do this thing. SOME people might buy Waffa because they feel it makes a statement about them. Like some people would choose a BMW over another car. Etc. etc.

WE. KNOW. HIPSTERS. DON'T. WEAR. WAFFA. OK.

How long are the current cranks, centre to centre? They do look a bit close to the ground in that picture.

They look decent!!

Anyone know the shortestbcrank arms you can get?

It's odd that you need "the shortest cranks ever made, ever" - after all, you've only dropped from the original 630mm rims to 622mm (700C). So your bike is just 4mm closer to the floor than the original design.

You can get (junior) cranks down in the 150mm range but unless your current cranks are super-long, it sounds more like your cornering technique on fixed as much as anything. Personally, I love canting the bike right over in corners and keeping my body slightly more upright, but I've had to do the opposite when riding fixed and keep the bike more upright to maintain pedal clearance but lean my bodyweight across instead.

Instead of shorter cranks (or even as well as) you could try running with wide slicks, like lots of people are doing. That would jack your ride height up by double what you lost in the change of wheel. Good rolling resistance on the wider tyres and a softer ride. Can look a bit strange on old racers though.

Without the noodle, he looks like Shaggy from Scooby Doo.

Nerged for bad facial hair too. And for pot noodle.

Good spot. Looks like it could be a stray piece of Pot Noodle maybe.