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also check out a stem i did recnetly - ebay tiem:

190317052169

i use to build polished air flowed carbs up in the garage and used the same technique on various bike parts.

for around 10 to 15 gbp you can get three polishing wheels (mops plus attahcment for drill and the wax needed)(ideally used on polishing machine) but they just go onto the end of a drill.

most recently i polished the tip of this sante crank (it was dull and oxidised when i got it where the paint had come off) only 15 minutes work

on taped Bb you actually have four positions the cranks can mate up with the BB - north west south east - you might try taking cranks off and repositioning - when mine did it it was much more prominent upon change of acclearation - ie' slwoing after accelerating or accelerating after slowing (assuming you're using the legs to brake here) - this told me it was small movements of the crank around the taper - or loose chainring bolts.

it was a ticking noise - when i tightened crank beofre the grease it gave the very same tick - the kind of metal against metal ("i'm tight now thanks you") noise you get when tightening the wheel nuts of car or a stem bolt etc. etc.

i have this happen on about half my bikes -
in no particular order - here's the options as i see it

a loose (or worn) BB
b loose (or ill fitting) chainring bolts
c knackered pedal
d loose crank bolt (ie. bolt that holds crank to BB)
e ill fitting cranks (taper is wrong or more likley taper on crank or BB axle is worn - i've seen this happen when someone rides with a loose crank bolt and the tapers round off)
g loose cleat or creaky shoe

f - after all this i've still had it - the soulution was to remove crank and grease the taper slightly - it's often very small movements in the crank around the taper (something that over torquing and almost stripping the thread on the crank bolt didn't cure) - make sure you tighten those crank bolts tight - this is actually a likely cause - if it's not this get your knees and ankles checked out

i was talking about from scratch at first - but i just bent these to test the water -
i set up an engine sling over the shoulders and attached to one drop end and stood on the other drop end so that i could leg press the force whilst keeping back straight

here's a picture of a frame in my kitchen

here we go - one of these pairs used to be a maes until i gave it 'the treatment'.

can you guess which pair?

p.s. sante anti porn on there too as i've just finished putting that together - Titanium ring and all OEM mirror crank bolt covers and ring bolts - what do you reckon? sante rules yes?

the first ill advised foray has gone very well - despite what i said - my impatience has far outweighed my prudance and i modded some alluminum maes into some rocking randonneurs in about 20 seconds if that - very symetrical - text book stuff

i'm trying to get pics up but the window for the attachment just bugs up - anyone know why?

i use white spirit with a plastic scourer (like you'd use in the sink for the washing up - not the metal brillo kind unless you really have too) - it's great for rust rash and road tar spots too - and any oil . it will often loosen uo the greae and move it around - wait for it to dry and then a clean cloth will just wipe it away.

while we're here - any alluminum oxide you may find - on hubs, or wherever - needs amonia for best results

thanks - for all the info. i'm guessing i'm hearing what i suspected (it was a bit of a pipe dream anyway) alluminium is too tricky to mess with and steel is going to be too heavy. i've done the odd modification of crash bent bars by getiing my foot in behind one drop and yanking on the other - i wouldn't do it again as a potential slipped disc isn't going to help the riding at all. i know an engineers shop round here i might ask just to put in a couple of msall kinks to widen the flair on some bars i have. or i'll have a bash myself with some of the cheapo items i've got - i'll keep you posted.

does anyone know where a i can get ranndoneurs with a backward (nitto noodle style ) sweep on the top and slighty larger sloping flair than say GB randonneurs - and possibly a deeper drop.

does anyone know how bars are made?

to me they're just a piece of bent pipe that i should be able to tool up to make quite simply - or is it a much more involved proceess

is heat involved or is it just the bending of cold tubing - i want to make some up with my own bends - some extreme randonneur noodles and ultra deep drop track bends and low pro bull bars but with some tow in (chopped flopped maes always seem to tow out) and large flare north road / randonnuer - that kind of thing.

any idea what gauge / grade (4000 / 5000 /6000 grades) of alluminium - or should i be looking at steel ? 4130?

has anyone out there done this? i 'm hoping i can use a plumbers pipe beding machine as long as i can get the tools to get the radius's i want - or am i dreaming this is ever going to work out?

in fact i've not looked yet but do most bars use a series of constant radius bends or varying radius (i just imagine it being easier to get graded radius tools )

i'm going to experiment with bedning some cheap sakae road champ maes into rnadonneurs with a more extreme flare first and see where it goes from there

anyone any experience in this?

the bike's gone now -

p.s. lockrings and track fork ends are overated

cornering

long stem, long seatpost and you're there - i bet the wheel base - and definately the track on these things is pretty much the same however big the frame is - and after that you can space 2 of the 3 contact points (you can even move the crank fore/aft and up/down a little) - according to sheldon all the old bikes were only higher or shorter - all the same length and just fitted with longer/ shorter stems - i'm 5'10" and ride a 56 top tube - as well you might want to be a bit more upright on this as you need some 'slack' in your arms to get the leaning around the corners.how big are you the crane?

reculver - you're right it's like being hypnotised that you can't ride - the guy who i bought it off was telling me how hard it was and i was secretly dismissive but when i got on - he was right - it's nothing like riding a normal bike - practice in a car park or something first

the front wheel on right now cost me 60 for just the ingredients and the saddle is sold
with a well cheapy saddle and old front wheel (you can replace for better items yourself)- and with the extra gear set i'll throw in- your choice campag or the shimano stuff - best i can do is 380.

pickup would be pretty specific i can't take it on the tube and i don't fancy riding around london to where i'm staying so euston on the afternoon of the 2nd - possibly pickup from st katerine's dock (tower hill) at some later time in those 3 days - but i'll probably have been mudered by then by the GF for leaving her on her own to the tube or making her march miles across town with the luggage as i wheel the trike to where we're staying - also i still have to check with virgin on putting it in the train.

anyone in the north west fancy it?

actually not convert but provide the bits on the side - i don't want to get into messing with the diff / rear axle assembly -

i'll chuck in campag front and rear mech to upgrade if it'll sweeten the deal - or i can convert to 21 gears with indexing on more modern 90s shimano gears - LX deore rear shifter - NOS 105 front shifter - exage sport / 105 or 600 shifters- and two extra freewheel blocks - one a wider ratio touring and the other more tight and racey

if anyone in london does facny it let me know as taking a bike on the train needs a reservation beforehand - i'm hoping they'll accept this as a 'bike' so i'd need to check on that too.

i'm going to be down in the urban death maze on july 2,3,4 - i could possibly bring down to deliver if anyone's interested?

thanks it's pretty nice i guess but just hanging around - no good to me - got to go. - i could justify taking maybe 10 days off work with the money - that's 20 extra half days of cycling - that's how i see it anyway - or maybe i'd blow it on two really big carouzing sessions - swaps p/x considered - beer/ diesel / food / bike(s) / fitted kitchen / plane ticket to AUS - / sturmey ASC - or the new replacement hub (about time)

yes it was on ebya - didn't make reserve (which i found out later was a little low anyway) one guy was crazy for it - but with no competitors in the bids could not make the reserve. - been in contact with him - thought he was going to take it off me but can't get any contact off him now - maybe he's dead?

apparently they used these on the track in europe in the 60s - think they'd let me on manchester if i set it up no brakes and fixed??

anyone interested?

i could drop price by 70 gbp if you have your own front wheel and saddle you'd like to use-

i had trouble with an old TA crank - larger size on the thread for pulling crank off. some bike shops carry the older larger size tools (sam at sett valley had one- but even then the threads were knackered)- but i went to wills wheels - in stockport - he had an old tool that was a pair of forked wedges - driven in behind the crank with a hammer and they popped off - no damage to BB or crank. don't try to mock something up though (with a single wedge of some kind) the pressure needs to be even - the two wedges go in one either side. i've tried a single wedge and hammer in the past - it didn't pan out well
i think this was a really old tool from the cotter pin days - if you're near stockport - he's on the A6 in heaton moor - if not maybe some old school shop near you may have one.

i have an old school flywheel puller - (for a cars flywheel - no idea where it can from it's always been in my dads garage - but that could work too - it''ll be a bodge though - that was my paln B - plan C was the angle grinder)

Yeh - i think we're done here.

• consider the thread concluded - the bike is no longer for sale
  
  

to those who have been enjoying some sort of vicarious benefits as a result of choosing to feel personally offended - apologies for withdrawing your outlet

on the trike and wheels i can't move,
nevertheless offers on this.
not sure why everyone thinks it's gaspipe - why??

eyebrows - you obviously didn't build it up properly

• no grease, no oil, no thread lock (which only acts as a lubricant at higher torques) white spirit on both threads - wait until dry then tighten up nice and tight using the chain on the bike as a chain whip - rotax or whatever it's called (BB lopck nut is pretty superfluous but add acording to taste)
  
  

big daddy wayne - no you're operating on false assumptions - i bought the bikes - i didn't sell them - missed out a bit there

oh the pics aren't comming up. F**k it. there you go the gears and hub - not right for polo - how was i to know - i never do it??
finally to put this to bed it was 'polo style' just because it had the chopped riser bars ( - on Ebay i've chucked as many key words as possible in ). you've seen the pic - it is what it is nothing more or less than i've said - a road bike with upright handlebars with suicide hub and a reasonable road gearing for around town
.

you're right mistakes were made , fingers were pointed it went in too high. but considering i've seen 2 used MA2 rims on here - 30 gbp
and one turbo champion stripes leather sadlle - 30 gbp

then 60 gbp is ridculously low. i've seen 2 bikes i paid 25 and 10 gbp respectively go for over 200 gbp each on here - it's bl**dy alchemy - lead into gold - if you want a bargain then buy the tools, put in the hours and travel and take some gambles..........

the trike i'm selling (at lowest book price) i picked up for 160 plus 60gbp for the spokes , rim and hub that make up the front wheel - so what? it's mine it's worth 450 - that's called 'opportunity cost' .

anymore info on frame anyone?????

• it's 80s/90s so should be columbus - Diamant is from belguim

  • serious offers?????