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i'm trying to find a way to lock my front wheel on. I use a bold on axle, though, so those locking skewer products do me no good. anyone know of any thing?

I love this thread. It makes my head hurt, but my inner geek is smiling.

if your outer geek manages to keep a straight face, you're gold.

timbuk2 = crap

local builder

Cicli Polito:

This is the most beautiful bike i've ever seen in person. It won top honors at the 2009 NAHBS show. It's a faithful remake of a 1950s grass track racer. This particular one was built to pay homage to the late Norm Taylor of Jack Taylor Cycles and aside from notable exceptions such as the frame itself and tires, virtually everything else is of the proper vintage, right down to the 1"-pitch drivetrain.

The seat tube takes a dramatic curve around the rear wheel, the fork blades are brazed to a wonderfully unique crown and all of the tubes are finished in a metallic burnt orange finish with nice box pinstriping.

All done...
finally

Shouts out to Gabes, Shinscar, Keith, Gav, Marcola & Odge without whom, it would look v.different.

sickening.

my only thought is that i can't get excited about aluminum bikes which aren't being raced or used as a proper road bike.

beyond that. goferit

Those Vanillas are lush, want this one!! Sooooooo much, minus the chainguard though... with a coaster brake and none of this disc brake/ dodgy modern looking lights carry-on ;)

the last two, one of which you cited, is not Vanilla. It is A.N.T.

and i wouldn't change a thing about any bike he does.

I dream of having one of his Light Roadsters.

here's the site*
http://antbikemike.wordpress.com/

*Vanilla is truly "porn". dig it:
http://vanillabicycles.com/[URL="http://vanillabicycles.com/frames/track/2/"][/URL]

alright i'll toss in. sorry for the big images. smaller ones were crap.

Vanilla Cycles

A.N.T.

depends on the clip and the shoes you usually ride in. you decide.

consider toe overlap with the wheel though, because it can be whack with toe-clips.

also a biggish clip is more annoying than a smallish one.

i'd personally go with the smaller of the two options i'm considering for the above two reasons.

i ride a small soma (comes in only two sizes though) and i have a 6.5/7 foot

you see all kinds of this crap over at copenhagen cycle chic dot com yea

lately....

Spoon
Ratatat
Dylan
Deerhunter

not about to dig up videos

i just keep my toenails really short, and i carry a nail clipper in my pocket for emergencies.

cant believe this Im so pissed off

etc...

hope you are ok. sorry your bike is damaged. accidents suck. the accident is your fault. if you were in a car, do you think it'd be any other way? you cut him off, blinker or not. I bet you'll never do that again.

MKS Custom Nuevo, MKS Doubles, Soma 4 gate

for those that don't know... Never shell out for the Neuvos. They are awesome, but they are designed for Keirin track shoes. and have a very tall rear plate to fit in the cleat. This is super rough on your feet. I only ride them because I got them free and haven't bothered to swap it out.

Hipster Fixie Says "I'm Not Radist", Though Friends and Neighbors Disagree

London—"I don't understand it." says Rusty of the fixie community while wearing the tightest jeans this reporter has ever seen. "Do those spokes go all the way though the hub and to the other side of the rim?" RPM says, in support of radial lacing, "Even good stuff breaks occasionally" All around London, hipster fixters are becomming concerned about their friend Hat He Chewed and his side kick teenslain. More...

it's hub-flange fail on a hub (and spokes) designed for radial lacing, and mavic should replace it.

don't turn this into a "radial sucks" thread because it's simply not true for front wheels.

radial patterns on the rear wheel warrant some discussion because there are other forces involved.

p.s. not that it applies, but i've been riding those wheels on the street now since about the same time. no problems.

curmudgeon

Anatomy

Same one in colour:

soooooo tight.

im pretty sure that this is a back wheel using radial spoke pattern
but for some reason unknown to me you cant do it on both sides?
although how does that work with a flip flop hub?
someone explain please...

post was a few pages back, but i didn't come across a good answer so i thought i'd chime in.

in general, when forces are distributed to the rim, through the hub, you are relying on the spokes.

Now imagine twisting a string around a pencil. the string doesn't sick out straight from the center of the pencil (as in the radial wheels), but sticks out at a tangent to the edge of the pencil. this is because that is the most efficient way to move the string. if you radially laced a rear hub, it would attempt to twist with each pedal stroke to position the spokes at a tangent, like the string/pencil. At the first few degrees of this motion, the hub has a huge advantage over the spokes, and so this action would place an enormous amount of force/tension on the hub/spokes.

As you move closer to a tangent, the hub loses a lot of it's advantage, and the spokes need less tension to hold the hub from spinning inside the rim. this is why when you build a drive wheel, you cross the spokes in opposite directions in a pattern such that the spokes are all coming off at a tangent.

Front wheels never experience forces delivered through the hub, so they are ok with radially laced wheels.

you will never see a radially laced wheel which has a disc brake though, and this is for the same reason.

The crossing pattern has an affect on this property as well.

i'm not sure who this is worse for. Joe Wang or Not Joe Wang....

not sure if the thread is serious, but... put your weight on your arms, and of course, if you are riding a bike with 90 gear inches is going to be tough. skidding isn't really necessary. get a brake for when you are first learning to ride, otherwise you're going to slam into something at a convincing clip. TO make it worse, before impact you'll have a few seconds to think, "i can't stop because i'm riding this dumb fucking bike"

4-5

Geared: Cervelo Soloist
Fixed: Waterford F22
Single: IRO Mark V (this bike has seen a lot)
MTB: Clifcat Tankass

plus some other crap which is laying around. old schwinns, Raleighs, etc... Various beaters I can build up in a few minutes for friends when duty calls

The pretty Cervelo and the Waterford are neatly displayed in my place on a floor-to0ceiling rack i built. The others live in the basement where i have a little shop.

That post from tommasini is scary, they don't really sound like they know what they are doing.

Fork rake and headtube angle are inextricably linked.

When I was at the workshop of a certain experienced frame builder recently, 'Right, the fork rake on those is 28mm, so you will have to have a 75 degree headtube'

35mm sounds a bit slack to me. Will make for an awful weird ride with a steep headtube. My dolan has 30mm fork rake on a 74 degree headtube and the bianchi pista is 28mm.

My new frame, and I trust the experience of the builder, is 57cm c to c in both directions, 75 seat, 75 head, with 28mm fork, rear clearance will be 0mm on 22mm tubs to keep the rear stays short, and it is either 11.25 or 11.5 inch BB hight (I can't remember). That felt really nice for me on the jig and should handle well, I'm using a 12 stem.

this is where i started to get overwhelmed (see my above post). From the BB shell forward, there are a lot of variables which are all dependent on one-another for bike that will actually ride. I mean you can reallly fuck up the bike if the trail isn't dialed.

If i were building the bike in this thread, i would gank the geometry of the front (i.e. the headtube angle and fokr length/rake) of a Keirin or some other tight track bike and i wouldn't touch it. Leave it alone.

Then i would shorten the back as much as possible and put some super long dropouts on it for adjustment. I would give a 50-60mm drop to the BB shell.

and then i would muck about with the seat tube angle/length depending on if i want a ride the places me over the front wheel Vs a ride the moves my ass backwards. I'd prolly go 1 degree slacker than whatever the headtube is.   

I like a shorter bike, so i'd keep the TT length on the shorter end of "normal"

I'd plug that into that link i posted earlier, fill in the other dimensions logically (mabye a slight sylish dip to the toptube?), and then i'd print out the dimensions.

yea. not sure why i typed all of that out, but i enjoyed it.

http://www.bikeforest.com/CAD/

ok i've edited this post about 700 times after playing with this program. good luck. i'm completely overwhelmed. I ride a 56cm in the following geometry with a track fork build specifically for the bike.

http://waterfordbikes.com/now/geos.php?Model=1928

thats all i got to offer.