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Remove & rotate your wheel often, thus extending the range of skid patches.
Watch where your skidding, some surfaces will cut up tyres quicker, obvious i know but important to note, easy to get carried away.If you use a gear ratio that isn't easily divisible then I think you get more even tyre wear? For example 16:48 will mean you always wear the same bit of tyre but the more decimals in your ratio when divided will spread the wear more? Does that make sense?
eh?
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Cheers,
Will go the half link route (if I can find a shop that will post to France for less than twice the price of the item!).
Going to get my tyres sorted once I find out what the french for anti puncture tape is....
I think i'll keep the stem for now. Need to ride it before making any more purchases...
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Hi, newish to the forum. My first fixed gear project. I have a few questions (hopefully got the correct thread).....
I bought this Peogeot road bike for €25. I've identified it as a 1983 PSV10 which I think was at the top end of their range that year...
Does the rear axel look like it is far enough in the dropouts? The chain was a bit slack when it was fully in so I removed another link and now it's only just in. The axel is fully in the dropout but the nut doesn't have 100% contact.
1) If i run a half link 1/8 chain to improve tension on a 32/3 sprocket and chainring will it rattle about?
I've got 42 chainring / 14 sprocket which I have a feeling might be too high (80.2 gear inches) so the dropout problem might be solved I guess by increasing the rear sproket size.
2) I have to put the chainring on the middle ring space on the crack to get the best chainline. Works OK but could look better. Is it possible to change the axel spacing on the BB? I don't think its a cartridge... It's a flip flop hub so I don't want to respace/redish the wheel.
3) THe stem is an Atax stem. I read somewhere about these failing? Is it advised to replace this?
4) The stem wont go any lower into the steerer as shown in lowest position in the picture. Do you think this is due to the taper of the stem? Or if i cut an inch off will it go down further?
Any other advice based on the photos would be appreciated. Cheers
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the mountain bike is yours for $12k
http://thebikelab.com/2007/11/19/the-delta-7-sports-arantix-mountain-bike-frame/
300 man hours per frame!
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I saw this at a trade show in Munich in February. I don't know if it's a repost. They were showing off a carbon fibre structure which was supposed to be super strong. It's all hand made:
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/weazlepopper/carbonframe.jpg
poor quality due to rubbish camera
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Just picked this up for the bargin price of €25. Waiting for the wheels to arrive. Currently running it as single speed on the old cartridge. Bike seems pretty light and I think most of the components have been upgraded.
I've chopped the bars down and flipped them but can't decide if I want TT brakes or a straight bar brakes...Will post more as it goes on
Just found this is in the street*
Some kind of 1970s touring bike I guess. No braise-ons for the cabling but lots for front and back racks, dynamo. Frame is nearly spotless, few scrathces on the decals but sound apart from that. Mud guards look in really good condition. Old leather saddle - see branding detail. Not heard of the tubing, guess its own brand. Been looking for a bigger frame to try out having risers instead of bullbars so this will do. Will keep you updated.
http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k125/weazlepopper/moto.jpg
*The French town I'm staying in is divided into 4 sections and each section has a big rubbish disposal day once a month. So every week you can go out round town looking through the big crap that people throw away. This week was the turn of one of the more affluent areas and I found this bike (3rd bike this year :)). Guessing it was being thrown away due to lack of handleage.