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The Kodak "PlayFull" turned up this morning.

First impressions are good- it's solidly built, has a built in (full size!) USB plug for connecting to a laptop, and the menu system is logical and comprehensive.

Wow, quick delivery!

Please share the battery life performance. Looking on you tube, video footage comes out pretty well. Low light is not great.

Will need to order one myself.

I'm not sure.
One of the things that makes cameras like the gopro so popular with people in the extreme sports world is the ease of mounting and hugs range of accessories available.
For cycling most of us would use a simple headmount, might look like a twerp riding around with a large phone looking thing on your head.
I'd say you should go for it.

How different is the Go Pro in appearance to a phone shaped camera?

http://gp1.pinkbike.org/p4pb5875094/p4pb5875094.jpg

I agree that in terms of mounting Go Pro offers heaps of good accessories. And the traditional cycle tube shaped cameras look better.

However, the specs just seem so much better on this min cam corders. You could always mount this camera on your chest/shoulder/handle bars. Not ideal (versus head mounted) but a potential workaround.

Go Pro Hero 2:
720p = 1280x720 pixels (16:9), 30 fps or 60 fps

Kodak Zx1:
720p HD 30 or 60fps

The Kodak waterproof camera start at £30.

Battery life and storage space is also much better on the cam corders. Unsure about the lenses but likely to be digital zoom, so comparible to cycle cams. Low light shots also look good from some Youtube postings.

To me the cycle cams feel like a gimmick, apart from the mounting.

I was considering buying a cycle cam however many seem to have mixed reviews, unless you willing to fork out £150 or more.

There are plenty of good standard HD digital video camera around £50. Has anyone had any experience with riding along with a basic cam?

I can imagine mounting the thing could be a problem, but would the quality differ?

Example:
[ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kodak-Playfull-Waterproof-Video-Camera/dp/B005EG3GZG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1365633650&sr=8-3&keywords=Kodak+PlayFull"]Kodak Playfull Waterproof Video Camera - White 2.0: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo[/ame]
[ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kodak-Playfull-Waterproof-Video-Camera/dp/B005EG3H3W/ref=pd_sim_ph_1"]Kodak Playfull Waterproof Video Camera - Black 2.0: Amazon.co.uk: Camera & Photo[/ame]

Just heard about this on BBC London News. Sad news. Cyclist has not been formally identified. Victoria Street is horrible for cars, trucks, cyclists and pedestrians. Doesn't appear HGV had any cyclist friendly mirrors etc

Two pics attached.

Pic 1 - Photo of bicycle (warning - may not be suitable viewing)

Pic 2 - Photo of suspect truck

EDIT: Photos removed unless deemed appropriate for the forum.

Apologies - newbie question.

I have a tyre with the sizing description 37-622. It has a schrader valve.

According to the Euro sizing chart, this equates to:
700 x 37C
(28 x 1 3/8) or (28 x 1 3/8 x 1 5/8)
(sometimes labelled 700 x 35C)

I take it my wheel size is 700c. Width 37c.

What inner tube size can I buy?
I take it as long as the figure is 37 or above I will be fine?
Would a 28-37 be better than a 32-47?
Any recommendations?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/continental-quality-road-inner-tube/
700x28-42
700x28-37
700x32-47

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-road-inner-tube/
700x28-42

Thanks for the responses!

create a thread about it.

I did but it was moved into this one for some odd reason.

The switches can be shit, try pressing it a bunch of times. Check for water inside, blow it out with compressed air. Leave to dry out somewhere. Try again. Bin.

I imagine the rain has got into the working parts. The bottom clip is also broken.

How old is it? Lights from bigger manufacturers generally have a warranty, Topeaks is 2 years!

Probably time for a new set (after 3.5 years)! I have felt these cat eye lights are not bright enough anyway.

My front light suddenly stopped working. Fresh batteries as well. Light looked dimmer than usual last few days. Now doesn't turn on.

Any remedies or throw in the bin?

Thanks for the suggestion. I guess I am trying to determine if I am at fault (as a cyclist) or this is just reckless driving by motorists. It feels like the later but trying to hear from others on the best strategy.

I have been commuting for approximately 6 years in London. I changed my route about 2 years ago and have felt more unsafe than ever before. (The alternative routes are worse.)

Some of the route involves two way roads with street parking on both sides. The road narrows and widens forcing road traffic to compete with cycle traffic.

I normally ride quite defensively to avoid vehicles from passing on narrow parts. When possible and safe to do so, I make room for a vehicle to overtake.

One particular part is an exit of a roundabout into a narrow road (with street parking). In the past few months several cars at the exit have narrowly forced themselves past me and forced me either to slam on the brakes or swerve within millimetres of the parked car to avoid being hit.

Questions - How can I avoid this? Should I stop and let all vehicle traffic past? Should I ride wider out of the exit to block out cars? Can I report their driving to the police without video evidence?

I want to try be civil without getting run over.

I commented on this incident in another thread. Someone posted a more gruesome account...
https://www.lfgss.com/thread10227-3.html

I read the more detailed news article this morning:

Investigators said initial reports suggested the cyclist had collided with an open car door prior to hitting a single decker bus. The driver of that car, an Audi, was arrested and is in police custody tonight. A post-mortem is expected to take place on Monday. Next of kin have been informed.

Not to point blame here but this highlights the importance of visibility and assertive cycling (avoiding the door zones). Stay safe!

RIP

I went past the scene soon after it happened.

It occurred southbound on Holloway Road outside the McDonald's (corner Jackson Road). Bus 153 had stopped at the end of the bus lane about 2 meters from the curb. Bicycle looked intact but sadly cyclist appeared stuck underneath.

Pretty upsetting as I have ridden that route a few times. I think the bus lane ends for a little bit as the road narrows towards an intersection. It would be interesting to know what happened to avoid getting caught out.

RIP

After further adjusting I managed to ride my bike a few metres before the issue continued. I dropped into my local bicycle shop for diagnosis.

They pointed to the freehub needing replacing. If this doesn't fix the issue, then a new cassette and chain would be required.

They suggested instead of paying for a freehub that I replace the whole wheel for approx £50. A new chain and cassette would be around another £50.

I don't think I have much choice! Thanks for all the responses. Hopefully the new parts will resolve the issue.

Does the positioning look incorrect?

Would this cause the issue of the chain skipping over (not engaging) the rear cassette sprockets?

I will try some oil in the freehub to see if it resolves any sticking pawl issue.

I spent time this morning tweaking cables, chain and derailleurs.

Gear shifting is working perfectly! However slippage issue continues albeit now only on three smallest cassette wheels.

The chain seems okay. I checked for stiff links and tension and it appears fine.

What I can work out (as a novice) is that there appears to be a defect in the rear cassette. On close inspection the second (7) and third (6) sprocket (?) are bent or skew. For example, when select 5 you may jump to 7. When selecting 6 it jumps down to 7.

I tried to examine the teeth to determine if they are worn but cannot really tell. No individual teeth are bent or damaged.

I have attached some pics:
1) Low Gear - Positioning looks correct
2) High Gear - Positioning looks correct
3) Cassette - Doesn't really clearly show the issue, but when spinning pedals it appeared the highest gear sprockets weren't running smoothly or straight.
4) Cassette Teeth - Not really clear if any wear?

Another suggestion was to check the freehub body but not sure how I would do thsi without taking off the wheel and cassette?

Assuming it is a cassette issue - I take it I need to replace cassette and chain? Cost £50?

I will try and take some better photos tonight.

The reason I posted the pic was I wasn't sure if the chain and deraulier arm were positioned correctly. I was thinking the loss in tension was caused by the arm being too upward?

Thanks again.

I will read up on the links provided. I will first look for any rusting inside cable housing then any rear derailleur (or cable) adjusting.

Hopefully it will be an easy fix.

Thanks for the responses.

It seems that adjusting the L&H screws may not be the solution. The chain is not slipping off the freewheel - ie no over or undershifting is occuring. The gears are shifting correct.

The slipping happens in any gear so don't think it is worn teeth on the cassette.
Chain tension or arm tension sounds closer to the problem. When I turn the pedals the chain just doesn't have enough tension to take hold of the rear cassette.

How do I resolve this? Would I still need to adjust or reindex cables?

I reported some strange gear shifting behaviour a few months ago. I suspected an issue with the chain. I had a play around and everything seemed okay until recently.

Now when I turn the pedals the chainwheel does not turn at all. The chain just moves over the rear freewheel (ie no teeth are grabbing the chain). During the week the issue got worse and worse until now I cannot ride the bike at all. Issue happens in all rear gear settings.

I have tried adjusting the rear derailleur adjustment screws. This doesn't help.
Any suggestions?

I have attached photos but don't think they will help.

Thanks for the replies.

The chain was changed within the last 12 months, so hoping that does need replacing. I will have a look for any noticable signs of wear.

It feels like some sort of derailleur issue because of the slip into low gear? ie I am riding in a hard'ish gear (3:5) and then suddenly it feels too easy like (3:1). Although I haven't actually looked down to see the position of chain and gears.

Not sure if it makes any difference to mention, but this happens on flat road. I don't think I am applying significant force on the pedals. Thinking back, the problem did occur more and worse when riding 2:4 or 2:5 (front on the middle cog).

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3] [/SIZE][/FONT]

Gears randomly shifting?

Not sure what the issue is here but hoping for some ideas/advice...

I am riding a 8 speed hybrid (3 x 8) bike.

When I am pedalling along (typically in 3:4 or 3:5) sometimes I experience the bike shift from a comfortable high'ish gear to a very low gear (on it’s own!). After almost losing control of the bike:

• Sometimes it returns immediately back to the high gear (on it's own!); or
  
• Sometimes it remains in the low gear for several revolutions before going back to normal; or
  
• Sometimes it remains in the low gear and I need to change up/down to revert to normal.
  
  

I have tried to repeat the effect however I cannot. It seems to happen randomly.
It does not look like the front chain ring is changing but it may well be something happening on the rear cogs or derailleur?

The chain was replaced (and not the chain wheel) a long time ago. There was some chain slipping in 3:4 but this stopped happening a while ago. The problem happening now feels and acts differently.

I did a search around but not sure how to technically describe the issues.

Hi,
My previous set of allen keys can no longer adjust anything on my bike. It seems they have worn down fairly quickly and therefore are now useless.

Can anyone recommend a good quality multi-tool set? Or what material they tool should be made of?

I don't have a budget at the moment, but I guess anything under £20 would be great. It only has to have the basic set of keys etc.

Thanks!

I bought these in error. Brand new, but removed from cardboard packaging.

Drop me a line if you wish to purchase these or swap. I do need a replacement peedle (for a Rydgeback Hybrid).

SHIMANO ULTEGRA/105/RX100/EXAGE BRAKE BLOCKS

Ultegra brake blocks - will also fit 105, RX100 and Exage brakes. Pairs are individually packaged. Come complete with mounting hardware.

http://www.parker-international.co.uk/4592/Shimano-Ultegra-Brake-Blocks.html

I am considering the three options below...

1 and 2 are lightweight shell type jackets. I know the Montane has receievd positive reviews (except for one - someone claiming the jackets loses it's waterproofing?).

3 is also lightweight, but has the option to remove the sleeves - useful for a summar high viz option. Anyone have one of these? Is it worth the extra cash?

Right now looking for something light, waterproof and high viz to get me through winter. Montane seems like the best value for money option (after Lidl).

Pearl Izumi Elite Barrier Convertible Jacket £67.99
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/pearl-izumi/elite-barrier-convertible-jacket-ec020123

Montane FeatherLite H2O Jacket From £39.99
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Reviews.aspx?ModelID=29853

Endura Gridlock Jacket - High Viz Yellow / Black $44.99
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Endura-Endura-Gridlock-Jacket--High-Viz-Yellow--Black-12882.htm

One of my pedals has a crack going through it and reckon it needs replacing (soon).

Any ideas on a budget replacement?

I don't need any clip like pedals. Just stock standard that isn't going to rust up or fall off.

Looking on eBay I can pick up alloy, nylon, plastic. What is the best?

Thanks in advance.

This has recently started happening and hoping there is an easy fix...

I am riding along, shift (front) gears and suddenly chain stops turning. Stop and get off, discover a bit of the chain is stick between chain wheels. It takes some reversing of the back wheel to get the chain unstuck.

What needs adjusting or fixing? Is it a problem with the chain or front derailleur?