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The kids can eat these.

Woah, they must be really bad!

Sainos Plant Pioneers

Same for the Tesco equivalent, not worth it.

Thanks, and @zooeyzooey too!

I picked these up relatively cheap on ebay, seems everyone bought the Leviathon box for half of the minis. I'm not a fast painter and I don't get a lot of time for painting so these have probably taken me a month. To save some time I skipped a step in building up the greys on some of them and tbh you wouldn't notice it. I enjoy painting but six layers on power armour does become a bit of a chore!

Barring some small detail these are done. Tried some new techniques on these so they don't prefectly match the other 5 but that's ok. Just need to decide on a pack marking and pop a few transfers on. Pretty pleased with how they turned out.

Nice! Love a good orc. Used to have an orcs and goblins army back in the Old World. Still got the Games Day black orc mini in packaging - probably 25 years old!

carp pond

Having something soft under the pond liner to stop it from puncturing on sharp stones (or in my garden, the endless broken glass we keep digging up) is the correct way to make a pond so maybe they over-bought when digging the pond?

Found a big ring of trooping funnels yesterday. Tasted good but not a great texture, very tough and chewy. They were quite big ones so maybe smaller ones would be nicer to eat? I think they'd be good chopped up small in a dish though.

Had some very strange dreams last night which may or may not be linked to eating mushrooms found in the woods.

I asked ChatGPT and it reckons web scraping and caching:

Nitter is an alternative front-end for Twitter that provides a more privacy-focused and lightweight experience compared to the official Twitter website. It operates by scraping Twitter's public data rather than using Twitter's official API. Here's a simplified explanation of how Nitter works:

Web Scraping: Nitter uses web scraping techniques to fetch data from Twitter's public pages. Web scraping involves parsing and extracting information from the HTML of web pages.

Privacy Enhancement: Nitter focuses on user privacy by removing tracking elements, scripts, and other components that may be present on the official Twitter website. This results in a faster and more privacy-friendly experience for users.

Caching: To reduce the load on Twitter's servers and improve performance, Nitter implements caching. This means that once it fetches data from Twitter, it stores that data locally for a certain period. Subsequent requests for the same data can then be served from the cache instead of fetching it again from Twitter.

Twitter has an api so you got to nitter.net/whatever, nitter pass the "whatever" into the api call and get the data for the tweet back and present it to you without all the bloat/adverts/tracking etc of the twitter pages.

Of course this means that nitter could potentially be adding their own bloat/adverts/tracking etc - either already or in the future.

The more you learn the more you realise how little you know!

Thanks for all the brush chat. Plenty to think about but someone said a different brush for metallics. This is news to me, are metallics particularly bad for brushes or something? I normally just use the same one for most stuff unless I need a smaller brush for detail etc.

So you could feed a bit of copper through the hole, then fit your compression fitting onto the top of that (assuming that is what is in your original pic).

If you can't be arsed getting the pipe to line up nicely then use a flexible tap tail from the current pipe onto a short section of pipe which goes through the worktop, the fitting on the end of the pipe that sticks up will hold it in place. It's a bit of a bodge but would work and probably the easiest solution. Though compression fittings and copper are pretty easy to work with tbh so routing the pipe nicely wouldn't be difficult.

Edit: I am assuming you already have a T off a cold water pipe somewhere under the worktop? If not that's another relatively easy one to do.

What is the braided hose for? Can you feed pipe through the worktop and then attach the hose up top? Would probably be a lot easier than filing out the hole.

Good stuff in here recently. Keep it coming!

Brushes: Are the posh sable ones worth it? I'm naturally relucatant to ask for anything expensive but my mum wants to give me something for xmas and it might as well be something I'll use so was thinking a nice brush and some brush soap so I can look after it.

Currently I use a set from amazon that cost about £7 which do ok but there are times when I find a brush that held its shape better, kept the nice point, or held more paint might be useful.

Looking at Windsor and Newton and they are significantly more for a single brush. If they are a "look after it and it'll last for your grandkids to use" type quality then I can see the value.

looks like a bit of a shonky install

Was my first thought too!

the wire in the plug pulled loose and was making an intermittent connection which can cause stuff to overheat

This happened to me with an old hoover. When I opened up the plug thinking the fuse must have gone I realised the neutral grub screw was completely loose. Killed the hoover when it popped which is probably preferable to starting a house fire!

Friend just offered me some wood hedgehogs... So that's lunch sorted :)

White Scars

I love the idea of a White Scars style force, fast moving hit and run tactics. With the new codex I can use existing models in the army without having to have them all painted up as WS (I have Space Wolves but only because that is what teenage me had). I think some outriders will be the next unit I get, but told myself I have to finish the combat patrol I got in Sept before I buy any more models!

It was an experiment last night, I want them to look yellow to fit with the rest of the army but less bright to fit with the theme/lore. I think it works.

I could have used a yellow, orange or red (maybe) wash to get the effect I wanted but I don't have those!

I tend to think about building pigment with various layers to come up to the colour I want so washes are a bit counter-intuitive to me. It's all a learning curve and fun to experiment. I normally do one as a test before doing the rest of the squad so with these I did one nuln oil and one agrax earthshade so I could compare.

TBH I'm enjoying painting much more than I used to. Even got excited yesterday thinking about masking off some pack markings (they are Space Wolves) when I had the idea of using negative space to make the shape haha.

I've had similar with long extension cables but that was plugged in overnight charging some big lead acid batteries with multiple extension cords chained together. The bit that melted was by the bed :s (narrowboat so limited space or options for routing cables in an emergency).

Hopefully it's the extension lead at fault as that's much easier to replace!

If your mate has time then you could ask them to spur off (or even better if they can extend the ring) to have another socket closer to the machine so you aren't reliant on extensions.
This is pretty straightforward to DIY if you have the inclincation.

Yellow is a bugger to get even coverage. I start with a red-brown (bugman's glow, I think) base - orange would work too, then a 50/50 mix with a yellow, then the yellow (or yellows if I want a lighter highlight).

I've used a brown wash (agrax eathshade) over this to take it down a notch for my reivers which have a darker theme that the main army to fit in with the idea that they are stealth troops. Then yellow again for highlights which I think works well - see WIP pic attached. I did a comparison against nuln oil and the brown wash looked much better.

With washes in general I find you sometimes have to put them on quite thick to get them into the recesses and then move the paint around over the flatter bits to get an even coat.

You can replace sockets yourself easily and cheaply enough, take a photo before you take any wires out of the back for reference if you are unsure.
If the cables inside the socket are all melted then I'd probably get a professional opinion / get the cable replaced.

I'd be more concerned about why that didn't trip a fuse somewhere and what caused it in the first place. If you can then check the wiring in the plug itself - though not easy to get those moulded plugs apart. Wouldn't be surprised to see a loose connection somewhere.

The fly agaric is, it turns out, quite safe to consume, when prepared in a specific way

mind blown . gif

Thanks!

half a cardboard box

I was wondering if I could make a cheap DIY one with a cardboard box, computer fan, 9v battery, and readily available filter (e.g. one from a hoover or cooker hood). Idea being that the filter would catch the paint and you wouldn't need to send the exhaust outside. Don't know if the paint vapour particles are too small though and you'd need a specialised (expensive) filter meaning that it would be cheaper to go with just pumping it outside?

Can anyone recommend a basic/beginner airbrush that doesn't break the bank? Initially it'll just be be for priming and base colours. Spray cans are expensive and clog up wasting paint inside :(

Also are spray booths, respirators, extract fans etc all necessary for acrylics? Reading conflicting things online and all the associated paraphenalia would make it significantly more expensive. If I get properly into it then I can justify it but it makes the cost of entry significantly higher.

They still are!