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For a ballpark figure there is a guy selling similar ones on ebay US for USD$99, retail would be way more.

Surplus to requirements I have this never-used Quintana Roo 650c carbon fork with carbon steerer.
Under the paintwork I think the drop-outs and crown are aluminium.
It's a 1 1/8th steerer, and the un-cut steerer is 300mm long.
It's aero profile and weighs in at bang on 600g.

I'm open to offer's, and happy to post it at cost, or meet / collection in London so give me a shout if you're interested.

Cheers!

A

I presume it's the same as if you were driving a car - solid white line in the middle of the road you shouldn't cross, broken white line or none, then it's ok to overtake/filter if it's clear ahead.

Be assertive and go through most junctions, turns etc. smack bang in the middle of your lane. You really don't want someone cutting past you when you're turning. Then pull back in - cars generally won't be going round corners any faster anyway.

I'm hoping grid and mud has magical rust-proofing qualities...

Is £5 to install fairly typical? Is there a tricky bit to putting a bearing on the fork steerer too?

Abus Granit-X plus D-lock through frame and back wheel and cable lock upfront is the way to go if you ask me. I couldn't find anything on google about breaking one of them...

The good Kryptonites are probably just as good too.

I wouldn't use a cable lock as my main lock, I don't think any cable lock would stand up to a pair of bolt-cutters for long.

Nothing with a barrel lock, nothing with a combination lock, and don't leave any room in your d-lock for a car-jack or whatever. Probably the best you can do really.

I have a pair of mtb Deep-V's, got the rims at a bargain price from CRC when they had them in a sale (they don't seem to do them any more sadly...). Got an extra bargain when they turned up dented.
They are bomb-proof, but really stiff even with double-butted spokes.
I do like them, but I wouldn't have them again for commuting.

I find the cross-winds a nightmare on them, surprised if other people don't find the same? Maybe they're worse in the smaller size?

True about the clearcoat, it can cause the paint to bubble up or crackle.

Wouldn't look pretty but you could just spray some primer on the bare metal patches. It would definitely stick to the metal whereas spray paint by itself would quickly flake and peel off.

I'd wonder how well clearcoat would stick to bare metal as well. I suspect it would work better on aluminium than steel, but I've never tried...