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I wouldn't jump to that conclusion, a good quality CNC stainless sprocket will last thousands of miles whereas a 1/8" might be passed it at 1000. I've had this with 100% brand new drivetrain and it goes with a little lube or just a little time for the factory lube to get into all the right places. After all that, if it was one of those £3-4 pressed steel sprockets then it has to go - just have a look for wear ('shark fin stylee') on the teeth.
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Wan't he just the most useful soul! Fuck me that's probably the worst review article I've ever read - my boss, if he knew i was reading this in work time, would be disgusted with the tripe that's on screen eating into my productive time. He'd be happy if it was a Brompton article though. Off to the CTC forum.
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NOW ALL GONE.
- On One front wheel - black large flange track hub, black rim, SS spokes. Barely used but not mint thanks to slightly rusty nuts.
- One Conti gator skin 700c x 23 has done best part of 1000 miles, fucking things keep puncturing on the country lanes at this time of year so I've given up on them and replaced with Vittoria Randonnerus (the back tyre was binned).
- One Schwalbe stelvio 700c x 23 with plenty left on it.
- Pair of 700c x25 vittoria rubinos in red with only a few hundred miles on - abandoned 'cos I haven't quite got the clearance with mudguards.
Pickup from up near the sea walls on the downs. Have yourself some free rubber to destroy so smart arses like me can't tell you that brake pads are cheaper than tyres ;)
- On One front wheel - black large flange track hub, black rim, SS spokes. Barely used but not mint thanks to slightly rusty nuts.
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Thanks again to everyone who posted in the previous *questionnaire *thread. Invaluable information gained.
Below is another questionnaire. For those of you who didn't read the previous thread, I'm a jammy final year product design student who is doing fixed-gear stuff for his major project.
Responses to questionnaire very VERY much appreciated, and wil help me with my project a great deal.
Thanks!
Q1: Do you have fliers/spoke cards in your spokes?
No, I'm too old to be 'down with the kids'.
**Q2: Which of the following do you do on your fixed-gear bike **(indicate all that apply):
- Commute/get from 'A' to 'B'/long rides.
**
Q3: Do you ever use a mudguard on your fixed gear bike? **
Yes, essential British accessory for about 50 weeks of the year.
Q4: How do you feel a mudguard affects the aesthetics of fixed gear bikes in general?
- Disrupts/spoils/makes worse.
Regardless of the bike it looks worse, but unfortunately this isn't Spain so I find them
essential.Q5: If you get a nipple in your pork scratchings, is this lucky or unlucky?
Neither, it's just really f**king grim!
Thanks in advance to all those who take part.
Ta da!
- Commute/get from 'A' to 'B'/long rides.
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I have never had the gears slip, fall off (unless the bits were knackered). Indexing took me about 30 minutes to figure out, and is turning the H and L screws the right way, really that difficult?
Sorry, I had to chuckle at this even after adjusting for bad grammar, but what you're describing is adjusting the limit screws which has no effect on the indexing of the gears.
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Just a quick nod to a good source for kryptonite locks (cheapest for both when I bought mine):
http://www.saundersonsecurity.co.uk/acatalog/Bicycle_U_Locks.html
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You should definitely part it out - far more money in it. To sell it complete narrows the market down massively to someone who wants that size/style frame and either appreciates the parts or doesn't mind the hassle of strippling and then selling off what they don't want. I think that's probably why it was suggested that £850 was high when in reality it just means it might be difficult to find a buyer.
On that note, how much for the frame? ;-)