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In my LBS yesterday, we were discussing what gear ratio to go for and someone mentioned 48 x 19. LBS guy said "Good idea except they are as rare as hen's teeth right now." Anyone else heard of this? Sounds odd to me.

Lovely gear size on 27" (630) gives 68.2" gear iirc. 1/2 x 1/8 19T cogs are in relative short supply, Whiskers have been out of stock of their Andell 19T sprockets for ages. Managed to get a Surly 19T from Ison last week, a tenner too expensive though.

We have 3/32 19T sprockets in stock at work, but no 1/8 atm.

As a lad i bought my first "decent" pair of wheels from Chain reaction. Basically the cost of the wheels was the rims and hubs, the build-ups were effectively free. . . and they bloody rode as such. Worst pair of wheels i have ridden in terms of build. Half the problem was the low quality ACI spokes specced, the other half was that they were "thrown" together.

As Ed suggested, get your wheel laced by a local cycle shop that knows their onions. Benefits include a wheel that stays in one piece and bargain/free wheel truing after care.

I bought a Silca "supapista" (a bit too tall for me really!), but the standard "Pista" is fine, we have one kicking round out workshop @ work 25+ years old, usual quirks, but it works fine. Spares are available from all good cycle shops. For 20-30 notes its a fair investment (my lungs and liver have been lavished in comparison!!) 8)

Edit: The only reason I bought the "Supapista" model is because I was suckered in by the dapper wooden handle!

You might also find that you need different calipers for front and back (if you're running two brakes, of course). I converted an old Raleigh for the gf and needed a long drop for the back, but a normal drop for the front.

This is the case on my Rory O'brien (Also 27" clearances). Drop was at least 10mm greater at the rear.

also, who can i bum a chainwhip off? ta.

Make yer own out of an old steel seat pin and some left over 1/8" / 3/32" chain. Crush the open end of the seat pin in a vice drill 3 holes and get your punch and hammer out.

Were only talking 8mm difference in bead-seat diameters. Which with the right "drop" brakes shouldn't be a problem. You need a weinmann 630 is it?

Anyhoo stick a 622mm rim in and measure from your brake hole to the rim and get hunting for brakes with that drop.

The old boys used to ride 27's, carry their 700c sprints out to time trials, then swap over and race.

I like the wipperman connex chains. the 100 is a cheep run in to the ground chain @ £6.99, for £9.99 you get nickel plating (108) and also the option of a zinc plated chain for the lazy winter days, also around the £9.99 mark.

For me.. purple sugino's with gold chainring bolts..

Cheers, it had a good position to it. Im tempted with a brooks flyer myself. It's crying out for the tweed, pipe and correct facial hair!

I can supply you individual spokes through work. DT comps are (iirc) circa 50p each (maybe more for black). The DT Competitions are a good spoke butting from 2.0mm/14g to 1.8mm/15g and back to 2.0mm. If you want to save weight/ slightly stronger wheel, then DT revolutions are very nice and come in 2.0mm/14g then butt down to 1.5mm/17g and back to 2.0mm.

Interestingly the black spokes come with alloy nipples in silver, which could be exchanged for black. However i highly recommend that you stick with brass (silver) nipples. Alloy nipples have a tendency to seize and snap the heads fairly easily. Weight wise, brass weigh in at 1g a nipple, alloy are a third of this weight each.

Anyhow give me a bell at Madgetts 01379 650419 and ask for Andy, i can post out at base postage cost.

Not fixed or single, but built this up for a customer @ work tother day. Used an old Viking frame that was one step from the skip. Came out alright for £680 (wheels and tyres were £400). So alternate Guvnor, done with a retro frame and new parts.

Rubbish pics sorry.

No worries, my comment was said with a smile on my face.

107 mm ISO BBs are hard to find so that Miche is your best bet. You can use JIS but your chainline would be slightly out, although not enough to worry about.

Phil Wood makes a 108mm ISO bracket for the Miche primato crank. About 80 dollars without cups, but it's good to see "options".

Well it's a Chater-Lea headset as im sure you'll have gathered. It's most likely 1", unless fitted to a tandem/trade bike. I can't give you the official term as i don't know where the Guvnor's hidden his brown brothers catalogue!

Would work with one sprocket, but not 9.

Like this example. Looks like it would be a good idea to develope a sprocket with greatly increased inner thickness (ie the bit that contacts the splines). Would probably only work for single speed, with a slight reduction in chainline versatility, but I'd have thought it was worth it.

Indeed, seems stupid to even have spacers between the sprockets, although pesumably the reason for it is to shave as much weight as possible. However if the sprocket was stepped at the spline, it could act as a spacer. For instance..

9spd (shimano) sprocket is 1.76mm thick, the spacer is 2.56mm thick, why not just make the bottoms of the sprockets 3.04mm thick, keeping the sprocket 1.76mm thick at the teeth where the chain is running.

Whey you say alloy do you mean aluminum (a frequent mistake that is even used on many shop websites) or do you mean a steel based alloy or a aluminum based alloy?

Sorry aluminium alloy. (slaps wrist)

Indeed, the carrier for the cassette. It may well be steel on the trials spec. version. However even on an xc bike the loose sprockets chew up alloy (or even Ti) splines. It's not so bad on campag splines as they are deeper, but Hope dont do campag. Hope seem to have sacked off titanium. Is it too expensive to machine? Prob wears the bits out rapidly.

Kings are wank Mr Badger, not designed for massive torques which is why they fuck up when used in trials, and when they skip they skip a full rotation, they're expensive as fuck and don't last long, i've seen a king seriously fuck up internally after about a year of light trials use. Plus other times, where they just die. Only had bad experiences with them.

They're overpriced pieces of shit.

I rode trials for a good 5 years. Couldn't even begin to afford a king hub then. Got through my fair share of Royce and hope hubs though. I don't think their is any hub on the market that will take the punishment handed out by trials riding without failing (eventually). Paul smith of emmbuck used to rate the sun rear hubs, never ever seen one in the flesh though. CK are expensive, but mainly because their imported from and made in the states.

Their is a host of more affordable hubs on the market. Only complaint of Hope of late is the alloy freehub bodys, soft as funk and resonate in a dead sounding manner.

Hubjub sell the nitto reducer shims.

That'll be Big Al at WheelCraft. He's a legend in the Scottish cycling community. He can talk mind.

No personal experience (my boss (Mick Madgett) trues my wheels), but I have only heard good things of the place, good job there's someone on hand to address your cycle needs :)

Absolutely agreed. Very well explained/described. (waves white flag).

^ Hang on a mo' what I've said IS true, you've just said the exact same thing but the other way round - read what you quoted from me: "face if the BB is not a sealed cartridge type" is the same as what you're saying: "you need to face a b/b shell is when installing the "new type" (Hollowtech II) external bearing cups"! In actual fact you are 'wrong' because strictly speaking you should ALSO face when using any type of BB where the two bearings are not physically joined together which includes the fancy/traditional NJS type like Sugino 75s etc. with separate races ;-)
p.s. 'sealed cartridge type' means any BB where the two races are joined in one piece, like the Miche, Shimano UN series, modern square taper Campag etc.

Can we just check what is meant by sealed cartridge unit. To me, sealed and cartridge is talking about bearings that are sealed within a cartridge, like these..

http://www.treefortbikes.com/349_333222341758__6902-Sealed-Cartridge-Bearing.html

As found in Shimano and all current campy, FSA etc external cups.

You are saying the B/B shell should be faced when installing older "traditional type B/B's. I feel their is no need, because the bearings are located within the shell, therefore they are square to the Right hand cup and the left hand cup is either wound in to meet the drive side and flange-less, or has a lockring and sets the bearing preload.

The reason i feel facing is necessary on the modern external cups, is that the bearings are being in effect sandwiched between the crank and the B/B shell. If the shell is not square, it will cause the bearing to wear, as if there were a tight spot.

Been thinking alot about this, as I am building a ss off roader.

1) Buy nice expensive hub and screw-on free wheel. If the freewheel mechanism goes just buy a new one. If your feeling rich get a White ind with lots of engagments.

2) Buy nice expensive free-hub (Hope Pro II SS/Trials). Chop and change sprockets at will. The internal ratchet/pawl drive is unlikely to fail anyhow, and has lots of engagments.

I'm pretty much 100% sold on option 2.

Any thoughts?

If you are going down the free-hub route, then i know there not cheap, but the Chris King rear ring drive system is an (almost) instant pick-up and can bear loads up to 800 lb/ft of torque. Iv been running one on my atb for about 1500 miles without a slip or groan. They make a s/s specific hub as well. They don't freewheel as "free" as some, but as long as you lube with their own grease they run sweet.

It's Greyville's, i'll chase em up at work and see when they're expecting delivery (if at all).

You only need to face if the BB is not a sealed cartridge type

Not true, the only time you need to face a b/b shell is when installing the "new type" (Hollowtech II) external bearing cups. If they don't sit square to the frame, then the bearings will wear excessively.

If the rear nuts are too small then you need 10mm nuts (3/8th is 9.5mm) If the rear is 10mm, then the front is most prob 9mm.