Search results for:

Royce would do one for definate, Perhaps Phil Wood or paul comp if you ask nicely, or use a 40H hub. That'd be great seeing a 40H Airlight/Racelight/Harden/Bloomfield style hub on a carbon rim!

Would piss the "period" obsessionalists off too! :)

Was the rim a 26 x 1 1/4 dunlop?

Anyone know what tubing it's made out of?

If it's anything like my Maxlight, Easton Ultralight tubed ATB, it'll batter the shit outta you!

A pair of well-abused DVS, with water drainage holes in most corners. Teamed up with Shimano PD-MX30's for what you forum types refer to as "the win".

i have them.
seem all good so far :)

p.s anyone know who makes ti nuts for track type threaded axles?

Try Probolt if you're after 10mm, not sure about 3/8 or 9.5mm though. What your after is the flanged nuts.

http://www.tastynuts.com/acatalog/TITANIUM_shop.html

disc brakes exert more force that a sprocket, just look at the diameter difference and work out the forces with leverage.

Yes appreciated, but you never drive your wheel with your disc brakes... only stop.

I know bolts are extremely strong etc esp. 8.8 or 10.9 tensile. Just seems a bit backward and more effort than buying a 120/130/135mm fixed hub.

Compatability becomes an issue with having to use a 3/8, 9.5mm or 10mm rear axle in a front hub, sounds a bit heath robinson.

Personally 6 m6 bolts holding a sprocket on seem like a bad idea. A shimano splined disc mount with a lockring, wouldn't sound so scary. I just can't see disc brakes exerting the same forces as riding fixed wheel.

Not to mention rounded off-bolts, with threadlock on, when it comes to removal.

11 looseballs works fine, just pack it with grease well upon assembly, to stop the little buggers falling out the cups.

QUESTION - does anyone have a spare sleeve to go in the BB shell for a loose bearing BB?
I can pay in love / beer.

Why don't you drink one of said beers (hopefully canned variety), then cut yourself one out of the leftover can..

If there are some good threads left and it's a case of spacing it out (doubtful) Try sturmey archer 3-spd sprocket spacers.

I do remember servicing one of these, isn't one of the cones fixed to the axle, or not replaceable?

To stop your chain rusting, take it off the bike and either scoot or buy a belt-drive.

Pedals have a standard thread nowadays, which is 9/16. Unlikely they're 1/2", only really found on 1 piece bmx style cranks with Thomson B/B's.

Hi,

I'm also thinking of stripping my frame and am all for the nice'n'shiney look. where is it possible to get a frame chromed?

it costs alot and it's hard to find someone with a big enough bath to dip the whole frame.

True. We had a frame (Dursley pederson anyone?) Nickel plated for a customer. Took it to our powder-coaters to have it stripped in their tank. Ben forgets, blasts it. WE (IE my colleague Tony) spend 3 days rubbing it back with different grade emry, eventually got it plated, cost a fair amout, over 200 beans, but it is possible if you feel the perversion.

I am lusting after a chrome lugged 1920's style road frame, with rusty tubes a 3spd hub, semi-dropped bars and possibly even a 'tash..

Clearcoat powdercoat sounds pimp though.

At work we have some BJ frames with track ends, but with eyes and clearances for mudguards (fairly essential in Naarfuck), also with brake fitments F&R @ £375.

On a pure track frame or fixed wheel road bike, id still rather spend out on the paul ends.. straight up bike porn.

^Effectively a pikey-tech home brew version of a tool all good bike shops should have. If that method doesn't work, try your lbs.

Love my Paselas! Good to know somewhere else has them in all sizes, I've been going to Spa Cycles. Madgetts are in Diss? I will drop by sometime, I sometimes go over to Diss from Suffolk.

Do it chap, the guvnors '51 Ephgrave's kicking around at work atm, if your into old bikes. Also got some Ghisallo Beech wood rims in stock, pressures and sprints.

He's riding £900 carbon wheelset to work.. I think the answer is "yes, mental" :)

Or rich.

Either of the above.. ;)

Joking aside though who are the rims made by?

Depending on how bad the damage is (and whether they are "worth" repairing) It is possible to repair carbon fibre.

But to the paranoid, (perhaps overly) "sensible" mind, you are selling a rear 24H? hub, part worn cassette a lock ring and a front wheel. (spokes aren't worth scrap).

So, I would work on the price of the front wheel secondhand if you were to sell and what the rear hub/wheel is worth to you or anyone else..

As Sainsbury's Ed said, prob best hang on to the front and either re-lace the rear with a Corima (or alternate aftermarket) style rim or sell/"file" the hub.

what is your crank and bb combo? perhaps you're mixing JIS and ISO and so the cranks aren't sitting very tight on the spindle.

This is a valid point, the tapers are different angles, so a mismatched combo could cause the taper to "rock" (and eventually loosen) when fully wound up.

Check that your crank arms are still "square" tapers (not slightly round) and if not try and match tapers when replacing.

My mates cousin runs a metal refinement company, he can do 24ct gold plating, check it out..

http://www.liquidmetalrefinement.co.uk

I took a frame down to him yesterday for a customer who wants it copper plated.

Surely there must be 2.5mm to be had in each stay?

Anyways, I'm all up for a re-space...

Absolutely, people are too paranoid (imo) of re-spacing aluminium frames. You just have to be very careful. Clamp your b/b shell in a vice, get a straight edge and a ruler and your away.

I dont like the idea of holding a sprocket to the hub with 5 M6 bolts though. White Industries 12 spline system looks doap though.

No substitute for "full-length" mudguards, iv even fitted a pair of SKS chromoplastic p50mm guards to my MTB, the use of light-mount brackets, the disc mounts and a few zipties, keeps me nice and dry. Stainless stays and fitments, so they dont look too pikey after a winter of shit.

Will Lithium grease really act as a bonding agent between alloy & steel?

I had previously had a stuck seatpost that I thought was due to a lack of grease and now regularly apply lithium grease.

Has been known. As long as you reguarly clean the post you should be ok, but i'd still try and use either something synthetic with PTFE or a copper slip type anti-sieze.

i use white lithium grease for everything eg bearings, lockrings, pressing in cups, seat posts

Got to be careful with lithium grease. Don't go putting it on an alloy seatpost in a steel frame, it'll act as a bonding agent.

My fave atm is Nimrods' Purple grease, £2.95 for a reasonable size tub. At work we use finishline Teflon, it's a bit thick for some jobs though.

You could run a 46 16, which in 27's would be a 69" gear exactly. Sprockets would have less teeth to spread the wear over though.

Remove lockring, put it back in the bike, bomb down the road and kick back like a donkey..