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A) Is this really saving much effort for the weight penalty + complexity?
B) Should'nt folk be carrying said tool for chain adjustment anyhows?Not if you have chain tensioners and schwalbe marathon plus tyres and/or a i'll take it to a cycle shop if i get a puncture attitude. Or the will/stupidity to fix a puncture with the wheel in the bike.
Tbh though screw-on freewheels are a chore (imo), half of them leave you two teeny dogs to remove them and on average they are a cheap replaceable component. I know white industries monty etc all make loverly 3/32 freewheels. Are they as good/reliable as an internal ratchet/pawl drive freehub?
The benefits of this hub as far as i can see..
Remove/change sprockets with a screw driver in a matter of seconds (also no probs getting 19T sprockets, seem to be in short supply atm).
Hopefully less eccentric than a screw on freewheel (less tight spot).
Swap between fixed and free without removing your wheel (clean hands). -
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Your best off dropping it into a local cycle shop that has a pair of B/B taps, that way they can chase out any dirt caught in the threads.
Or do as de Selby mentioned and make your own makeshift shit-catcher (tech. term) out of an old sealed unit. This worked for me when cleaning the head-bolt threads out in the block of my polo.
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I don't like park chain whips. had one fail on me once. I'm sure this was a one-off faulty product, but a chain whip fail is not fun.
You should make your own then only you are to blame.
Get an old steel seat pin, crush the end in a vice, drill 3 holes, find your old bag of left over chain, join a few bits then set too with a punch and hammer, or if your feeling posh and have 3 x joining links kicking about, your in!
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No one has mentioned the UN54's. I know they have a flange on the drive side, so no adjustment, but for a workhorse sealed B/B the big S have this one figured out available 107-127.5mm. Iv been running one on my MTB (in the shit and rain everyday) for a couple of years now without a peep. At £16.95, they're a bargain too.
For non-sealed it's hard to beat a pair of campy cups, they have ingenious reverse threads inside the bore to force water out. Team up with loose ceramic balls and you're onto a winner, talc for indoor, grease for outdoor.
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What really spins me out. Is the lack of disc mounts for disc brake.
Why else would you need both fixed and free to be on the same side of the hub?Because why engineer an internal freewheel mechanism and then screw a fixed sprocket on the other side, you still have to take your wheel out. That involves using a tool!!!..
where as turning a screw in the hub only involves turning a screw with a tool...
hmmm.
Seriously though, in theory if there was a handle bar mounted lever that changed between the two it would be genius, i mean what's the problem with running a back rim brake (unless you have wooden rims)?
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Wrong, wrong, wrong.. alloy melts at what 600 degrees, steel melts at 1200?
What i is sayin is that all you'll achieve is expanding the alloy inside the steel, if it were t'other way round then it would work.
Get down your local hardwear store and ask for caustic soda, make up a solution in a bucket/jar stick your fork steerer in and leave for a week, the solution will eat away the alloy, but not harm the steel.. bingo.
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Does anyone have any recommendations for 27" tyres?
The "obvious" candidates are Continental Gatorskins/Ultra Sport and Schwalbe Marathons.
Is anyone using anything different that they would recommend?
Im gonna use Panaracers pasela 27 x 1 1/8 on me new Phil woods on weinmann 1 1/4 rims, they look how 1 1/4's should look IMO. They also do them in 1 inch and 1 1/4" sections.
Where i work @ Madgetts cycles, we try and stock 27 x 1, 1 1/8 & 1 1/4 sections in as many different available styles.
The paselas have a "kevlar guard" and are relatively light for steel beads. Also got the nice looking tan walls.
If anyone needs any we can post.
Going back to fitments, it's best to translate the "old way" of sizing into bead seats, in this case 630mm.
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Just had the same prob at work. Trick is to support the hub on the side with the spacer still attached (an old sturmey archer 3 spd hub makes a perfect support). Then with a block of wood and a hammer tap the axle through the hub, it will draw the cartridge bearing out of the hub shell as it knocks through. Then you can hold the axle, without damaging the threaded ends, whilst turning the spacer with an 8mm key.
To refit use a socket bit to support the cart bearing in the hub, so as to stop it being knocked back out and use a socket bit or a drift the same size as the outer bearing race to knock the bearing and axle back into the hub.
Its simple persuation when you think about it.
Where did you get your 130mm spacers from, if you don't mind me asking.
Oops.. double post.