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an easy bit of kit to use would be the Ahead converter adaptor, simply cut fork steerer to size as mentioned in earlier answers as if you were fitting a quill stem then purchase a converter that pops into your steerer/headset tighten up the internal 6mm allen key then clamp your Ahead stem onto the unthreaded protrusion....et voila!
ps: we sell them in our shop for £9.00 and have used one for years with no problems at all
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Velo Club Londres are holding a meeting
>> [VCL New Year's Day Madison Cyclo Cross Herne Hill](http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/web/site/BC/cyx/cyclo_cross_calendar.asp?evt_cp=1&evt_mode=1&evt_id=%7BF2505205-07D2-4F73-B057-4D0ED6FC8088%7D&evt_seriesid=&evt_myevents=No&RefID=&RefType=&evt_month=All&evt_kw=&evt_regions=South+East&evt_disc=Cyclo-Cross&evt_class=&evt_cat=&evt_series=&evt_resultspp=20) <<
no mention of a jumble but their website will give the organisers details.....good luck and wrap up well!!
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have just bought a new pair of Joytech large flange track hubs with sealed bearings (same as on a Bowery) quite cheaply and plan to lace them to a pair of CXP22's, my question is has anyone had experience of these entry level hubs, would they stand up to everyday use tthey seem to be machined ok....
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"Did they actually run PATH-bikes on track? That one has mudguard eyelets.."Path bikes were popular from the 1930's to the early 1960's as this period being the austerity years most serious cyclists had only one bike which doubled up as a commuter/club run bike (....hence the mudguard eyes) then mainly at weekends used in competition for time trials or track use where the mudguards would then be removed and the rear wheel flipped round to give a higher gear, thats why you see a lot of vintage track ends with mudguard eyes!
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although the forks look ok I can see your point if you look long enough....bent forks usually result in a slight crease/ridge on the underside of the downtube and toptube a couple of inches from the headlugs, if you run your finger along the tubes in this area and you can feel a ridge then this would confirm your suspicions if nothing can be found when you build the bike up try riding hands off in a quiet area and if it feels very twitchy and unstable that would also confirm....hopefully all ok!
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have recently purchased a Bowery and am suffering a pain in the left knee that doesn't seem to happen when I ride my old road bike, I've been told it's probably my position but the position I've set up is the same as my road bike ie: saddle height/bar reach and crank length etc. I'm running it on a freewheel and the chainline seems ok also my shoes and SPD's are off my roadbike, am now thinking of changing the bottom bracket length and cranks....can anyone advise or enlighten me? thanks!