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scrap what i said, didn't know about those head-tube extenders

http://www.bikeregister.com/howitworks.htm

Those considering purchasing a secondhand bike can also check a frame number with the bikeregister.com database to confirm it hasn’t been reported stolen.

might have some form of contact details if its stolen

atb

^ :D or ride it backwards

if you don't know what your buying, don't buy it
common sense really isn't it

there's the tool library here
someone local should be able to help

threaded

threadless (ahead)

also that pic says nothing, yes it has a threadless stem, but some bikes come with thread to threadless converters like this from sjsc

Sheldon brown is your friend :)
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/headsets.html

You will need to know whether you need a treaded fork or threadless ( this is determined by the headset)
You will need to know what width steerer you want ( usually 1 inch or 1 1/8 inch)
You will need to know what length of steerer you want (length of head tube, headset and how many spacers you want, so you can tweak you handle bar height)
You will need to know what type of fork you want in terms of wheel size for rim brake mounts( 700cc, 650cc, 26inch etc),
You will need to know what length of fork you want (which is measured in axle to crown length, this is based on the frame geo)
And then there are other thing to take into considerations like whether or not you want mounts for a rack, mud guards, tyre clearance etc

Think ive covered most of it

according to sheldon browns gear calculator i run a 67.5 gi on my all rounder ( 26" 1.5 tyres 38-14)
spinning before a hill is the way to go, the momentum will usually take you up the majority of hills, long climbs are a bitch and very steep long climbs are sometimes impossible (when i have traction i cant turn the crank with all 14 st of me behind it and when i don't i just wheel spin) which usually results in hand on saddle and jogging

its possible if your willing to compromise a tad

ATB

ive just sent my email to local mep :)

cameras sound like a good idea
but that only accounts for the accidents and deaths through visibility issues

what about dangerous driving/cycling etc
hgv drivers (car and van drivers for that matter also) don't seem to realize there in control of potentially a deadly weapon when it comes to cyclist and pedestrians
and that cyclist who put themselves in stupid/dangerous positions are just asking for trouble
educating both parties further is still needed imo

it's a step in the right direction though

thanks for posting this ufrasia

Very important lesson for you:

Most cheap home workshop vices from places like lidl or discount hardware shop selling mainly chinese stuff have serrated/cross-hatched surface on the jaws.

This will mangle your tools.

its not the end of the world if it they do have serrated jaws
2 strips of steel bent at 90 degrees, instead of buying strips and bending you could just get some angle iron, will give you a flat jaw
a bit of double sided tape will stop it sliding about while the vice isnt under load
then you have the best of both worlds

heres a portable vice, you can fit to any worktop, bench, table etc
Irwin Record TV75B Portable Table Vice 3" / 75mm £20.80
heres a decent bench vice at a great price
Sealey Vice 100mm Fixed Base Professional Heavy-Duty £37.95

http://www.tooled-up.com/SubCategory.asp?CID=26&SCID=406

another non bike related one but
it is Friday and it made me smile
http://uk.news.yahoo.com/5/20101104/tod-it-s-all-yours-the-giveaway-lottery-870a197.html

Rule of thumb with trucks is keep away, always stay behind them. They can hit you and never even know.

+1

a couple of seconds saved vs getting squashed is a no brainer

they look identical to the ambrosio hubs, are they not just the same hub rebranded :S
zenith

ambrosio

"Ambrosio products are distributed in the United Kingdom by Riva Sports Industries Limited. Further information on any product featured on this website can be attained directly from RSI."
http://www.rsi-cycles.com/

i hope this is the right place to post this
ti 36er :D

@hanson

where do you plan on putting them?
i'd be a bit worried mounting them to the bike unless you run big tires at a low pressure
road buzz/vibrations will ruin the footage
helmet, head gear or body mounted would be a better option

atb

Dunno if cranks are usually heat treated, though- I thought decent ally cranks are mostly forged items??

the op didn't say what type of cranks they are, or i missed it :)
i think its something like ally = forged, hot or cold, mostly cold because of the strength advantage which also means you can make things lighter
and cro-mo = heat treated
dont quote me on it though :)

Okay

I normally use a small IR thermometer in conjunction with the heat gun.

I understand your point but actually I know heat treatment only from chainrings and bmx cranks, so mostly cro-mo stuff and not alloy like those Miche cranks I was removing, so I guess I should be fine.

oh, ok
if you stayed at 80 you should be fine
again, don't quote me on it :)

bb will go into the bin anyway

just out of interest:

• how does wd40 destroy the bb?

• how would 80°C destroy a heat treatment?

wd40 will break down the lubricant in the bb and you'll be left with a lubricant that is to thin

how do you know it is 80°C?

as soon as you put heat into something that has been treated you start to change its properties
when hardening you heat the metal to the desired temperature then cool the metal down rapidly by quenching it, putting it in water or oil
once its been quenched the metal is extremely hard, but too brittle to use
so the second part of the heat treatment is tempering, taking the metal to a certain °C and letting it cool down slowly, by air or on a warm slab of steel, which softens the metal a little bit to take some of the brittleness away
so putting heat into it and then letting it cool down will temper it even further and effectively make the metal softer/weaker
by how much, who knows, only a rockwell hardness test can tell

wd40, heating and hitting is not a good idea

wd40 can get in the bb and fuck it up
if the cranks are heat treated then you've ruined the process
and hitting something thats connected to bearings is self explanatory

if i said to you it was an 8 speed would you think it was less mechanically wrong?

there is not alot of difference between 8-9 and 10 speeds in terms of movement because spacers and cog thickness are different
ctc of biggest to smallest cog on Campagnolo
Campagnolo 8 speed is 40mm with a centered chainring its 20mm either way
Campagnolo 9-speed is 40.95mm with a centerred chainring its 20.475 mm either way
Campagnolo 10-speed is 41.2mm with a centered chainring its 20.6 mm either way

so there is a 1.2mm difference or .6mm movement either way

I specifically said that it is a bodge, or an impure design, that was made to work....and worked well.

if its made to work and worked well how is it a bodge?
usually a bodge has flaws in the design and don't work
i can see there is minor flaws but not enough to brand it a bodge and if it works it works

if a chainring is centered in the middle of a cassette then there is minimal chain movement, there is probably more movement on a double ( with correct shifting patterns) than there is on a single

so from what you saying every geared bike should have hub gears? because its mechanically right/efficient/pure

ga2g you are talking about efficiency not whether something is mechanically sound

derailleurs move at angles now as well as in and out, so that puts less pressure on the chain

It is a bodge-job.

^pure ignorance

ive been thinking about a 1x set up (1x7 or 1x8) too

2 i wouldnt remove the mechanism from the shifters, i would just cap the cable hole to stop dirt getting in a leave as is

3 iirc cage length is calculated by the difference between the largest and smallest chain ring plus the difference between largest and smallest sprocket, as your running a single chainring you only have to use the cassette difference

something you will have to work out is spacing, whether it be with bb length, chainring spacers, which side of the spider the chainring goes or all three
try to line up the chainring in between gears 5 and 6 on your cassette, it will illuminate to much cross like GA2G mentioned
also chain guards are a real pain in the arse to clean around without taking the chainring and guard off
an old mech would do, or the equivalent which have already been suggested

atb

ive another one for you dj

nearly got swallowed by a hgv's on a A road saturday morning, tires were about 1-1 1/2 foot away from my handle bars, one wobble or a dreaded pot hole and i was a goner, if it wasn't for no traffic at the approaching roundabout (500 yards) i would of dragged the soab out of his cabin and my actions would of spoke louder than words.
was pass by 5-6 hgv's earlier on my ride who all left me a lanes width when over taking, getting much much better, so the word must be getting through finally

had a phone today but trying to memorize details of a hgv speeding past you at 50mph is extremely hard, even harder when your so angry your mind goes blank and the abuse is rolling of your tongue

its only so long before the dreaded happens at this rate :(

^ ratings are bollox, they are useless most of the time
YouTube- Various Sold Secure and Thatcham chains chopped.