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But to the trained eye, you look like a cunt? Discuss...
Well... hate to break it you chaps, but there are plenty of riders out there who think fixed gear riders look like a bunch of posing twats (not including me, I hasten to add). I ride FG if I want to spruce up my cadence, but I much prefer SS and ride this 90% of the time. Why? Coasting down big hills, undertaking an inch from the kerb without smashing a pedal (I know... but it's useful sometimes), I can go on longer rides on SS (a SS century is tough enough for me - I can't imagine it would be much fun on FG), maintenance simplicity, easy unweighting over speed bumps and hazards etc etc. Frankly I love it, and as a guy in my 40's I still get excited every time I get on my bike. Now if other people prefer FG, or a zillion gears all power to them... whatever gets you on your bike. Way I see it, if anybody thinks their cycling preference should be a universal law, then they probably ARE cunts. "To the trained eye..?", FFS...
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I'm currently on 48x18 freewheel (around 72gi), and although this is fine around town etc, on longer rides or training in Richmond Park it feels I'm mashing a bit and my knees are often just on the verge of discomfort. I'm well past my teenage years - do you older guys just build up a bit, or will dropping my GI (46x18 for 69gi?) open up a whole new world of sunshine for me? No macho nonsense please - I've had kids so don't need to prove anything... ;-)
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"a friend" tried these a while ago - ride like cr@p. A last resort if you really can't be arsed to fix the occasional flat - and you'd have to proper lazy - can't adjust tyre pressure either. Can recommend bonty hardcase 25c's - not a bad ride and 1 flat in 10 months, although will be switching to Carbon Krylions when they're back in the shops...
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OK... so I guess the next question is if I want to soup things up a bit without going crazy, what are people using... £40-ish? I'd be looking for solid and workmanlike rather than ultra-pimp... and sealed rather than serviceable. Sorry this is a bit of a numpty question, this is the first time I've had to change the BB on this bike...
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Funny, I was wondering the same last night. I think the standard way is to measure 12 links and you should be bang on 12" - comparing it against my 12" measuring stick confirmed this to be the case. If it's much over, it's time for a change. In any case, it's only a tenner, so why not go crazy and treat yourself?
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I love em, but you do need a shoe with plenty of space around the cleat area, a friend has a set, and the shoe he has has too much rubber around the cleat and is a real bugger to engage
+1... I had a to carve some sole away from around the cleat to get float and be able to unclip without breaking my knees. Took me a couple of weeks of knee-wrenching before sussing that one out - very happy with them now though.
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I picked up a pair of Shimano M075's for this very purpose - it seemed a good compromise for a shoe stiff enough for cycling but flexi enough to work around work in. I didn't want a trainer-type shoe, on account as they all look a bit crud to me. They're cheap (and look better after they've been worn in a bit...)
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Noticed a few posts recently re. folks losing their seats. If you take yourself off to Clerkenwell Screws and get yourself some security screws... possibly helps put off the scum walking around with a 5mm allen key? I've put a couple on my stem as well. You're never 100% bullet proof, but maybe a few quid well spent?
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My knees have been f@cking me right off ever since I went clipless a few months ago. Think I've finally sussed it now... probably a combination of saddle position and simply pushing too hard in the cold.
The guys in Brixton Cycles - all hail :-) - took one look at my position and said the saddle was too high - dropping 1cm and moving the saddle slightly forward has made the world of difference. Now make a point of getting up out of the saddle on hill climbs rather than pulling up with my knees. Also, carved some of my shoe sole away as this was preventing me getting the full float out of my Time Aliums. Somewhere in all that, things have sorted themselves out.
It's definitely worth taking the time to experiment and sort this out, it was kind of getting me down that even a 50-miler had me barely able to pedal with the pain.
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Regarding saddles, which of the following do you consider the most important? (please choose one)
- Aesthetics
- Comfort/ergonomics - Aerodynamics
- Lightness (in terms of weight)
- Strength/durability
- Ease of use
Q2: Again regarding saddles, please choose 2:
- Strong
- Cheap- Light
Q3: Please mark on the following scales how important you feel the saddle/seatpost attributes are in comparison to each other (mark '5' if you think they are equally important.
Mechanical/visual simplicity 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 Adjustability
Strength/durability 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 Lightness (in terms of weight)
Aesthetics 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 Sustainability/environmental issues
Traditional 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 Modern
**Comfort **1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9 Aerodynamics/streamliningQ4: Finally, is anyone else scared shitless of these?
I know no fear.Charge Spoon - all of the above :-)
- Aesthetics
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it could also be the grips on the shoes...
if i remember correctly, the instructions that came with my specialized shoes recommended cutting a couple of mm of rubber off the soles around the cleats if using time atacs.Yeah... I reckon it was half this - the retention "bars" on the pedal were tight against the edges of the sole so couldn't twist out easily. Also, maybe I'd overtightened the cleat (is this even possible?) so it was clamping against the sole - sticking a wedge in there gave it a bit more space.
Mmmmm... I'll have to remember to have this conversation with the missus - the language of love and all that...
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Just in case this helps anyone else... I posted a while ago about knee pain after fitting Time Aliums. Turns out they were effectively clamping my shoes so hard against the pedal I wasn't getting any float (one of the main reasons I went for ATACs) and making them hard to get out of.
I've now stuck a shim (made out of inner tube) between the shoe and the cleat and I haven't stopped grinning since... I guess it's something to do with the Shimano shoes I'm using, or maybe I'm just unlucky with this pair of pedals?
Anyway, I've read a few places about Time's being hard to get in/out of... maybe it's the same problem?
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Have you got pix of the wheels?