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Frame courtesy of Fixado. Just waiting on a BB the internet is taking forever to deliver.

sexy.
what bars?

I would say it makes a difference. If you connect the ends of a cable with the u-lock, you effectively only have one lock. If you connect the ends of a cable with a small padlock lock and have it go through your front wheel, saddle, frame, and then secure post, then you have two effective locks (along with the separate u-lock). of course, a cable is weak, but that makes the thief need two tools -- bolt cutters will not go through a higher end u-lock and leverage attacks will not work against the cable.

nothing is theft-proof; all one can do it make theft more difficult. and having two separate and different kinds of locking systems certainly makes things more difficult.

if an angle-grinder is used, then nothing is safe...but that is true with any other locking system.

I personally use a fahg mini u-lock, a kryponite cable and abus square padlock, pitlock instead of QR on front wheel. for extra security situations, I add a kryponite evo mini.

On a serious note, I'm waiting for those who hasn't gave me an answer to what the purpose of the nitto reverisble stem other than to flip the bar round.

the purpose is the option of having a positive or negative rise stem....not to flip your bars around like some dumbass. no different from flipping a threadless stem around. not exactly a difficult thing to comprehend.

Hey, I got some magnetic ball bearings and put em in my 5mm bolts.

Now I can't get em out, so I bought a very strong magnet - 16kg pull, and they still won't fucking budge. Only been in a few days and haven't gotten wet, sprayed with WD40, made no difference.

Any ideas?

I was thinking that the BBs would magnetize the bolts, making a magnet on the end of it useless :/

any luck yet?

I bought the S3 ones from this page, so would probably go for the S2 sized ones if I got them again.

thanks for the tip.

can they be picked out...or is a strong magnet required to remove them?

which ambrosio rims are those?

bumping this thread.

so, what size did you order? and what size did you try to fit them into?

I am considering ordering some magnets and I'm in the process of figuring out what sizes would be required.

I'd need a magnet to fit inside a 5mm and a 6mm bolt. any clues as to what size magnet I should go with?

use longer bolts to fasten the cages. they will hold the straps in place

this

check out Velo Orange rack, they're a bit pricey but really smart and go well with your Holdsworth;

http://www.velo-orange.com/racks.html

no.
the VO rack(s) simply are not strong -- sure, they have the look, but dont expect to carry much of anything. if you want the rando-look but not much else, go with VO.

there are better, more-functional options.

thank you.

I wish to replace the threaded headset on my bike...for purely aesthetic reasons.

The headset currently installed supposedly has a stack height of 38.5. The new headset I wish to install is either 37.5 or 33.3 depending on which I one I purchase.

I am assume I'll either need to add a spacer or two or cut a few millimeters off the fork, correct? it's not the other way around (meaning, the fork would be too short), right?

Just want to make sure -- I make dumb mistakes every so often.

the brake hole(s) may be different diameters or depths.

anyone happen to know what the fork rake is on the vigorelli?

Portland, the only American city that are probably more cycle-friendly than London.

you obviously havent spent much time in the states.

Portland is vastly overrated -- just a city that's poured alot of money into bicycle infrastructure and PR. Portland is also mostly just bicycle-related businesses and framebuilders...and lots of hippies that live green. Owning a car is still a consideration in Portland, despite all the hype. They still have a long way to go.

Chicago, NYC, and San Francisco are way more bike friendly (as far as commuting and living car-free) and easily up there with London.

what happened to the bob jackson?

...you bought the wrong exustars, then.

the ones that velosolo carries are quite excellent.

besides the need to have a 120 spaced frame coldset to 130, internal gear hubs like the alfine are compatible with track ends, right?

I'm interested in a review of these if you ever order them.

I wish pitlock were compatible, but until then, these would definitely be another security level.

phil wood made a miscalculation. the problem isnt removing lockrings, it's the hassle of using a chainwhip.

they should have just machined something like this to eliminate the chainwhip all together but included a hook at the end for removing lockrings: http://www.thebikebiz.com/J_A_Stein_Co_Un_Fixie_Wrench_p/trk-acc-stein01.htm

thanks for the info everyone.

I would just order from H Llyod -- he sells original decals and has several claud butler ones in stock, rather than trying to reproduce them.

how do these work? the bolts are just subtlety machined to only fit their tool, correct?

I suppose they're better than nothing, but a vice wrench could probably grip these, no?

http://www.hlloydcycles.com/ListFeb09html.htm

any thoughts/experiences with the shimano 600 / ultegra quill stem? I have never used one before (or the identical dura ace) but I am considering purchasing one to match my other shimano components -- just wondering if the hidden bolt system is reliable and if the stem is not likely to fail.

nothing wrong with slightly wider bars -- I usually go a bit wider over my shoulder width. more comfort, more room, more leverage, chest is not constructed so easier breathing.