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Bikes are going on ebay for way less than their true value imo.
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***Might ***cycle from Bournemouth to Lymington. It's only 17 miles (1 hour tops) vs 15 minutes to cycle to Bournemouth, 5 mins to get on train and 49(!) minutes on the train. Also there will be a 10 mph tailwind from Bournemouth to Lymington. Probably get the train back though.
Who's with me?
Price for 4 return tickets on the train £14 (total).
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SS can't keep up with gears.
Depends, emmeff still beats me on fixed except downhill.I got a 16t freewheel you could borrow if you can borrow the tool from someone to take it off my bike :P.
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that means not letting Adam go at the front then........
I don't understand?My fixed is not ready yet anyway, turns out a bought a chainring for a tandem... oops.
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Would be good if it doubled up as an iron.
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Apparently the European outbreak has been traced back to a shipment of white bicycle tyres imported into the UK sometime in 2008.
What say you ?
Shit, I almost bought white continentals! ;)Some people are taking this very seriously though:
http://cnnwire.blogs.cnn.com/2009/04/27/all-schools-closed-in-mexico-2/
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http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=site+wightlink.co.uk+bicycle
2nd result
(Dogs and bicycles are carried free on Wightlink ferries, providing an additional incentive for dog owners and cyclists to take a trip to the Isle of Wight).
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Free bump: I could use a 130mm BCD (47t, 3/32) if anyone has one.
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i'm now living just outside bournemouth now - don't have a bike yet and am still pretty weak (after accident involving a lorry in london last year) but when i do am stronger i'd be up for it!
Awesome, keep us posted. :) -
Primera every day.
Primera is way overpriced. Wiggle ftw, free sweeties! -
ta2, I have tried to not list sites which appear to be pulling in traffic by offering unreasonably low prices, then obviously showing that they have no stock. But thanks for looking. It all helps.
Original link is showing as discontinued. I think it's unreasonable to expect suppliers to have bikes in stock. Even wiggle lists most bikes as 5-7 days delivery. I have ordered something (a helmet) from that site today, which was listed in stock so I'll be able to see if they are one of these sites that lists everything so they show up on google products search.On the other hand, I ordered something from Parker International the other day, which was listed as in stock, paid for premium (£4) delivery, and it took them 5 working days to send it to me.
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Got any good links on this, genuinely interested but not heard this before.
http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cycling+cadence
Most if not all links will tell you that higher cadence is better, mainly because it is less tiring.
horses for courses.
jan ulrich and lance armstrong being a brilliant example.
Not quite true. Ulrich still had a high cadence compared to normal people, maybe 90 RPM? Armstrong is the other extreme, about 120 RPM which is too much for most people. Armstrong's high cadence is well documented, and many have attributed it to his success in climbing and the Tour in general.Obviously there's not a specific number for everyone, but It puts some weight into the argument that one of the biggest grinders of recent years still had a cadence above most of us. Ulrich has been hailed as one of the most naturally gifted cyclists of all time. Who is to say that he wouldn't have been better if he had trained for a higher cadence technique since the beginning of his career (you can't just switch).
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Actually there is an increasing body of research which supports the view that rather then force a high cadance you should find your natural pedalling speed and gear up to the point you feel comfortable.
I toodle along at 85 ish revs per minute no matter what gear I use so I have settled on 48:16 as comfortable to me.
I think it really is down to what you are happy with.Toodle pip
Higher cadence is better for long rides, it's a well known fact. You're using more of your muscles, moderate stress on quad and moderate stress on calf rather than high stress on calf and low stress on quad. Whilst this is slightly less efficient in terms of calories burnt to power output, you will find that it is beneficial because there is lactic acid buildup because you are not overstressing either set of muscles.That said, 85 RPM is a very good cadence. Anywhere between 80 and 100 is in the right range. 85 RPM x 70 gear inches is MUCH better than 70 RPM x 85 gear inches. By all means go for higher gear inches if you can keep your cadence in the right range.
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There seems to be an attitude of "I have more gear inches therefore my penis is bigger". Personally, I have a "nice" geared bike and fixed gear for commuting. Whilst the 64.9 gear inches I have on it is WAY too easy for me, I feel like I am improving as a cyclist by being able to maintain higher cadence all the time.
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New or used but good condition (no sharktoothing).
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Yeah, I was forced into fixed, too, by buying a wheelset that was fixed/fixed.
You can put a freewheel on a fixed thread. Even though the thread doesnt go all the way through the freewheel, it's still EASILY strong enough because a freewheel has so little torque compared to a fixed cog. -
There are plans for a central database - which will store just about everything about you even, your sexual habits (confirmed to be on the 2011 census).
You are owned by the state, bitch, now which pipe do you stick it in, we need to fucking know, do you want to end up in court ?
:)
It's so fucking bad, it's actually funny, what a bunch of cunts.
Thought you were bullshitting so I googled it."Fuck you very much"
P.S. Source is Daily Fail so actually probably not true...
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I began to get worried I had got my dimensions wrong
Don't you mean they? If that's the case then tell them you want the frame rebuilt to the correct specification. By remeasuring you and telling you a different size, they admited measuring you wrong in the first place.Don't ask them for compensation for your time spent. Don't ask them for a reduction in price for a wrongly sized frame. Their frames are all lugged (right?) so it's not even that big of a deal for them to redo it. They've probably got loads of time on their hands due to the recession anyway.
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Im not saying its a good idea, but was reading a bit of sheldon the other day and he writes that the back brake is pretty much redundant in terms of stopping force with a distance 2x that of the front brake. the front is at optimum stopping power when the back wheel is at the point of almost lifting off the ground with minimal traction. The back brake comes in to effect as a stopping force for times when it would induce a front wheel skid such as wet or icey conditions. mainly as you cant recover from front skids. so i suppose for the fair weather cyclist the only front brake option could be argued as sufficient. Also raises the no brake fixed question as most argue the front brake serves as use in the wet or times when rear wheel skid traction is low... im not ready to ditch mine, but its interesting that even in the dry you are accepting the fact that your brake distance is at least double from not riding a front brake.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
Using a rear brake only is almost pointless. Unless I'm going downhill, in which case it is a lot easier for the rear to lift of the ground, I only ever use my front brake. Modern caliper brakes are powerful enough to cause a skidding stop using just 1 brake.
Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time
Many cyclists shy away from using the front brake, due to fear of flying over the handlebars. This does happen, but mainly to people who have not learned to modulate the front brake.
If you're stupid enough to use a short pull brake (dual pivot caliper) with a long pull lever (almost all MTB style levers) then you may have this problem.
http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#brakelever
Paradoxically, the lever will feel very solid, the brake will engage with a very short amount of lever travel...but won't actually be squeezing very hard on the rim.
Your stopping power should be limited to how much grip your tyres have on the road. A single front OR rear brake should be good enough for this, on 700c wheels, which have an extraordinary amount of pressure on the road surface due to their low surface area.
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Put a ruler on top of the flat bit on the drops and measure from there to the top of the flat bit of the bars.
LFGSS
London Fixed Gear and Single-Speed is a community of predominantly fixed gear and single-speed cyclists in and around London, UK.
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