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If you're going to splash out £150 on a hub, you might as well run the sprockets at 10-speed pitch, get 7 of them on there and use modern shifters. That way, you could use the spidered-together big sprockets off a modern cassette (e.g. CS-6700), which is also cheaper than the custom-spaced Grand Bois 6-speed.
Any options for this? I wondered if it could be done with a hope pro3 hub shell, single speed freehub body and a custom axle but I'd rather buy off the shelf.
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Oh and not strictly risers but felt I had to post anyway.
http://8tracks.imgix.net/i/001/118/236/66460.original-4357.jpg%3Ffm%3Djpg%26q%3D65%26w%3D1024%26h%3D1024%26fit%3Dmax -
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Just to reiterate Punkture, our frames are made from the same guys in Taiwan that supply for Surly and Cooper. I have mentioned this a few times in the past but you must have missed this, so before you state something which might defame a genuine company make sure you know what you are talking about.
I thought you'd moved production though now, to a cheaper supplier?
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Nice build. Take it you went for a longer BB in the end? I ran bolt on fixed with my Pometamine for two years with Impacts. Think I had to go 122mm to get the chain line bang on though. Only really nice cranks I could find in 110 bcd were Middleburn or these Sugino Mighty Tour which would have been perfect but they're super hard to get hold of and pretty spendy too. Gone single speed now, so I've moved over to Hollowtech 2 with a 6600 chainset.
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the wheels are syncros 25mm wide tubeless rims, dt revo, wtb laser lite hubs. Got them cheap from the finnish fixie forums. Kind of temporary solution as I dont have the cash to get my dream setup (nor know what that would actually be).
No idea of the weight. There is still some parts I want to change; for example the pedals are 420g/pair and I wanna go eggbeaters, changing the disc rotors to kcnc razors, which are 73grams a piece, so about 60g-70 saved there as well. Gonna check the weight when it is done :-)
Sounds pretty good for a temporary set of wheels. I'm currently trying to figure out what my best options are for my next set of wheels. It's between Stan's ZTR Arch EX (which I can get trade) and H+Son Archytypes (which I 'm working on getting at trade), for rims and Hope or DT Swiss 240s for hubs. Again it'll probably come down to what I can get at trade.
What brakes are you running?
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Like Ed already said, ain't you just being a touch racist? It's just total nonsense that products made in China are automatically worse than products made anywhere else. Stuff made in China is of excellent quality if a company wants it to, just the same as stuff made in the US could be of top notch quality or a bag of shit. People, understandably, want things they use made in their native country but does it really have anything to do with where they are made?
Your claim of things made in Taiwan are potentially better quality than China is unfounded. Any facts from your industrial expert pals you want to share?
I am Chinese and I am insulted.
I believe last years Foffa Ones were made in Taiwan and they were actually pretty decent bikes believe it or not. The finish and welding on the frames was really good. The 2014 bikes are I belive being made in China and the quality has dropped significantly to say the least. Maybe it is on this that Dani has based his opinions? I can't help but think that if he'd ever looked at an H+Son rim (which to be fair I didn't know were made in China until yesterday) and compared it to his own, he might think differently.
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Progress has been a bit slow over Christmas/New Year but things are moving again now. Fitted the framework that will support the work benches and work stand and started to get some plasterboard on the walls.
With hindsight I should have fitted a batten to screw the bottom of the boards to as the insulation's causing them to bulge a bit but hey, it's a workshop, I'll live with it.
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I'm running a Hope SS rear hub with a Shiano 6600 chainset on my Pompetamine. Running the chainring on the outside gives me a 45mm chainline. Don't know how that compares with the SRAM Red. To get perfect chainline I've had to fit the sprocket right on the inside of the cassette. It's a wide foot sprocket mind.
Also worth noting the dropout/disc mount on the Pompetamine is a bit of a design fail. You should be okay with a 160mm rotor but if you want to run the wheel right back in the drops, you migh have to go up to a 180mm, as the seatstay can get in the way of the caliper.