-
-
-
-
-
It would never work as a product i think. People would fuck up the frame by using too long bolts or strip the threads.
I think this will be great with some nice looking nuts.There are already great adapters out there. This specific adapter is just for those niche people wanting something that matches my cages and needs mega low stack
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
We will continue to the very end then.
Yesterday's battle of internal cable routing paid off, although I am finding dropletts of blood around the workshop from frantically looking for bandaids yesterday.
Anyways, I managed a rattle free internal stainless tube despite the long blind bosses taking up most of the tube. It's going to look so sick with the cable routing. Photos of it tomorrow.Hugo's frame getting there. I am very pleased with it so far. Here pictured with 29x2.0" tires although 48mm is actually max.
-
-
-
-
-
Yes. But I think T47 is pointless if you are using Shimano.
For internal cable routing through the BB shell and short chainstays with big tyres yes. But I am not convinced I want or need those. Also the added weight is meh. I did talk to the client about the options but they understood my concerns.Chainstays ended up being 430mm I think. And that's not idiotic on 700x48 mm tyres.
-
Let's see if I can do it. But it should be realistic. All the hard bits are done. Biggest issue is the 2x chain set vs 68mm BB vs 48mm tyres situation. But I think I got it sorted.
CS dimpling was a new attempt using the quill stop on the pillar drill. It work great, so my new iteration I will make a hard limit for my hydraulic press and make a stop for repeatable action.
-
Day two of this gravel build. Plans is to be able to do it in five days. It's looking very promising as I have made good progress. Only had from 9am-2pm this last couple of days. So pretty happy about being able to braze Monday when I have done the seat tube fish mouths, wishbone prep and bottle bosses.
-
-
-
Here pictured with 52mm tyres.
The dropouts cried out for assymetric chainstays. This can be a bit tricky with short tapered Life chainstays as I like doing my fish mouth details on the chainstay to dropout transition. Normally you can just fill with brass but the cavity is bit big on the non-drive side so decided to do a scallop with some tubing like you do on seat stays. Very happy with how that came out. Still need some sanding but you get the idea
These if they are not too tall