Search results for:

Adjusted the straddle cable height this morning and really cranked down on the bolts. Probably could’ve gone a touch lower, but the cable doesn’t seem to slip anymore.

Blue Lug just posted this on Instagram. Same brakes. The straddle cable is quite low.

@ibob Ah thanks!

I might play around with it. See if I can drop the straddle hanger down a bit, particularly on the front.

@M_V Yeah, can’t get it much tighter. But I’ll try again.

One issue I have is with the brakes. The cable from the lever goes into the straddle hanger and is tightened by a bolt, but if I pull on brake lever too hard, the cable slips up. I tried to do the routing slightly different with the included washers, but the cable can’t fit through the hole it’s supposed to go through.

Currently it’s bolt > cable > washers.

Some “proper” photos.

Final piece of the puzzle arrived today.

Cleaned and degreased the rims and installed these. Such an improvement over the stock Dia Compe pads.

Also installed a bell. Nothing left to do now except make a sticker for the chainstay (and clean and repack the hubs)

I was going to black them out but I think it looks good.

The pseudo gothic nu metal Holy Roller logos will be blacked out though.

Thanks! It’s fun and keeps me occupied.

Yes.

But I don’t have a denim shirt anymore. I can wear a denim jacket?

Kuwahara Klunker.

Done!

The brake pads are terrible. Kool Stops ordered today. Everything else is fine. Rides quite strange, but in saying that, 96% of my riding is on an electric long tail cargo bike.

Other idea I had was this mudguard that was a giveaway in the bike lock up at work.

With some tweaking and bodging I think I can make it fit. I flipped the stays around and it almost fits perfectly. I do like how it has such solid stays. Good for keeping little feet out of wheels. It’s also got a dynamo light attached. I wonder if I could rig up something from a battery? I have no idea.

Now that this is pretty much finished, time to start working on this.

Thinking of cutting up this Yepp adapter to attach the skateboard deck to the frame. It clamps on and I could use the truck holes to bolt the deck on (with some drilling).

Thanks!

It’s done!*

The 117.5mm bottom bracket with a 2mm (I think?) cassette spacer on the drive side gives me enough clearance with the chain and tyre. It still shifts fine between the big and little rings.

Replaced the cassette with a brand new 11-34t 8 speed that I got from a friend. Somehow moving the crank outward a few mm allowed me run a bigger cassette with no issues.

Grips on, saddle height adjusted, rear brake installed. Everything went pretty smoothly.

I haven’t taken it for a ride yet, hopefully tomorrow.

I’d also like to get non-garage photos.

*just need to trim the cables and adjust the rear brake. The brake pads are rubbish as well, I need to replace them asap. Also, the saddle is slightly crooked in the photos. That’s been fixed.

A friend just dropped this off for the top. He works for the council and this was left at the city skatepark. Looks barely ridden. Nice and wide too. He also gave me details of another friend that might be able to weld a chainstay bridge in.

I’m going to buy something like this and stick it on the deck from the front truck holes to almost the top graphic.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-400-x-500-x-6mm-adhesive-rubber-mat_p4000015

Finally unboxed this. Glad I did. The rear brake has the booster / adjuster on it to run 700c. I wanted to run a 26” wheel on this, and now I can because the canti posts are for 26”. It also fits a big tyre (this is 26x2.4”), I don’t think I’ll have any problems with the tyre and mudguard I want to use.

My only concern is actually attaching it to the frame. It has this bracket that clamps on the chain stays, but it looks like it’s missing a part. Also, the Gary Fisher has a weird chain catcher welded on the bottom of it. I guess I can botch something up. I hope. I do have two other frames though.

Edit: it’s not missing a part, but(!) the Gary Fisher doesn’t have a chainstay bridge.

Yeah, I might try the 118mm one this weekend if I get a chance.

That chainline is small chainring / big cog though. So it’s more than rideable right now. Not sure when I’m going to run 24x32 😅

Briefly sat on it last night. It fits!

All that is left is to adjust and tighten saddle, install grips, adjust and tighten shifters and brake levers and connect the rear brake. And wait for it to stop raining.

It’s only taken 6 months to get here.

I’ll also upgrade the brake pads to Kool Stop salmon (I need to do the same on the Albini as well).

So, so so close!

Rear tyre installed. Chain and tyre clearance is very tight. Might have to look at a wider BB after all.

Whole thing is looking pretty tough. Wish I could’ve finished it today, but dad life takes priority.

Let’s see if this video works.

Flawless shifting between the two rings. 40t big ring, 24t small ring.

EDIT: video didn’t work so here’s a low-res gif. Sorry for crappy angle, phone was wedged in the bottle cage. 😅

It works!

I used both sets of spacers and 2mm just allows the chain to clear the crank, but it shifts between the big and little ring flawlessly. 3mm spacers would probably be perfect, and if I can find some easily enough (or chuck them in with another order), or a cheap substitute, I’ll swap them out. It also moved the granny gear bolts away from the chainstay as well, which was a plus.

But I’m happy. All I need to do is cable up the rear brake, install rim tape and the tyre on the rear, install grips and adjust the levers and shifters.

EDIT: I tried so hard to get a photo, but it’s too hard.

Love vintage MTB with the Sim Works bars. It makes so much sense. Both of mine have different ones and I love them.

Spacers arrived.

I think I have all the parts. Hopefully if I have an early night with my daughter I’ll get something done. I’d really like to see if reducing the spacers will make FD and crankset play nice.

https://fattireflyer.com/2023/06/18/bicycling-january-1979-clunkers-among-the-hills/