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yeah there is a stem that goes on top of the steerer tube. So the bars are right on top of the stem, if you get me. It's a-head and i think its a jump stem. I'll take a quick look........

it might look a little odd though!!..

Cheers De Selby, i wasn't sure wether or not that would be the case so thanks for clearing up!!

And thanks littigator, but definately had it measured at 24tpi, cos i remember him telling me how lucky i was that it was 24tpi!!

Just got a miche rear cog to fit the track hub i have, and a sugino chainring. I've fitted the rear cog and had a quick eyeball down the chainline holding the crank, with chainring attched, against the bb and it looks close enough to be workable with the right BB. I've done a load of measuring too and it should all work out in theory!!!!!!

Interesting. It has worksop on the head tube badge.

Even the guy in the shop was surprised it was a 24tpi thread. Especially when i told him the date, which i worked out to be around '74'. As he explained, carlton used 24tpi before raleigh came around and changed it, bust most carltons had 24tpi pre '70's. I dont know if this is fact though.

I even wondered if it has been re threaded, as i here it is possible, although it leaves the threads slightly weaker.

I had a measure today and the chainline at the rear works out to be 42mm. Is there a way to work out what BB axle you should need, in theory, if you have the cranks and chainrings etc?

I'm wondering if the miche primato BB would be any cop, because i have read that it is adjustable laterally. Am i better off going for a cartridge BB or cups with ball bearing and axle. Or does it make no odds!!!

This bottom bracket shell is now the only thing i am not understanding. I've had the threads checked and they are not 26tpi that raleigh used but, they are 24tpi which was used when carlton was their own company.

All i am unsure of now is what BB to fit. A carlton corsa frame with 120 rear spacing and miche primato track hub (42mm chainline) and sugino messenger cranks. Stated length to use was a 103mm axle.

Being a 71mm BB shell, what approach do i take?!! I can work out everything else with chainline, just not sure which BB will give me the best adjustment. English threads by the way. (sorry if thas obvious)

Once i got this cleared up it's the home straight i think!!!

Don't you measure from outside face to outside face then to get BB shell width?!?

cool, appreciate the measuring!! I could only find 42mm too so thats good!!!

Can anyone confirm the chainline a miche primato hub should give. I've read 45mm on here somewhere before i think?!!

Luckily, the BB thread was in good nick, and also wasn't raleighs own thread.

The BB shell measures 71mm though on a vernier caliper. I'm not sure what to do now.

The sugino mesenger crank I have works with a 103mm axle apparently, but i'm not sure what shell size to get hold of. Do i need to get it refaced?!

I'd feel bad naming them, but it was interesting to see the looks i got when i mentioned fixed. I'd liken it to the looks you'd get saying the C word in church.

Sorry Chris I did confuse the two but did mean chaintugs!!

Shorter cranks for sure, and narrow pedals I guess.

Bridgwater. I'm not hating the guy, because everything else he told me about carlton was very interesting. It's actually a good shop. On BB heightt, if it's low, theres not a lot you can do is there?

Thanks for the replies. I actually felt like a bit of a goon when they told me i couldn't go fixed unless i had the rear dropouts changed to track dropouts, and then told that "you'll have to bring it in mate so we can sort it out for you"!!!! I tried to gently suggest that the horizontal dropouts were more than ample to get good chain tension, but then told i would "forever be tighening the bolts up cos you cant have chain tensioners"

yeah i knew i could run fixed. I only went in to get them the check the bb thread size!!! They all started talking down at me when i mentioned "fixed" !!!

My local bike shop just shop just told me i cant run fixed because i dont have rear track drop outs. My cartlon has long horizontal drop outs though, so whats the deal!!!?!! Are chain tugs essential?

Ok last post from me here, but i just found this quote,

"With any design aspect it is best not to go to extremes, the 10 5/8 inch (27 cm.) bottom bracket height or 2 ¾ (7 cm.) drop was where I built most of my frames, and is still a good average."

Found it at: http://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/2007/02/bottom-bracket-height.html

Some interesting info there if any one was interested still!!

Cheers all

paul

So i know i'm relying on tyres to gain some height, but they dont state the size once inflated, as in the overall diameter do they?!?! I need summet deepish

Man i even annoy myself when i dont search properly!! But thanks for the info and the link. I'm off to make marzipan boobs, don't worry, shouldn't need a link for that one!...

Is there a standard height from the floor to the centre of bottom bracket? Mine seems mighty low at the moment and i'm thinking i've made a bade choice in wheel size selection.

At current i not chosen tyres, so the bike is sitting on its rims and the centre of the bb is 235mm. I'd be running 165mm cranks.

If i've made a boob, there'll be a pair of 700c mavic opens, laced on miche deep flange, 3x on back, 1x on front up for sale!!!!!!

Cheers

Paul

posted somewhere else, but my mate put some grips on his bmx using the condensation method. Went out straight away. I was following him on my bike, and as he went to jump off a little ledge, both grips slipped off in rather spectacular fashion. The sound of them popping off and his "ohhhh shiiiiiiiiiit" still make me laugh. He was fine.

Another mate managed to land from quite a height, his balls and the top tube being the first things to contact. A teste got pushed up into his gut area, and had to be put back into his sack surgically. He was fine too.

My worst crash was when i was a kid and my dad was giving me a crossbar home from school (sitting on the the toptube!!) Just as we were coming up to a dropped kerb, he told me to hang on, I tensed up, and accidently stuck my foot in the wheel. Course, the front wheel came to a complete stop, and threw me and my dad over the bars, clearing the pavement, and landing in the front garden. His front wheel was pringled!!! Gutted because that old orbit frame would be sweet now, but he's just given it to a good friend!!!

my mate put his grips on by breathing into them to get a bit of condensation in them. They slipped on great. Later he tried a wheelie and they slipped off great. I was behind him on my bike at the time. Quite funny to see someone flying off the back of their bike, hands up in the air, each with a bar grip in hand!!!

yeh rattle cans are expensive!!

Just finished mine with rattle cans. Heres a breakdown of what it cost me.

nitromors can £4.90
wire cup (drill mounted) £4
Two cans primer £8
Two cans colour £10
One can clearcoat £5

I got 3 primer coats out of those cans, laid on pretty heavy (no runs though!) Then i got about the same in colour coats. Then two top coats laid up pretty heavy as well. I got pleasently good results.

My spray pattern was the bottom bracket first, then rear stays and seat stays. Then up to the lugs at the top of the seat post, and at the head tube, then just the top tube, seat tube and the down tube.

Rattle cans do get a rep for being soft, but you really need to leave the paint/top coat for at least two weeks to go fully hard, before building up again. If your gonna polish with a compound, definatley let it set up nice and hard in a warm room, or you'll 'crease' it.

Also don't try to get every last bit of paint out of the can on the colour coats because the air pressure is dropping in those cans all the time you are spraying, and you'll start to get spattering towards the end, which on your last coat, can really bodge things up.

I definately dont claim to be a good sprayer, but i have done a fair bit, and know a bit about the processes. Like anything, if you take your time, be methodical, and plan the job in hand, you should get a pretty sweet result.

No comparison to powercoat though...

is the pickup cavity earthed/screened?

nice one boys!!! very handy!!!

ah cheers guys,

i dont have this set up, yet, so the noise issues were just what i read from other people!! But i'm sure if it's set up right there should be no issues. Does it have to be a messenger ring?