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You are looking at a teny rim.
the one in the pic is a 26" (the biggest they do) with a 26x1" slick
front wheel is easy enuf,
back wheel: get a 26" front with a 6 bolt disk mount, and a 9mm quick release, swap it out for m10 solid axel, and fit one of these
I'm sure youve all seen them, i got one, its solid, hell of a lot better than screwing on cogs. you might need short cranks cos 2 26s will drop your BB.
...and here's where you buy them at $80 a pair
you might have to do the man a deal to get 1 or odd wheels
DELAPHONICS
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You are looking at a teny rim.
the one in the pic is a 26" (the biggest they do) with a 26x1" slick
front wheel is easy enuf,
back wheel: get a 26" front with a 6 bolt disk mount, and a 9mm quick release, swap it out for m10 solid axel, and fit one of these
I'm sure youve all seen them, i got one, its solid, hell of a lot better than screwing on cogs. you might need short cranks cos 2 26s will drop your BB.
...and here's where you buy them at $80 a pair
you might have to do the man a deal to get 1 or odd wheels
DELAPHONICS
-
hey there.
Im thinking of selling this Frame
its a 1978 Alan Shorter time trial frame (No 62) that has had track ends professionally fitted. No braze ons, Its got the aggressive TT geometry and a short rake so it ride just like a track frame.
The same bike Alf Engers used.
Its got Columbus tubing, beautifully finished lugwork. no dents.
oh yeah its 60 cm c-t, 58 c-c.
If its your style let us know/make an offer.
go for it, get torchin, i put track end on my old road bike. but a word of warning; cos road drops hang below your chain stays and those track ends are in line with them your back wheel will move higher into the frame, what i mean is, your might have clearance issues with your bridge, and it drops your BB too. anyways what have got to loss but a dead road frame?