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Other way round isn't it? 2x DS (one being the potential chain guide), 1x NDS.

Yes.

Absolutely gutted that this seems to be the end of times.

Haven’t read every page but have spotted a few people trying to convince @Velocio to go back on closing the forum and that’s not really kosher in my book.

I’d guess that the amount of time Velocio has put into reading and understanding the legislation is an order of magnitude more than any of us have and if that’s the decision, as absolutely heartbreaking as it is, I support it.

It does looks similar to the sonder one, but i prefer the plain look of the kasai

Thanks!

Did you end up using the dmr bolt i sold you a while back for anything?

Yeah I like that it’s just completely plain black.

Not yet, but I will. I was after it for the bb shell, bearings and the bit of the swings that wraps around that stuff to make the pivot so I have harvested that out of it and I think I’m going to build a full sus bmx with it. Getting a suitable fork is proving difficult though.

I just put a Kasai boost dynamo on my Spa Rove.

I've had a few dynamo hubs over the years, never done any maintenance on any of them so user servicability doesn't worry me too much!

Suspect the Kasai and the Sonder are exactly the same hub, wouldn't be surprised if the only differences to the SP were cosmetic too.

I really don’t get why people lay out custom frame money (custom fork money is even more as fork parts are considerably more expensive than frame parts) then be like, “That cheapest possible finish that they put on garden gates, that has no anti corrosive properties at all, that’s what I want”?!

I snatched a load of stuff up this morning when I was leaving for work so currently got a non tubeless tyre and tube sitting on it to press the tape down. Given it’s a non tubeless tire and a hookless rim it’s sat at the farthest end of the workshop incase it pops!

They’re pretty good. Could be a touch more upswept but so far I’m enjoying them.

Just built a wheel with a hookless rim and need to set up the tyre on it tomorrow. I’ll be doing it at work so I can use the airline which will hopefully make things go easier.

I’d normally pop a tyre on with a tube first to a) press the rim tape down and b) get one bead seated but this time I want to transfer a tyre and it’s sealant from another wheel. Should I stick a different tire and rubber on first to press the tape down or just press it down as much as I can by hand? Can you even put a tube on a hookless rim?

It’s a solution. Is it the correct solution…?

How do I reset the limit screws?

You’ve already got the cable detached right? Back the limiters right out to the point where the chain drops off the wee end of the cassette and if you push it up to the other end it’ll go into the spokes then do them up till they are preventing that.

Limit screws?

Could also just be cacked up if it’s previously been used mostly at the top of the block and hasn’t been shifted down to the wee end much/at all.

Yeah sadly, gone are the days off the £10 Vittoria Zaffiro Slicks.

Tub wheels would mean you could use Tufo tyres which are a) cheaper than Vittoria pista clinchers and b) long lasting.

As @EcuriePeril says, tyres are definitely worth spending from the pov of safety and also they’ll make a good difference to how the bike feels to ride.

I’ll probably go for spraying it, ‘tis a big bag so would likely need to be in the sink or bath to soak it!

Cheers.

I have a Carradice City Folder or whatever the Brommy one is that keeps getting mouldy when it sits unused for a while. I store it in my spare room which isn’t the driest room in our flat but it’s not exactly damp either. My other Carradice, a much more regularly used Nelson is kept in the same room and never gets mouldy but it is pretty heavily waxed. Think I’ll wax the mouldy one but is there anything in particular I need to do to remove the mould before hand? Think I just brushed it off last time I noticed it’d happened.

Hey, pretty much anything that the tyre manufacturer says is for velodrome use.

Do not pay attention to what a retailer, especially velodrome shop, tell you is suitable!

I’m presuming we are talking clinchers so off the top of my head you’ll be looking at Conti GP SuperSonics, Vittoria Pista, Challenger Pista. None of which are particularly cheap unfortunately and keep the receipt if you buy Vittorias as there’s been a few batches that have cracked and delaminated pretty quickly but they seem to be decent about warrantying them.

We have a load of one side of Look pedals at work as we always seem to break one particular side, I just can’t remember which.

Message me on Friday during to remind me to look?

If we have good lefts I’d be happy to send you one for postage.

Have you (or the lbs) tried with the tool in a vice?

Boost hub will likely be a different shell as the disc mount needs to be in a different position.

You can make a non boost hub boost by adding a spacer, you'd need an inverse spacer to go boost to non boost.

Incredibly saddened to read this.

Hayley’s was definitely the most interesting brief I’ve ever worked to and though we never met in person, talking and working with her was always a pleasure.

RIP Hayley.

incredibly fast way to scan a roll.

This certainly seems like it's usp.

I use lightroom (which is easy to get for free).

It's slightly annoying that once you're inverted everything works backwards but I can live with that for free!

Has been happening in the uk since forever surely.

I remember when I worked at Asda like what, twenty years ago (fuck me, I’m old) there was a regular customer who had a sort of tastefully done drift/boyracer style car. It’d regularly be sporting some sort of damage just after the weekend but would always be fixed up by the end of the week ready for, I presumed another meet/race somewhere.

That’s a lot of money for basically an automated version of what I do and (excluding the enlarger I’m using as a copy stand) mine cost me like £25.

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