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£70, will you post to Manchester?

Looks like a lot of people use 107mm: http://www.londonfgss.com/thread3372-4.html

So er...a 99mm BB?....... :S

Edit, just had a thought. It'll be a JIS cranks, so installing on a ISO taper BB spindle will mean it'll sit further in. According to Sheldon 4.5mm further in.

cool, that prob means a 103mm iso bb then, giving me a theoretical 41.5mm chainline?

bloody hell, it's all a bit of a faff isn't it?! maybe the road crank option is more bother than it's worth. if i got the miche advanced cranks i'd have to try and avoid the miche bb as all i'm reading is problems with it.

This is dependant on the hubs you are using.

gran compe 120mm, that should be 42mm chainline right?

right, so the DA roads are an option really then?

according to sheldon brown a typical road double gives 41mm for the inner and 46mm for the outer. if track chainline is generally 42mm i would need a bb with a spindle 8mm shorter than that i would need with track cranks. what is the standard bb spindle length for track, or does it vary dependent on the track cranks used?

sorry all paid for and posted and that

Anyone got a dremel/angle grinder i can borrow to remove the braze ons from an old road frame i've got?

also anyone stripped a frame using nitromors before? worth the bother or just send it for shot/sand/whatever blasting?

Road cranks are designed to sit further out from the BB shell, to accomodate the inner chainring/s.

You would need a smaller spindle than the Track Dura Ace cranks use.

Sheldon has a large database of chainlines with different cranks. I would work out which BB spindle length will give the road DA cranks a chainline of 42mm (most likely what your will be).

also, the dura ace road cranks are hollow. they are no good for fixed gear, especially if u plan to ride on the street. they WILL snap or crack at some point. It's also very difficult to get a straight chainline with the octalink bb type crank arms. the bb's dont come in many sizes, there is a fixed version of the dura ace bb but its about £60 i think. basically dont get thre road cranks!

You're much better off with the old type Dura ace square taper track cranks, which will give you a wide choice of BB's, plus depending on your choice you could always change to Sugino or Campag even.

great, exactly the kind of info i was looking for. thought the road cranks would need a different spindle but wasn't aware of the issue with the hollow cranks. thanks for all your help.

gotta work out whether to throw 150 on the square taper DA track chainset or opt for the less expensive miche/dia compe ones.

Just looking for a bit of advice regards cranks, a little bit confused about some things.

I'm riding a Dolan ally track frame, first proper track frame after a series of conversions. Currently improving the parts i have on it and looking at cranks and replacing the rear hub.

The rear hub is gonna be a gran compe, so have 120mm spacing, the bb is currently some shimano thing, possibly a UN33 and the cranks are shitty mtb cranks with a 45t chain ring.

I'm a little confused by dura ace cranks, i know the 7600 is 144bcd square taper and the 7710 is 144bcd and octalink splined. these are pretty expensive and the cheapest i've found them is the 7600s for ~150 with chain ring {parker}.

my main question is how different are these from the equivalent dura ace double road cranks, 7400 and 7700 ? I was told the main difference is the bcd {road are 130} and the small lip behind the spider to accommodate the second chain ring. How correct is this estimation?

If i was to get a road version, as they're much cheaper than the track one [second hand], how easy is it to get a good 42mm chainline? would it be a case of getting a bb with the same spindle length as i would for the track one or will the road one move more or less further along the bb spindle and so require me to get a bb of a different length?

alternatively i've been looking at the miche primato advanced chainset or the dia compe gran compe track chainset, anyone any experience with these, in particular the dia compe one?

thanks for any help in advance

i'll have the fort ones, just what i'm after

why dont you get a bmx stem that is compatible with your current forks ?

a quill bmx stem? wasn't aware of those.

the rake on my current forks is pretty big so i was hoping to change to straight forks, figured i try and get threadless if i can that way parts i get are more interchangeable with my other bike.

i think i may be able to use threaded forks so long as the steerer is 250mm long. depends on whether my estimations of the amount of room i need are accurate.

can anyone confirm this for me, do i need the length of the head tube, plus stem stack height plus headset space, or am i missing something?

Hey,
have done quite a few searches that's thrown up a couple of things but nothing exactly what i was after.

I'm looking for 1" threadless forks. So far i'm aware that the Bianchi Pista has them as stock and some Colnago Precisa forks are 1" threadless. Preferably i'd like them to be straight.

Anyone aware of any other forks that match what i'm looking for or even better anyone got any to sell?

Are the Bianchi Pista ones any good or am i best avoiding them?

I'm aware i could use threaded ones with a long steerer so that the stem clamps underneath the thread but unsure how much room i need. Is it effectively the headtube length plus stem stack height plus a bit more for the headset?

It's to set up a pub bike but trying to make it so i can play about with tricks on it too. Frame currently has some 1" threaded forks on and i wanna swap them to threadless so i can use a 1"mini BMX stem, standard BMX stem with a shim or a short ahead stem like that stubby Thomson X4.

If anyone has a better alternative i haven't thought of i'd be interested.

Cheers

ps meant to say, 700c and without the whole mud guard spacing thing. bit specific i know

Could have been him. I asked him if he was riding that Sunday night and he asked what it was. So i don't know! Think they were narrow risers, didn't take much notice

prob wasn't rich if he didn't know what it was as he's one of the organisers....

A dude this am on a purple frame, red and blue deep vee's. rode with knee's pointing out to the sides. Medlock St.

definitely red deep vee? richie (ride it sunday) runs a purple frame with two blue deep vees, pink tyre on the front, narrow risers

I'm out this week sadly. My entire weekend was a vodka soaked mess so I can't make it. Have fun!

.......PUSSY'OLE

not that i made it either, managed to meet liam and joe for a pint in common afterwards though

anyone know what the stem in that picture is? i like it alot

not for me i'm afraid, too much work on, would be able to do the ride but the temptation of boozing afterwards is too great. roll on end of semester next friday

you can get a 22.2mm acor one with microadjust from greyville and shim it up, i did.

has a ropey acor logo on but it buffs off with a bit of elbow grease. you can gen pick up bmx posts around the 22mm mark that'll be micro adjust. shimming works fine

i'm gonna try and get the polo bike i got planned done for then.

gonna build a diy mallet too i reckon, bit of a xmas project!

i'll have one too, black medium as well, might not make sb friday though, too much uni work to get through, maybe sb on the 20th?

sounds like clodge, one of the messengers. normally wandering round GBH/Evans/Harry's when not got any jobs on.

@als - you get that lever???

i managed to ride into a motorbike last night... oops

yeah dude got the lever thanks,nice one for that. left your beers with James at Harry's.

not done too much damage i hope?

cheers craig, sent you a pm

after a reverse/time trial brake lever if anyone has one and a black front brake caliper. bought one the other day but it's not long enough to get through my forks (pretty deep carbon jobbies)

just finishing up my pug build, had similar issues with the seatpost, had the original one from the frame but it was fairly short and knackered. managed to find this site which does a 22.2mm acor microadjust bmx one that is just right when shimmed up a bit.

http://www.greyville.com/products/3871

the acor logo'll polish off nicely with a bit of elbow grease too

cool, thanks for the headsup, just bought a 45t.